PDA

View Full Version : Discovery I Brake Job



bblake12
11-06-2006, 08:27 PM
I am tempted to replace the front and rear rotors on my 1997 Discovery. This might seem simple to some of you but I am not a mechanic and I am a little unsure but it appears to be pretty straightforward. I have replaced the pads once but not the rotors.

A couple of questions -

1. Is this an afternoon job for a first timer ?
2. Other than socket wrenches, are there any specialized tools I need ?
3. I know that one of my front calipers is possibly seized, should I attempt a rebuild or replace ?
4. Does anyone have any photo's of this type of job ?
5. I have a 1997 Disco with the advanced evap system if that makes a difference

Any information would be appreciated

Bryan Blake

Mike Koch
11-07-2006, 08:29 AM
Greetings,

Good questions!

First, you'll need a hub nut tool(2 1/16" socket). Rovers North sells this under part number RNF406.
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/medium/RNF406.jpg
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6608-hub-nut-tool-2-116-stamped-steel.aspx (http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/../store/p-6608-hub-nut-tool-2-116-stamped-steel.aspx)

When the rotors are replaced, you'll need new hub seals b/c I have yet to remove an old hub seal from a rotor without damaging it. Rovers North sells them in a kit under part number RNK5623(you'll need one per wheel).
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/medium/RNK5623.jpg
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5565-hub-seal-kit-93-onward-rr-defender-discovery.aspx (http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/../store/p-5565-hub-seal-kit-93-onward-rr-defender-discovery.aspx)

While you're in there, you'll have the opportunity to clean your wheel bearings and repack them with grease. If they are worn out, now is a opportune time to replace them. Rovers North sells them under part number RNH003(you'll need two per wheel).

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5863-bearing-hub-90110-rr.aspx (http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/../store/p-5863-bearing-hub-90110-rr.aspx)

In terms of rebuilding vs. replacing calipers, I prefer to replace them from a time perspective, but it's entirely up to you and the condition of your current calipers.

Owning a Discovery I with the advanced evaporative loss system will not affect replacing the rotors and pads.

Hope this helps,

Mike Koch

graniterover
11-07-2006, 08:33 AM
1. Is this an afternoon job for a first timer ?

A long afternoon.

2. Other than socket wrenches, are there any specialized tools I need ?

Hub socket. I'm sure RN has one if you call.

3. I know that one of my front calipers is possibly seized, should I attempt a rebuild or replace ?

Replace. At least I would. If it's seized it's likely due to a corroded piston. Easier to just replace.

4. Does anyone have any photo's of this type of job ?

Try discoweb.

5. I have a 1997 Disco with the advanced evap system if that makes a difference

I did mine and I have no idea wha the 'advanced evap system is'.

The rotors don't just come off, they are bolted to another piece, so it takes a while to get them off. It's not hard, but not quick.

I think if you call RN they'll tell you what you need.

When you push the pistons in on the caliper when you put the new pads and rotors on, make sure you have removed a bit of fluid from the brake res. I put a rag around it as well so it doens't get everywhere if I don't take enough fluid out.

Leslie
11-07-2006, 08:55 AM
I'd allot a full Saturday for your first time.... after being familiar with it, and afternoon would be okay. It'd be a good idea to have someone w/ you that's done it before.

I'd highly suggest a hub-nut socket. It can be done w/o, w/ say, channel-locks, but you'll be marring the nuts a bit unnecessarily... using the right tool always makes the job go better.

Once you get the rotor/hub assembly off, and you have the old rotor removed and ready to put back on, it helps if you use the bolts as guides... place the rotor and hub gently together, put the bolts in, then tap the two back together... the bolts will keep the holes aligned. (Just one of those things that wasn't in the instructions, that once someone showed me that, it made it go so much easier.)

landi41
11-08-2006, 05:21 AM
Actually it's a bitch of a job first time out........
i don't recall anyone mentioning the 12 point socket required to un-bolt the calipers, sorry i dont remember the size.......

As for the "seized" caliper you can rebuild them (cheaper) , i'm sure our host has the parts......

bblake12
11-08-2006, 07:58 AM
Guys, thanks for the quick follow-up. I am going to do this soon so I will keep you posted on my progress. I really appreciate all the hints and information.

Thanks,

Bryan

BarryO
11-08-2006, 11:39 AM
1. Is this an afternoon job for a first timer ? IMHO, not for a first timer. Allocate one afternoon for front, one for back.

In order to replace the rotors, you need to:

-remove calipers,
-remove hub,
-remove hub from rotor, install new one,
-clean and repack, or maybe replace, wheel bearings,
-reinstall hub,
-adjust bearings,
-reinstall calipers w. new pads.

Make sure you have the manual. I found this page helpful the first time I did it: http://www.d-90.com/tech/bearing.html

If re-using the bearings, clean off off the old grease, and pack new grease into all the nooks and crannies in the bearings. I found this takes longer than you think it's going to. ;)

J!m
11-08-2006, 11:48 AM
i don't recall anyone mentioning the 12 point socket required to un-bolt the calipers, sorry i dont remember the size...

I think its a 13mm 12-point socket. Get a good quality one too, because if the caliper is seised, most likely you will need lots of torque, heat and a large helping of luck on those caliper bolts to get them apart... You may want to go ahead and order new bolts. You can always send them back if you don't need them. Plenty of Never-Seez (the copper stuff) on the threads and shank of the caliper bolts too, so next time it actually comes apart for you...

landi41
11-08-2006, 06:18 PM
Like the sailor who peed into the wind It all comes back to me now......
to remove the rotor from the hub....use the road wheel as your vise invert the wheel and set the hub into it just as it would be on the truck, this vise will hold the hub while you unbolt the disc........ worked for me on a 110 brake job....

Matthew Lutz
11-11-2006, 07:49 PM
I discovered that the Hub/Disc bolts were 14mm 12point.

The 5 bolts that hold the ABS sensor(?) to the hub were shot on mine. Someone before me stripped them round. I had to chisel the heads off, run to the hardware store, etc.

Also of note, I ordered my rotors from Rovers North. They packed the rotors with what looked like the leftover cardboard remains of strapping tape to keep the rotors from banging around in the box - the rigid cardboard cylinder that the tape is wound around. Anyway, those cardboard cylinders were the perfect size for helping press-fit the inner hub seal into the hub! Coincidence, I think not.

Mike Koch
11-14-2006, 10:32 AM
If you're looking for some worthwhile images of this brake job being performed, please peruse pages 93-96 of the North American November 2006 issue of LRM.

Mike

bblake12
11-21-2006, 05:39 AM
Just wanted to drop a note to everyone that I completed the work this afternoon. Many thanks to Mike K for the parts list that was a big help. I just finished the front both calipers and rotors. Apart from some bolts being severly frozen (those caliper bolts are a b**ch to get to) the job was not too bad. I had a helper so that made it go a little easier but it was about 4 hours total.
What a mess ! I think I was up to my arms in grease after repacking the bearings. Also thanks to landi41 for the wheel tip, I had to think for a minute on how to get the bolts off the hub/rotor.

Anyways it was a successful job and I am on to the heater fan not blowing.

Thanks,

Bryan Blake

landi41
11-21-2006, 10:35 PM
Thanks Bryan for the feedback glad it went well for you

jwb998
07-08-2007, 08:43 AM
I am getting ready to do the same job and I have a few other questions. Do you need the fitting kit? It seems cheap enough that I might as well. The other question is that they have two brake kits. One is pads and rotors and the other is the same with the hardware, but more then twice the price. Will I likely need to replace a lot the hardware? I guess the only way to know is to get in there.

J!m
07-09-2007, 06:45 AM
What I normally do is to order all the parts I might possibly need for the job.

This way, once you are in there, with it all apart all over the floor, you can decide what to replace without having to wait until the next shipment to complete the job. Plus you have to pay for shipping again. Normally, I realize I need additional parts on Sunday afternoon, when even the local part stores are closed (not that they have what I need EVER). I don't know how things go for you...

I get everything, and return what I don't use. remember to get an RA number.

Nine out of ten times, I end up replacing everything anyway. Rusty old bolts and other parts may not be the best things to rely on for your braking system...