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View Full Version : Are more powerful coil+wires worthwhile?



Clive
12-29-2006, 11:23 AM
I fitted a petronix electronic ignition to my Turner 2.25 8:1 about a year ago and was impressed at the noticeable improvement in running (and the fact that I didn't have to set points every few months) - although I always carry the points and condenser JIC.
Can anyone advise whether a better coil and wires would provide any more power? If so what coil, and what wires?
Many thanks in advance.

J!m
12-30-2006, 09:34 AM
Magnecor are the only real option for plug wires.

All the others, regardless of hype, are essentially identical.

www.magnecor.com

Read all they have to say, and become a convert like me!

I have had good luck with MSD coils on other projects; however my series has a Jacobs ignition system on it.

83lee
05-23-2009, 06:43 PM
Just wanted to bump this back up to the top to get some more opinions.

My coil is leaking oil, so I'll be replacing it along with the ignition wires, points, cap, rotor and plugs.

There's lots of coils and wires out there that will provide and carry a hotter spark. I just want to know if there is any advantage to using them.

4flattires
05-23-2009, 07:48 PM
When I light my bbq grill, I can use a bar room paper match or my oxy-acetylene set on the bluest flame I can muster.

The thing still goes BOOM with the same fury :-)

Jeff

greenmeanie
05-23-2009, 11:01 PM
As Jeff pointed out merely putting on fancy parts does not really affect the park much. The spark will jump the gap when the volts built up on the elctrode exceed the dielectric properties of the air. It does this regardless of the parts you apply.

Now you can get some benefit by increasing the plug gap so a bigger fatter spark results as more volts are required to break down the greater dielectric. Of course, in order to build up that potential on the electrode in the same amount of time as the original so as to not affect timing you require a better coil and leads.

This is where the greater capacitance of the sport coil comes as it will build voltage faster to a greater amount than OEM. Good leads are essential to commute that graeater potential from the coil to the plug.

I totally agree about the Magnecors. I couldn't get OEM leads to last more than a year in the desert as they are of the carbon coated fiberglass strip variety and break down rather quickly. MAgnecors work well, should last the life of the truck and at least when I bought mine they were not significantly more then OEM.

The penalty is that a bigger spark will erode the electrode faster resulting in shortened plug life. If I remember it also affects the flame front formation or something like that si it is not just a simple bigger is better equation.

Having said all that all these parts will make for a better, more reliable spark with less maintenance across the entire rev range which as we all know is well worth the money.

gudjeon
05-24-2009, 09:42 AM
I went this route:
- Autoparts store for electronic ignition coil (1980's spec)
- pertronix installed into my 24D distributor
- made my own wiring and put in a ballast system
- HT leads from same autostore
- Use Champion RN11YC4 plugs (already pre gapped at .040")

I have been running this combo daily for about 4 years now and never had any problems. Its cheap and effective. Works from -30c to +30c temps. beyond that, I don't know yet.:thumb-up:

greenmeanie
05-24-2009, 10:31 PM
Gudgeon,
The only thing with your set up that seems odd is that you kept a ballast resistor. It's function is to reduce the coil input to about 9V to protect the points. No points and an internally ballated coil as you have means the ballast resistor is redundant.

gudjeon
05-24-2009, 10:53 PM
Its a non ballasted coil. Says so right on it.:thumb-up:

greenmeanie
05-24-2009, 11:06 PM
Its a non ballasted coil. Says so right on it.:thumb-up:

And that is for electronic ignition you say??

You are basically running a system that is good for 12V on a 9V input. It all comes down to being able to build up the potential on one electrode in time between spark events. I don't think the 2 1/4 is enough of a performance engine for it to make a difference but on a higher revving engine you'd see performance dropping off.

I won't, however, argue with success. If ain't broke don't let me harking on make you change it.

gudjeon
05-24-2009, 11:43 PM
I put my set up together as it would be based on mid 70's dodge electronic ignition. I used this spec for the coil and resistor. The coil is made to deliver full spark needed for electronic ignition with the ballast. It packs good whallop, ask me how I know.:eek:

J!m
05-26-2009, 10:00 AM
If your ballast resister-equipped ignition is wired correctly, you will have full power for ignition, and then it will drop significantly (run through the resistor) for normal running.

If it is sparking 'full bore' (i.e. the resistor is bypassed) all the time, you will fry the coil.

But, it certainly will pack a wallop for as long as it lasts!:thumb-up:

gudjeon
05-26-2009, 11:10 AM
Exactly J!M,

Full power to coil the coil while it is cranking, because the voltage drops due to the draw of the starter. Once running, the starter shuts off and current goes through the resistor. The good old Ford relay with the bypass circuit terminal is used to bypass the resistor for cranking on my rig. Ford starter relay from Napa for 10 bucks. Cheap and cheerful:thumb-up:

greenmeanie
05-26-2009, 12:00 PM
If your ballast resister-equipped ignition is wired correctly, you will have full power for ignition, and then it will drop significantly (run through the resistor) for normal running.

If it is sparking 'full bore' (i.e. the resistor is bypassed) all the time, you will fry the coil.

But, it certainly will pack a wallop for as long as it lasts!:thumb-up:

That applies only if you use a standard coil that is not internally ballasted. IIRC fior electronic ignition running 12V power you want a coil with 3 ohms internal resistance. This is why Pertronix offer the Flamethrower, Lucas have the Sport type coil and several other companies offer the same. You run 12V all the time.

I've had a Newtronics (UK optical system but same function as the Pertonix) with a Lucas sport coil on my 88 and separate ballast resistor for over 100K miles with no problem. Starts on the first crank and pulls hard (for a series) all the way to redline.