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Stephen99D1
04-22-2010, 08:14 PM
Rather than add more questions to the recent waxoyl threads in the Series section, I figured I'd ask my questions here...

I'm planning to buy the kit and waxoyl my D1 in June. It's not my daily driver so that gives me time to thoroughly clean it and wait for the temps to heat up for this driveway project.

I've read the waxoyl FAQs and watched the videos, plus read a good number of the threads under a "waxoyl" search. Used the spray cans for some smaller projects, like under the rock sliders, so I have some experience with the product and like it.

So anyway, here are my questions. There have been a few articles in LRM and LRO lately dealing with rust. They've mentioned using a rust converter after chipping/scrubbing the gunk off and before applying waxoyl. I don't recall seeing any mention of that step in any of the waxoyl threads here or on the FAQ. Thoughts?

As for the application itself, how accurate are the pro application wands for the hardwax? I'm wondering about the "ball" areas around swivel balls, TREs, etc. Ditto for the various lines that run around the frame, such as ss brake lines, ABS lines, etc. Should I mask those areas and items off? What about spring perches? Is it common to remove the springs? I'd rather not go through THAT much prep-work, especially since I'm planning to do this in my driveway. But, if I'm going to take the time to do this I want to do as good a job as possible and may consider going to that length.

Any other detailed application hints or recommendations along these lines?

Thanks! :thumb-up:

Stephen

EDIT: Oh and in case you couldn't tell, I'm planning to go crazy with the waxoyl and hit up everything in sight and not just the frame - radius arms, axles, track rods...

TSR53
04-23-2010, 09:33 AM
To answer your Qs...

All you need to do is properly clean the underside prior to application of Waxoyl using Super Clean, Simple Green or similar, power wash well and optimally let dry, but can still be left slightly wet.

I'll try to help here as I have experience applying Waxoyl Hardwax and 120-4 with the aerosol and the preferred method with professional wands.

Waxoyl is designed to be applied by a trained professional with professional applicators. The aerosol cans do work, but you are limited with how they apply the product not producing the optimum preferred professional results. They are best saved for touch up.

First off if, you do this in your driveway make sure it is covered with a disposable tarp and the clothing you use is on it's last legs... :rolleyes:.

We applied Waxoyl Hardwax to my 2006 MINI Cooper R53 here at RN on the lift using the RNW5017 gun. NOTE: this gun is NOT the most accurate gun. For accuracy, use the HRS pressure gun RNWHRS with the proper wand RNW5012.

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/icon/RNW5017.JPG (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-7281-waxoyl-hardwax-application-gun.aspx)

I was worried (understatement) about how my beautiful underside on my R53 would be after all this stuff was covering it. I masked off the brake calipers, the rotors, and as much of other parts I didn't want to be covered. The minute it was applied, my poor Cooper S looked as though it went for a dip in the LaBrea Tar Pits :eek: !

It was only after the Waxoyl had set up, cured and been covered in dirt over the last two years from good old Vermont gold dust that I realized how good Waxoyl really is. Since applying in Nov 2008, I've come to the conclusion that ALL cars should have this done to them the minute they roll off the line. I wish I had done it back in April 2006 when it was only a month old. :(

Yes, go crazy, use 120-4 on all exposed bolt heads, places where metal seams meet, edges of metal and anywhere inside the bonnet, doors, behind things. Aerosol 120-4 works ok here, but best coverage is using the RNW5013 120-4 gun as it is designed to be fogged.
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/icon/RNW5013.JPG (http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-7280-waxoyl-rust-inhibitor-gun-w120-4-wands.aspx)

So, with all that said (Calef might chime in here to add to this), if you can get to one of the application centers (or know of a local shop near you that could be a center) have it professionally applied - this will give you the best results. Otherwise, you are best off purchasing the right tools to apply Waxoyl properly.

Again, here are some photos of my application. I hope this helps you.
http://www.tsrennsport.com/weblog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/DSC_0033-waxoyl-540.jpg
120-4 fogging, in on the right side FOGGING out the small little hole on the left!

http://www.tsrennsport.com/weblog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/DSC_0035-waxoyl-540.jpg

http://www.tsrennsport.com/weblog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/DSC_0041-waxoyl-540.jpg

LaBrea Tar Pits!

http://www.tsrennsport.com/weblog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/DSCF8886-waxoyl-540.jpg

Several weeks later as it has set up.

Stephen99D1
04-23-2010, 12:40 PM
Thanks Thompson! That's exactly the kind of detail I needed. I am planning to buy the "professional" RN kit -- I'll check the wand numbers and such before placing the order and possibly call instead of ordering over the internet.

While I'd love to get to take the truck to one of the pro sites, they're just too far away for the time I have available (in the blocks available). More importantly though, I like to work the vehicles myself as much as I can. It's a long term ownership so I'm sure I'll be waxoyling it a few times over the years. Might as well get used to the process. A pro job could apply a better "base" coat, but the distance isn't really conducive.

Glad to hear that I don't need the extra rust-converter layer. That saves me some effort. And good point about the mess - I learned that lesson with the small aerosol can job I did a few years ago. I'm sure this will be much worse.