I finally got around to unbolting and de-wiring a PO fabricated trailer connector that was mounted through the rear tub. I hope to find a great local welder that can patch up the nice round hole that remains.
Jeff
Printable View
I finally got around to unbolting and de-wiring a PO fabricated trailer connector that was mounted through the rear tub. I hope to find a great local welder that can patch up the nice round hole that remains.
Jeff
I walked past them and said "customer trucks come first" then I got into my 300k Jetta and drove away.
When I get slow with customers cars I work on mine.
Today I hope to start it up and find out if I just blew the muffler or the muffler AND one of the pipes when it backfired.
Right now it sounds like a lobster boat.
Well, if I can count the last five weekdays:
the engine got:
New cam, lifters, timing chain, timing gears, fuel rail, fuel lines, cylinder heads, timing cover and water pump. The engine is in final stages of button up.
Gearbox:
I dropped off parts for an NP435 gearbox buildup at a local transmission specialist. He will be building a box with Ford NP435 case, Chevy NP435 gears & top cover, Ford 35 spline output shaft. This gearbox should be ready early next week and will replace the T-18 currently in my truck.
Also in process:
Recently took delivery of a new striped canvas for the Dormobile lifting top, a pintle hook, a new set of OME shocks and I have a new front bumper on order from Ike.
:thumb-up: :thumb-up: :thumb-up:
I just saw the pair of mine for the first time in 5 weeks, and wished them a happy new year! Then I unpacked all the goodies I just brought back from the U.K. Lots to do now!!!
Attachment 2537
Tried to figure out where to start.....bulkhead.....wings......new frame.....?
Walked out of the house....20 degrees....got into the Rover, pulled the choke out, turned the key, hit the button.
Fired right up.....let it warm for about a minute, dropped her into gear and drove to work.
Finally got her past the "needing to tinker with it" stage. Now shes doing her job as Maurice intended!
Haven't driven the truck for a while, so despite being about 10 degrees this morning fired it up to go to a big breakfast meeting. Arrived at the meeting with no brakes, so truck returned on a flatbed :-(
I'm working on front wheel alignment and transferring sending units & draw tubes to my new military fuel tanks - nothing very exciting at all, but it needs to get done.
I ordered a new rear door for my II-A from Rovers North. I'm now trying to unscrew the rear window "frames", which seem quite rusted in place. I did manage to get the door latch mechanism off the door.
It should be painted by next week. It is way past time for me to keep running the canvas top. Brr.....
Jeff
Took the 40 mile trip up to Camp Pendleton today. Tomorrow will be an oil change and general tinkering.
Very exciting day with the sIII. Embarked on my first semi long distance trip, to Hamburg, PA. About a 260 mile round trip without any issues. Cruised in the right lane without an OD, averaging between 50-55mph, and even hitting 60-63mph a few times.
Happy drive back home from Cabela's with a Remington 870 Wingmaster wasn't bad either! :D
This happened last weekend, before it got warm here (it's above freezing today, which feels quite unusual). The temperature was around -25C (about -10F). Took the Rover for a quick run to the store, got out, and my son remarked about all the "dripping" coming from the engine. Quick check showed antifreeze leaking rapidly from the bottom hose (I had moved the hose clamp and retightened it earlier due to antifreeze dripping when I had the radiator hose heater plugged in). The clamp wasn't working, obviously.
Quick look into the radiator showed no fluid, so I went to the nearby store for a quick antifreeze refill. Poured a new jug of antifreeze into the radiator, then got back in the Rover to hustle on home (about 8 miles away). We drove as steadily as we could, through traffic, keeping an eye on the engine temp. About halfway back, it started to get warm. But it never got too hot, and we made it back. I figure I was out of antifreeze but the outside temp kept the engine cool enough.
I never thought I'd say that -25C would be good for the Rover. Replaced the hose and clamp the next morning (in an unheated garage). Other than that, my drives are mostly uneventful. It's a dependable rig.
Started cutting out the right hand footwell.... dang there are a lot of spot wells to cut out....:eek:
Finished putting in the rear main seal, thanks to help from here :)
During the move the clutch alignment tool was misplaced so I have to dig through the donor rig tomorrow and hopefully drop the motor back in and start getting her buttoned back up.
I cannot wait to be back on the road in a Series truck! The DII is nice, just doesn't have the same character.
I plan on topping up all of the 90wt oils on my 109, since I haven't checked them in weeks.
I will also measure the battery cables on the Disco for replacement this week. Interestingly, the Disco rarely starts unless I turn on the headlights. It cranks like it has a low battery or doesn't crank at all until I turn on the headlights and then it starts right up. I have already cleaned all of the grounds and added an additional ground wire between the engine and chassis. Hmmmm...
Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8
Continued disassembling my SIII for a new galvanized frame. Took both drive shafts off. Started unbolting the steering assembly and many other bits and pieces. Heated and hammered the set screws out of the drums of the Salisbury rear end and pulled the drums etc to start prepping it.
Pete
Just driving to and from work and going downtown to buy odds and sods for the house. Nothing exciting happening. Last week had -20c mornings so had it plugged in for a couple hours each morning on the block heater. I tried the 5w50 for winter and I am happy with the results. Pressure comes up very fast when starting up cold and viscosity must remain when the engine is warm. The pressure doesn't start to drop during a warm idle like regular winter weight oils.:thumb-up:
Next up when its warm, new door latches, relocate the spare tire, and hardwire a 120v inverter. I'm already looking forward to camping this summer.:D
Oh yea, I have two US style gerry cans to mount.
I added my custom radiator muff (cardboard box) and I replaced my turn signal / headlight hi-low stalk today (now my headlights work). I started on a lower dash heater plenum rehabilitation.... but that will take the rest of the week to sort out.
(thinking about the 'romp)
Pulled the plug on the bell housing to see if there was any oil to drain (nope)
Changed the transfer case oil
Changed the gearbox oil
Greased the prop shafts
Topped up the swivel pin housings
Poked around under the truck, cleaning and trying to sort out where the drips are coming from and decided that having a garage with heat, light and music is a very good thing...
Dave
i pulled off my tow plate to install my new heavy duty hitch and was reminded of how rotted it was behind it so i stopped and went to mess on badvibe's truck with him. he did a rear wheel seal. went pretty smoothly. oh and we did this in the driveway, it was a really nice day here today. after the seal work he goes for a quick oil change. that goes pretty smooth. fire it up and no oil pressure, after about 2 minutes of high idling a weird whirly whiney not quite screachy sound begins. shut it down. he replaced a purlator with a fram ph8a. mmm, de ja vu all over again as yogi would say. put the old pulator back on, oil pressure good no weird sound.
a little over a year ago i put in a fram ph8a, did 7 miles, couldn't hear the weird whirly noise because i'm on the hwy doing 60 mph and the engine seizes. you may have remember my problem was my spin on was on 180` wrong and the new fram had some sort of anti back-flow valve or what ever makes 'em one directional now.
well jeff has been using fram for years and because his prssr gauge sender was oriented the way mine was when it was wrong a couple months ago he flipped his around but the store he went to didn't carry fram so he bought the purlator. you remember the purlator? well it worked well with badvibe's spin on adapter flipped around. so jeff points out that our spin on adptrs are different, mines about the size of a really thick puck and his is a two piece much bigger but way thinner. bottom line he's gotta flip his adapter around again if he want's to use frams
Yesterday - new carb to air filter pipe hose and aired up the tires. Went from 7.5 mpg to 14 mpg. Cold weather had let the tires down to abnormal levels.
My buddy wrapped some wiring that had a couple of bare areas.
Good times.
Yeah no kidding. So like scott and others found out the spin on adapter they have is the one piece type that when mounted correctly puts the sending unit pointed more to the breakfast than the bulkhead.
My adapter is the 2 piece type, I think it gets referred to as a"pancake" type. I had it mounted so that the sending unit was pointed more to the bulkhead. Hearing the woes of others from this orientation, and not realizing that there are 2 types of spin on filter adapters, I took mine off and re-mounted it so that the sending unit is pointed more toward the radiator. Couldn't find a Fram PH8A filter at the time so I used a Puralator. Oil pressure the last 2 months with the Puralator has been fine. Oil pressure the last several years with the adapter mounted with the sending unit pointed more to the the bulkhead and using Fram PH8A filters had been fine.
So now today after replacing the seal on the right rear axle I decide to do a quick oil change. Take the Puralator filter off and put on a new PH8A. Finish the oil change and fire the truck up to see no pressure on the gauge, engine starts making a bad noise after just a moment running and so I shut it down. Put the old Puralator back on, fire the truck up again and no bad noise, oil pressure reads 40 lbs at idle.
So now I'm wondering if I should have left the adapter I have mounted so that the sending unit points more to the back of the motor and I messed up by changing the orientation. Does anybody else run the "pancake" type adapter and how is it oriented? What filters are you using? Anybody know the direction of flow of oil into the filter, does oil enter the filter or exit the filter thru the center opening on the filter?
Here's a pic of the type of adapter I have:
http://i45.tinypic.com/34gt301.jpg
Here's a pic of the adapter scott has:
http://i48.tinypic.com/2d1p6cl.jpg
Here's a pic of the rear seal replacement job, all cleaned up, brakes re-installed and ready to put it all back together.
http://i50.tinypic.com/242u0kg.jpg
It's been too cold to do much of anything mechanical to it so I drove it about 150 miles.
Jim
On Saturday morning it was about 0 degF. Needed to get some insulation for the garage. Havn't driven the truck in cold weather so off I go to the barn. Took about 4 times to get her to start. Took about 5 minutes to get the cold start light to come on. Seemed like another 5 to get her to run without choke, see deflection on temp guage. While she was warming up I put the transfer case in neutral and put the main gear box in 2nd gear for a short time to move the oil a little before I got going.
After the warm up the truck ran great and plenty of heat for me. Did also lock in the hubs and drove arount the lot, about 8" of snow, ran great there also.
Bob
Took the Christmas lights off :o
I used the hitch mount to anchor a come-along winch and length of chain to a 30' cottonwood tree I needed to fell. I needed to guide the tree in the right direction and it landed perfectly between my fence and the neighbors. A couple degrees error either way....and...BOOM...'spensive repairs would be needed.
Score one for my excellent novice engineering skills and the Rovers steadiness.
Jeff
Looking at this on the Fram site, it would appear that oil enters the filter around the circumference and exits through the center.
To keep on topic, this week I removed the valves and checked/removed the crankshaft and prepped the block and head for a trip to the machine shop for a good cleaning and inspection.
Interesting that most of the replies to this thread are maintenance-related as opposed to the much more desireable "driving and doing fun stuff"-related. Perhaps everyone does their heavy maintenance during the winter??
Driving around in the snow and ice is routine use of my II-A, hardly worth mentioning - and I do have to earn a living through the Rover :).
I, too, live in a state with an annual inspection ritual. Some of my maintenance is getting it ready to pass this week!
However, next month is the Maine Winter Romp, a chance to hit the trails and who-knows-what conditions in the woods of central Maine.
Jeff
In my case I'm coming into a little money which is paying for some much needed but previously unfordable maintenance items and I'm fine tuning some gear ratios to better fit the kinds of off road driving I do. Then when the maintenance is completed I plan to take the Dormie out on a multiple month trip.
In my case the timing has everything to do with some extra money becoming available.
Actually you may be able to help me decide what I am going to do!
I blew out the muffler the other day. When I bought the truck it came with a SS muffler with a crack in it where the tailpipe comes out of the muffler itself (see pic). At the time I just bought another mild steel muffler from our hosts to get the truck inspected. Now I figure that I will repair the SS muffler and put it back on.
I believe the crack was caused by a combo of the muffler being incorrectly supported when and the strikes which caused the dents in it.
My question is, has any one done a quick repair weld on a muffler like this and what sort of wire should I use? I am a fair/unpracticed welder using a 110V Lincoln Mig welder with fluxcore wire.
If it were me I'd just take the truck down to the local muffler shop & tell them I want a new free flow muffler and if they show you that the exhaust tubing is also gone, I suggest going with the next diameter larger pipe.
They can generally do a better job than most people can for not all that much more than buying replacement parts at retail. Over time I've become more choosy over which battles I'll fight and which I'll farm out.
Muffler shop may be an option as I have done that with my 109 P-up. But since I have the muffler (and have just had my 1 year wedding anniversary) I figured that I would try to save a bit and see if fixing is an option.
If I do go to the muffler shop I most likely would have them do the next diameter pipe as more flow definitely doesn't hurt!
Well, I just started my series III 109" for the first time in nearly six years, I change the spark plugs and put some new gas in and she started right up, maybe took me fifteen minutes to get her purring. Gotta love my landy!!!! I just need to get the body back together and she'll be back on the road just in time for summer...................I hope! So for all you procrastinators out there, and we all know who we are, there is hope!!!!
I installed some rear mud flaps today and adjusted the clutch pedal play. As always, while tooling around the engine, I noticed a leak by the #3 head bolt just under the #3 fuel injector. It looks like i need to retorque the bolt. I don't feel much like taking the injector off to check the torque. Does anyone have the tool shown in the green bible that allows torqueing of the bolt without removing the injector?
So, after 2 hours of snow blowing and digging, the Airportable is now out of the back yard and getting ready for a new home
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23292765@N07/?saved=1
:)
:eek:
I would be all for making one but lack two major items. First, I don't own a "smoke wrench" (propane torch I assume) and secondly haven't seen anyone do it before. If I were to use a cheap wrench, would the open end fit the torque wrench?