List of electrical problems after replacing a fried battery.

Hey everyone, Ive got a healthy amount of issues happening at once. Im wondering if it is a coincidental multi-componant failure, or possibly corrosion that is making it seem like a $1000 worth of parts need replacng.
My disco was parked for a month, and I had to jump it. It was totally dead. I replaced the battery and there is a ringing sound (alert) and the battery light is on. Also, the tach is not working. I drove it a couple of blocks to my mechanic to test the alternator. He said they couldn't get it to start so they pushed it into the shop and think the fuel pump is bad, so they couldn't test the alternator. I got in, wiggled the shifter in park and it turned over, but would only run for a few seconds. He's probably right, but Im wondering what the sound means and if the problem could be a series of shorts relating to corrosion. Also, I pulled the radio and alarm fuses.

I really appreciate any tips on what to check, and advise on whether I should or shouldn't just replace the fuel pump and alternator before diving into the electrical abyss. Thanks

I'm wondering if the immobilizer was activated, this is part of the Security System. This prevents starting if someone tries to steal the car, by shutting down the fuel pump. It will turn over until the battery dies, but never start. And the alternator can be tested off the car by any competent mechanic, or even at places like Advance Auto parts. And also the Tach runs off the alternator on these. Once running again (or the battery fully charged and the immobilizer cleared) the fuel system can be pressure tested. Try the Disco Web for info on the immobilizer, and if you have one. What year is it?

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

Thanks mearstrae, its a 98. Ill look up the immobilizer threads. Is that the spider? Cheers

Yes, AMR 4956. A bugger to get at under the center of the dash.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

Thanks again! Have everything out but the coin tray above the ashtray. It's really stuck. Trying not to introduce a screwdriver into the equation. Thanks again.

So, I had the dash torn apart, and walked around to look at the main fuses and noticed the 100 amp was blown. Replaced it and now have tach and battery light turns off and no alarm from behind dash. But, still have the problem of engine turns over but doesn't start. There is a ticking sound from the fire wall that lasts a couple of seconds after the engine dies, but I can't get to it fast enough to find out where it's coming from.
I checked the inertia switch and fuel pump relay. Is there something else to check before buying a 400 fuel pump? I read where someone used a generic 80 dollar pump, are there any cautions regarding this? Thanks again, Bryan
Trying to think of what could have knocked out the main fuse and the fuel pump… Also, any suggestions for a decent scan tool?

Go to the back of the disco and find the hot wire on the fuel pump and see if there is any power. A voltmeter (multi-meter) or a test light should show if there is any power at the pump with the ignition switch on. If not, unplug the hot wire and run another wire to the positive side of the battery back to the pump terminal and see if the pump runs. This will at least narrow down if it's in the wiring or the pump itself that's bad. I've been using the "iCarsoft" scanner for Land Rovers, our hosts have them, but so does Ebay (not a inexpensive unit). The last pump I purchased was from our hosts at something like $130, I'd avoid a pump that was too cheap. But, low price might mean it's actually a rebuild kit for the pump assembly. A dead ground of a positive terminal or wire would make short work of the 100a fuse, so maybe wires got crossed or something was grounded out while it was being worked on. I hope this isn't as clear as mud for you.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

Went to the junk yard and pulled a pump off a 96. Its not a match, but i can pull the pump out of the unit and switch it out. That is, if I could get the fuel lines disconnected. How do I pop these loose? Afraid Im going to break something.
http://i.picresize.com/EGDA

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump4.html Here's a site that shows a similar pump, look down the page to find the rebuild process. A picture is worth a thousand words, as they say.

I'm ahead of myself...I just looked at the pic of where you're working, these may be push barb fittings that take a special tool to release the inner teeth, I've encountered similar fittings on my Ford truck's fuel system. I've never had my Disco pump out so this revelation is new to me also, nothing like my '95 R.R.C. You should be able to find the proper tool at the local auto parts, possibly they have a loan program so you don't need to buy the tool.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

I've learned a lot about the disco 1 this week and my rover moves! It only cost me a few dollars and a fingernail. Thanks -mearstrae for your help. The lesson my 11a constantly taught me, start with the simplest solution, was this weeks lesson for sure. Thanks again!

Land Rovers are a learning experience... After you've owned one for awhile you'll have the electrical and mechanical know-how to work on anything. I was just going to amend my last post as the RAVE Manual says you just release the Black Release Tab. Now we both know... And even after having these Rover things for so long I'm still learning what I don't know.