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I am in th middle of building a hybrid, its a RRC frame with a stretched 88" body. I am ditching the viscous fan for an electric fan set up but im not sure which, or how much cooling i need. this is meant to be a budget build, so no $400 dual fan setups. does anyone have imput on this. I am ditching the viscous fan to save gas, save space, and get a little more power.
unless you can spend the big $$'s on a really good electric fan system, you'll be better off with the standard engine driven fan. I can't count the amount of builds I've seen with electric fans that are prone to various failures and overheating, that have gone back to engine driven fans.
thanks, ill see if the front end will fit together with the stock fan in there. will the fan work if its not shrouded? and how close is a safe distance between the fan and the radiator?
A good fan shroud is the key to having an effective fan no matter how it is driven.
Safe clearance 'tween the fan and rad depends somewhat on the engine mounting system. Series and V8 mounts can be fairly close...I've run them as close as 1 inch. Softer mounts and you'll need to be further away.
I am going to need a defender nose for the front of my truck. grill, hood, and fenders. I suppose the fenders could be series III. If I do this I can use the factor monts for the radiator and keep the mechanical fan and oil cooler positions. Where can I find one of these, and how much would a used one cost?
My first post here...
I've got a '69 Series IIa 12 passenger 109 Safari (original 12 passenger Safari) with no engine. I've got a '90 RR chassis, and the goal is a hybrid that looks as close to the original 109 as possible.
I picked up an electric fan setup from another vehicle -- I don't recall from what, but it's a modern twin fan unit that seems to be high quality. For someone doing a "budget" build, that may be an option.
Not meaning to hijack CliftonRover's thread, but is there any way to do a V8 powered hybrid build without resorting to a Defender nose?
My "hybrid" parts collection is the '90 Rover with a 3.9, an LT-77 and LT-230 from a Discovery. In addition to the hybrid project, we've got an '87 Rangie, a '96 Disco, and a Triumph TR-8 coupe (Rover in engine only).
Not my website, but you may find this interesting... http://www.estes.com/gallery/view_al...Name=LandRoverQuote:
Originally Posted by KMW
I did something similar with my 109, but unfortunately didn't take any photos of the build. Your collection of parts sounds fine with the exception of the V8 LT-77. If you want to retain the stock front end of the Series (recessed grill), you will need to source a 4 cylinder LT-77 or R380 & get an adapter plate to the V8. Good luck - make sure to post photos of your progress.
I have a D90 3.9 V8 and R380 with RR axles on a 109 leaf spring chassis. I kept the SIIA recessed grill. There is not enough room for a mechanical fan, but I use one electric pusher and one electric puller with an oversized radiator for cooling.
Bob
Thanks for the info guys. The fellow with the truck on the link that Mogly406 posted also gave me some great info. What's the difference between the four cylinder and V8 LT77s? My only experience with that transmission family is from the TR8/MGB V8 world.
siiirhd88, what fender flares did you use? I love that look, it seems a lot of hybrids have more exaggerated flares, but yours are more fitting to the simple lines of a series truck.
Oh, CliftonRover -- one thing to think about when setting up fan to radiator clearance is your likelihood of encountering water crossings. When I campaigned a rally car common occurance was guys having their fans too close, and when they hit a water crossing the fan blades would get sucked into the radiator; nothing like a DNF to make your day.
The biggest difference between an LT-77 for a 4 cylinder and 8 cylinder is the length of the bell housing. The 4 cyl version is quite a bit shorter and will enable you to keep your grill recessed for the Series look w/o putting the gear shift into the seatbox. Attached is a photo of my 109 just after I finished building it - it will give you an idea of the look without fender flares.
KMW,
I can't recall the maker of the rubber fender flares on the 109. They were purchased from Summit, and are secured by screws to the lip on the wheel arch. If I find the old box I will let you know the maker.
I think the very early narrow 109 16 inch wheels are offset enough to keep the tire edge just inside the original wheel arch. The wheels on our 109 are 7 inch wide steel Disco wheels and had too much spatter without the flares.
Bob
Hi CliftonRover,
I believe we have talked in the past, its been a while though. JC Whitney has flares that don't cost an arm and a leg. Summit Racing has a nice fan set-up, two fans with a schroud. Various sizes. I used these fans with no problem. Fans are thermostat controled and have an overide switch for fording water so they don't spray the engine. I also mounted the air conditioning fans on the outside as pushers with only an on off switch, I have not needed to turn these on no matter how hot it gets.
Paul :)
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Hi... That's my site... FYI - I moved it from the server in my basement and put it on Flickr:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mogly406
http://tinyurl.com/yv45gq
Hey I like the tilt front cap, was it hard to get to work?
How do you spread the bottom rear to clear the bulkhead?
Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11
The wrecking yard can be your friend
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/.../gr_radfan.jpg
Bosch electric pusher fan off a V8 Mercedes - $15.
I have not been on this forum in a long time. Sorry!
I would like to answer the last question posted.
The tilt hood does not need to spread wide to close, it's the location of the front hinge that matters. If the hinge is on the same level as the lowest part of the back of the hood then it will not need to clear the bulkhead because it doesn't reach the bulkhead until it's closed.
On the cooling. I have absolutely no problem with cooling not having a mechanical engine driven fan. In fact I never took off my Rovers North Radiator Muff this summer, I only opened it. Having a shroud designed for the radiator makes a huge difference because all of the air pulled by the fan must go through the radiator, also the fact that this is not a thirty five year old radiator really helps. If the outside temp is not very hot I can leave my house, get on the highway, get up to speed (70-80+) and it often takes more than 10 miles before the fans come on. Another benefit of not having a mechanical engine fan is the ability to switch it off while in deep water.
If my Rover were still stock I believe I would still fit an electrical fan with shroud but I would also make sure the radiator was in more than just good condition.