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I just got a '97 Disco and can't seem to get the diff lock to engage. It switches between high low range just fine but it just won't move into diff lock. I asked the previous owner and he didn't even know there was a diff lock or what it did. So I'm not sure when the last time it was engaged if ever.
Anybody have any suggestions.
Thanks
Buddy
This is a typical problem on these vehicles. Some previous owners never use the diff lock or low range and the transfer gearbox levers sieze. You'll need to get to the selector assembly on top of the gearbox, soak it with penetrating oil and gently work the lever loose. Go easy because some of the linkage componants have been known to snap.
Arthur
Here's the Discovery I transfercase illustration.
As you can see, the diff lock mechanism is comprised of a lot of little parts that require lubrication and operation to keep in top condition. Unfortunately, to do the job properly, you will need to open 'er up and get after it...
Hope this helps, all the parts are listed below in case you happen to break something or might possibly need replacement.
http://c7716.r16.cf2.rackcdn.com/RN-...ansfercase.jpg
18. RND640 LINK ARM - DIFF LOCK LT230
19. RND641 CLIP - CLEVIS PIN TSFR LVR LT230T
20. RND642 RETAINING CLIP
21. RND643 CLEVIS PIN - TRANSFER LEVER LT230T
22. RND644 RETAINER CLIP - CLEVIS PIN
23. RND642 RETAINING CLIP
24. RND645 PIVOT PIN - DIFF LOCK ROD
25. RND646 LINK ROD - TRANSFER BOX LT230
26. RND647 CLEVIS - TRANSFER LINKAGE LT 230
27. RND648 BUSH - GEAR SHAFT LT230
28. RNE157 NUT - M8
29. RNE450 NUT - M8
30. RNE469 NYLOC NUT - M8
31. RND649 LINK CONNECTING - LT230
32. RND650 GASKET - GEAR CHANGER LT85
33. RND651 SPRING PIN - TRANSFER LINK
34. RND456 WASHER - FLAT 8MM I.D. (used in many other places...)
35. RND652 HOUSING - DIFF LOCK SELECTOR LT230
36. RND653 O-RING TRANSFER CASE
37. RND654 O-RING TRANSFER CASE
38. RND651 SPRING PIN - TRANSFER LINK
--- RND655 CLIP
39. RND656 SWITCH - DIFF LOCK/REVERSE
40. RND657 NUT (again, used in many other places...)
41. RND658 GROMMET - TRANSFER LEVER - LT230
42. RND659 GASKET - TRANSFER LEVER TOP LT230
43. RND660 BALL END SEAT - TRANSFER
44. RND661 CLEVIS PIN
45. RND662 CLEVIS PIN
46. RNH313 CLIP - COUNTERSHAFT RETAIN DISCOVERY I
Thanks I'll have to give it a go once I have time to pull the center consol out.Quote:
Originally Posted by acpatsouris
Buddy
First time i did this fix i was about 6 hours, the consol removal and installation taking the most time.......there are a few pop rivets holding the gaitor retainer in place which have to be drilled out...... nice to have a Shop Vac on hand to keep things tidy........ you will also need a pop rivett gun and some 3/16" rivetts for the re-install........Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddy
Once you have the CDL unit in your sights try some WD 40 and gental side to side persuation, do not use excessive force or heat of any kind there is a nylon bushing under the lever which protrudes up thru the cross shaft.
If this easy approach dosn't work....and it may not.......
remove the CDL unit to your bench and take it apart, you may have to use the wire brush of your bench grinder to clean up the crossshaft....
Lubricate everything well before assembly i use a mixture of gun grease and anti-sieze
As the British say re-fitting is the reversal of the above :D
ps: the crosshaft, if damaged , is pricey to replace, over $100.00
one last thing.........test the engagement of everything before installing the pop rivetts especially if you have frigged with the linkage in any way.......ask me how i know :)
regards;
Dave
Super tips! Great! Thanks for the DIY R&R on this.
Thanks DaveQuote:
Originally Posted by landi41
I got it working this weekend although it was quite fun. The center console came out without too much hassle. Too bad I can't say the same thing for the shift mechanisim. The shaft was so ceased up it was not going to move at all. So I decided to remove the unit. Well lucky for me the retaining pin had also ceased up inside the saft. So after about an hour and a half of prying the diff lock lever apart and chiseling the pin out I finally removed it. Ater a good bit of persuading with a hammer I finally got the shaft to start moving. I cleaned off all the rust and applied a healthy helping of grease to anything that could posibly move and reassembeled after bending bending the diff lock lever back to normal. :-) All seems to work now.
Thanks for all the pointers.
Buddy.
A bit of preventitive maintainence I do is to completely mummify all these components with tons of grease whenever it is remotely convenient to do so.
This keeps everything working perfectly.:thumb-up:
Also, it helps to use low range and the diff lock occasionally, even if you don't venture off-road very often.
Hi Buddy,
I have the same problem with my 97 Discovery. Have you anything else to add that might be helpful? I'll get out there with my can of penetrating oil, but wonder how much fuss it is to do?
Seems to me though, that a Landy without dif lock is handicapped!
Hmm I would say give yourself at least a half a day just incase things get complex. Mine was a pretty big pain in the behind because the shaft that slides side to side. (can't think of the proper name) was totaly ceased up in the aluminium bushing that is the end cap of the shift unit. The other thing was that the pin holding the shaft to the linkage was also ceased up in the shaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by sirloincloth
Advice? hmm pull the center console out this is fairly simple just go slow if you've never done it all the screws are fairly easy to find. I had to unhook my parking break cable to get it out. Then once it's removed Drill out the rivets for the Diff lock lever. This will reveal the linkage. If you can get the retaining pin out of the linkage then you can remove it fairly easy and it will be easier to free up once out of the vehicle. I used a hammer and lot's of penetrating oil till the shaft finally started to move then I pushed it all the way to the back and sanded off all the rust and applied lot's of grease I kept working it till it moved freely.
Check to make sure the diff lock works by moving the lever with a pair of pliers to ensure that It is not the problem. Once everything is moving put it all back together again. I made sure to pack mine totally full of grease to try and avoid this happening again. Make sure to test the lever before you rivet the cover back on.
I also had to chissel out the retaining pin and pry my likage bar apart to get it removed let's hope you don't have that problem.
If you have a specific question let me know you can always email me at tfricke at gmail dot com since I don't check this board very often.
Good luck and remember installation is the reverse of removal. :D
Okay. At least over the next two weeks I'll have plenty of spare time to get on with it.
Thanks for passing on the info, which is a great help.
The Haynes manual is a waste of time; a big let down.
I want to use 'her' for starting doing green lanes. Maybe then I'll move on to doing the vergins by the side of the road! The old ones are the best...
Cheers:thumb-up:
Get yourself a RAVE CD it's service manuals and such on a CD I've never used the haynes manual but the RAVE CD is ok although I don't think it will be much good on a stuck diff lock lever.
Hi Buddy,
Sorted out my Disco's seized selector problem.
All the advice was a great help.
Just like with yours, mine had seized up at the end in the ally bush. The biggest problem was undoing the bolts holding the unit ontop of the g/box. I took your advice and after fixing it, loaded it all up with a good anti corrosion grease.
Seems like a pretty crappy design. If I need to do it again, I think I'll fit a grease nipple so I can use a flexible grease gun and put it on my future list of maintenance jobs to do.
I thought six hours was a bit much, but now I know different. The first time six hours is probably about right - though if I ever have to do it again, it should be quicker.
Many thanks again for ALL the good helpful advice.
Now my Landy has got its nuts back!
Sirloincloth
glad you got it worked out second time is always faster but let's hope you won't need to do it again at least not on that Rover.
I think the design is OK, its the lack of any notes in the handbook suggesting that the diff lock be engaged on a fairly regular basis to ensure it won't seize.......:nono:Quote:
Originally Posted by sirloincloth
I got a 1995 Disco and the Diff lock will work as follows:
I put it in Neutral and move the diff lock lever to the left and it goes over
fine. The diif lock dash light appears as it should.
I cannot shift it any more than that though.
The question I have is, is this sufficient to make a difference in the
performance of my disco, and is it worth it to get the console off and work on the greasing of it. Or even still going to the dealership
(I know, I know the dealer sucks the money like a ***** sucks cock)
But is it worth taking these steps? thanks.
I'm not sure what you mean by it will not go any farther once the light comes on your diff lock is engaged. Or do you mean it won't shift out of Neutral? There are two different functions in the LeverQuote:
Originally Posted by landrover77
1. Shift from High to Neutral to Low range.
2. Engage and Disengage the Diff Lock.
You should be able to engage and disengage the diff lock in any position high, low and neutral. There are no shift gates for the diff lock. If it does not allow you to move it back and forth between diff locked and unlocked then I would wager something in the linkage is buggered up and it's not seized.
My personal opinion is stay away from the Dealer. Not only do they charge you a fortune but they mostly try and make you fix things you don't need/want fixed. Find yourself an independent mechanic who is well versed in Rovers if you don't like doing your own work but the best bet for a Rover owner is to do their own work.
My only other question here is (on a 95 disco)
how much "elbow grease" can I use to try and shift my dif.
before I risk snapping/breaking something in there.
My thinking is that it is simply sticking and I can loosen it manually
without opening things up. I recall it being stuck but eventually shifting a couple years ago.
And I'm hoping that still can work?
Or should I avoid doing the above idea due to the probability that the grease that keeps things moving in there,
is dried, or non - existent? Bringing an inevitable need to open up and grease.
thanks!
Here's the Discovery I transfercase illustration.
As you can see, the diff lock mechanism is comprised of a lot of little parts that require lubrication and operation to keep in top condition. Unfortunately, to do the job properly, you will need to open 'er up and get after it...
Hope this helps, all the parts are listed below in case you happen to break something or might possibly need replacement.
http://c7716.r16.cf2.rackcdn.com/RN-...ansfercase.jpg
18. RND640 LINK ARM - DIFF LOCK LT230
19. RND641 CLIP - CLEVIS PIN TSFR LVR LT230T
20. RND642 RETAINING CLIP
21. RND643 CLEVIS PIN - TRANSFER LEVER LT230T
22. RND644 RETAINER CLIP - CLEVIS PIN
23. RND642 RETAINING CLIP
24. RND645 PIVOT PIN - DIFF LOCK ROD
25. RND646 LINK ROD - TRANSFER BOX LT230
26. RND647 CLEVIS - TRANSFER LINKAGE LT 230
27. RND648 BUSH - GEAR SHAFT LT230
28. RNE157 NUT - M8
29. RNE450 NUT - M8
30. RNE469 NYLOC NUT - M8
31. RND649 LINK CONNECTING - LT230
32. RND650 GASKET - GEAR CHANGER LT85
33. RND651 SPRING PIN - TRANSFER LINK
34. RND456 WASHER - FLAT 8MM I.D. (used in many other places...)
35. RND652 HOUSING - DIFF LOCK SELECTOR LT230
36. RND653 O-RING TRANSFER CASE
37. RND654 O-RING TRANSFER CASE
38. RND651 SPRING PIN - TRANSFER LINK
--- RND655 CLIP
39. RND656 SWITCH - DIFF LOCK/REVERSE
40. RND657 NUT (again, used in many other places...)
41. RND658 GROMMET - TRANSFER LEVER - LT230
42. RND659 GASKET - TRANSFER LEVER TOP LT230
43. RND660 BALL END SEAT - TRANSFER
44. RND661 CLEVIS PIN
45. RND662 CLEVIS PIN
46. RNH313 CLIP - COUNTERSHAFT RETAIN DISCOVERY I
Note: I've edited my original post in this thread on page 1 with the above information. Also, made it a sticky for reference.
Great job on everyones part.
I do believe you forgot to send an offering to the "rover gods" it always help.
david
we talked about 3 weeks ago. my 95 d1 we just bought is haveing trouble when turning as if in lock but i have the case unlocked .what else could it be ? i've been under it lubed the linkage and so on .we now have front dr shaft out to drive .also when shaft was in ,it would wind up then sort of pop thats not normal i know
do you have a picture or view of the transfer case 95 d1,and thanks for your reply a few weeks ago.
Driving the newer transfer boxes (any with a diff in them) will be quickly destroyed when driven with either prop shaft removed, and the diff locked (if it's not locked, it won't move the truck).
Get thet box apart and figure out what is wrong with it, or just order a re-built unit now, since you already had a problem, and likely made it much worse driving on it...:eek:
Long story short, '97 disco, seized diff lock, etc etc.
Took the little guy apart, now in the process of taking the rust off the parts. Luckily it seems the diff lock works fine when applied manualy.
The problem I have is that I can't figure out what drives the diff lock. The shaft with the circular ring that holds the lever doesn't seem to move in or out, even with no more rust and well greased. I can't see a leverage point that would cause the diff lock to engage and disengage.
How does this bloody thing work?!!?:confused:
Question about the transfer case. I have a 1995 disco I and I can't get it into low gear. I took the top cover off the shifter and it has a rubber boot over the shifter. Can I cut a hole in the rubber and spray with pb buster that way or do i need to take the console out an do it properly?
Thanks,
Chris Archer
1995 disco I
Go ahead and drill out the rivets and take the rubber cover off properly. There's another cover that you'll probably wanna remove in there and a cheap little gasket you can replace for about 2$ ( RN part http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...top-lt230.aspx )
The rivets are 3/16" diameter if I remember correctly.
Some of you might find this helpful if you want to lubricate the CDL but don't know what it takes to get to it.
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=30849
has any one removed the flange nut on front of transfer case or flange nut on rear brake drum of 1995 disco. the picture in this forum shows nut on front drive shaft flange. thanks