The plot tickens (series III backfire/idle, brakes)

Hey guys, just a quick update...

Took the distributor cap off to inspect the points, and then turned the engine over ... forgetting to put the cap back on. I cranked it for about 15 seconds and then realized what I'd done.

Long story short, if the coil wasn't dead before, then it is now. The ignition lead is strong at 12V and the small lead going to the distributor is strong at 12V, but the lead coming out of the coil to the top of the distributor is dead dead dead. It will slowly discharge a few microvolts but doesnt seem to put putting out anything substantial.

This was confirmed by my the brother of my friend, a mechanic whos is a little red, he used a screw driver and tried to get it to arch off the block...didn't seem wise to me, but nonetheless, no spark.

without the vacuum it was pointless to try and bleed the brakes - right? So we got the back to bleed and called it a night.

So - does a coil fail slowly? Could it be my root cause of the backfiring, etc? or did I burn it out by cracking without the distributor cap in place? It got hot!

Next question - anyone know what kind of coil I need for my 2.5l?

While I had the cap of, I checked the points, they were new and clean, but pitted, going to replace the as well.

Also, to time them, I understand I need to turn the crankshaft - the pulley is held on with a large (guessing 34mm) bolt - nothing I have fits it, and its recessed into the pulley so I can't get a monkey wrench on it. It does not have the groves for a hand crank. Any ideas on turning it over to time the new points?

Finally - brakes, the front two bleeders are rusty and slick with oil and feel like they are stripping - any ideas on getting them open without damaging?

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Originally Posted by NickDawson

Hey guys, just a quick update...


Also, to time them, I understand I need to turn the crankshaft - the pulley is held on with a large (guessing 34mm) bolt - nothing I have fits it, and its recessed into the pulley so I can't get a monkey wrench on it. It does not have the groves for a hand crank. Any ideas on turning it over to time the new points?

Finally - brakes, the front two bleeders are rusty and slick with oil and feel like they are stripping - any ideas on getting them open without damaging?

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I'll have to re-read the first part to better understand what your saying.. ?

As for rotating the points cam(lobe) to open the points w/o using the front pulley.

1.) place car in 4th gear high range T/Case and slowy push it forward. have someone with you to step on the brakes

2.) you may be able to rotate the engine by grabbing and rotating the fan blade(Trans not in gear, car's wheels blocked) which will turn the lower pulley via the v-belt, though you may have the fan shroud in the way.


...Talbot

Here's a web album of a few pages of the book I mentioned to you in your other posting.... Click on the pics to enlarge them....TJR

http://picasaweb.google.com/88series...eat=directlink

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NickDawson

Hey guys, just a quick update...

So - does a coil fail slowly? Could it be my root cause of the backfiring, etc? or did I burn it out by cracking without the distributor cap in place? It got hot!

Also, to time them, I understand I need to turn the crankshaft - the pulley is held on with a large (guessing 34mm) bolt - nothing I have fits it, and its recessed into the pulley so I can't get a monkey wrench on it. It does not have the groves for a hand crank. Any ideas on turning it over to time the new points?

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Check the wiring, too, before you sign the death certificate on that coil. HT lead could be bad, the ground may be faulty, etc.

Also, if I were you I'd simply go purchase the correct socket for that front pulley so you can turn the crank. But since you don't seem to have the hand crank dog on the pulley, do something like pull the plugs to ensure the engine doesn't fire while you've got a wrench on that pulley... you'd get more than bruised knuckles if it did !

I assume that you have a double groove crank pulley and that's why the bolt is recessed. I'm in the same boat. The socket is 1-11/16" or 43mm. Tractor Supply usually stocks the 1-11/16" socket in 3/4" drive.

Nick

First, do you own the factory service manual for this truck? You are asking some pretty open ended questions that really require long and complicated answers and would best be solved by you acquiring and the manual and following its instructions step by step. The haynes manual also has a pretty good section on ignition troubleshooting.

short answers below:


>This was confirmed by my the brother of my friend, a mechanic whos is a little red,

are you saying he is a redneck? how is that pertinent to the story?

>he used a screw driver and tried to get it to arch off the block...didn't seem wise to me, but nonetheless, no spark.

arc, not arch. what else did he do. did he try to figure out why there is no spark?

>without the vacuum it was pointless to try and bleed the brakes - right?

wrong. no vacuum required. do it with the engine off.

>So - does a coil fail slowly?

never had one fail so I don't know

>Could it be my root cause of the backfiring, etc?

doubt it. most likely it is your haphazard diagnostic and tuning method.

>did I burn it out by cracking without the distributor cap in place?

doubt it. coil will still discharge through the points. do you see an arc there?

>It got hot!

something is not set up properly.

>Next question - anyone know what kind of coil I need for my 2.5l?

yes, the kind our hosts sell. end of story. you can get into parts substitution later in life when you have leanred more of the basics. if RN's price is to high then go somewhere else but don't talk about it here. just make sure you buy one for a LR.

>While I had the cap of, I checked the points, they were new and clean, >but pitted, going to replace the as well.

pitted is not the same as new and clean.

> the pulley is held on with a large (guessing 34mm) bolt - Any ideas on >turning it over to time the new points?

um, a 34 mm socket perhaps?

>Finally - brakes, the front two bleeders are rusty and slick with oil and >feel like they are stripping - any ideas on getting them open without >damaging?

if I get stuck bleeders I pull the rubber bits out of the cylinder and heat the bleeder with a MAPP torch. that usually works. if you can't fathom this then buy new cylinders. again, MAPP gas to get the lines undone or you'll be replacing them too. Keep a fire extinguisher close at hand any time you are using open flame on your vehicle. see what I mean about long answers?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by daveb

Nick

if I get stuck bleeders I pull the rubber bits out of the cylinder and heat the bleeder with a MAPP torch. that usually works. if you can't fathom this then buy new cylinders. again, MAPP gas to get the lines undone or you'll be replacing them too. Keep a fire extinguisher close at hand any time you are using open flame on your vehicle. see what I mean about long answers?

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Heat the cylinder body around the bleeder and/or brake line fitting, try not to put heat to the bleeder screw itself or brake line fitting. You're hoping to expand the metal of the cylinder body enough to allow those things to screw out.

Thanks all, I appreciate the input!

I may not be testing it correctly, but I checked every wire coming into and out of that coil. It was dark out at the time, I think we would have seen a spark if there was one. I don't want to be hasty in replacing it, but it really seems to have kicked the bucket.

I retract my statement about the points looking new and/or pitted - frankly I guess I dont know what they should look like.

I'll check around for that 1-11/16th socket today, thanks Jac04.

some pics, for what they are worth...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3522/...59b4aeeb_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2551/...844aed79_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2497/...45bb0624_m.jpg
this is the connection b/t the distributor and the carb - anyone think that cracked bushing could be a problem?

I don't want to ask the questions the wrong way or sound repetitive, but I feel pretty confident that the coil is dead. I'll call RN and see what my options are.
I'm still curious if the coil was slowing going bad and not delivering a good spark, wouldn't that account for my slight backfiring? Maybe that's wishful thinking.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NickDawson

Thanks all, I appreciate the input!

I'll check around for that 1-11/16th socket today, thanks Jac04.

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Save the receipt!

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Originally Posted by pisten-bully

Save the receipt!

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what am I missing?