Squeaky/Creaking Steering Wheel Shaft - How to fix?

So the steering shaft (basically the section right below the steering wheel and right above where the shaft disappears into the dash) has started to squeak/creak really really loud to the point where its embarrasing making turns...especially in parking lots. Its pretty ridiculous actually.

I took the steering wheel completly off, but the actual steering shaft area that is producing the noise is not accessable from up top or from outside the metal shaft it resides in. Or mabye it is and I'm not doing something right?

I tried getting some WD40 to leak down the shaft but to no avail.

Can anyone give me any clues on how to tackle this problem?

I presume you are running a steering column that is either late IIA or SIII vintage. If that is the case there should be a small bearing at the top of the column tube that support the column itself. The other support is the two bearings in the steering box at the bottom. If it is a SIII column you will also have the steering lock next to the ignition barrel.

Given this assumption you need to do three things.
1. Make sure the steering box is topped off with oil. This is no cost, easy and can't hurt.
2. Remove the steering wheel. Check for signs of galling where the steering wheel rotates. Now take that can of WD40 and out it in your tool box for a rainy day. Run a little gear oil down the inside of the column or at worst a squirt of PB Blaster. Make sure that top bearing gets a good soaking.
3. Remove the steering lock and check for galling. Lubricate everything and reassemble.

4. Go slightly deaf and ignore it until something breaks.

Cheers
Gregor

I had this problem once in my 69 109 and sprayed WD-40 up between the steering column and the collar that the steering wheel attaches to. If I remember correctly it didn't fix it immediately but lessened the noise and then a day or so later the noise went away completely and hasn't come back.

Brent

This is where the squeaking is coming from....its basically inside the metal shaft I am pointing at. I guess I'll try to squirt more WD or PB blaster down past the bearing in the steering wheel. Is it easy to remove the bearing?

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7696.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7695.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7699.jpg

might be the horn contact

Quote:

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Originally Posted by leafsprung

might be the horn contact

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Already went through all of that. The sqeaking is coming from further below the horn...almost where the steering shaft disappears into the dash.

I sprayed the WD-40 up into the collar that is further up from your finger towards the steering wheel. I would give 'break free' a try and spray a fair amount of it up there while turning the wheel back and forth. I know that someone will tell you how that won't do a damn thing but that is what I did and it worked - potentially I had a different squeak or squeal but this fix is very easy and simple to try.

If you are not familiar with break free it is available at gun stores.

Brent

Put some paper towels on the floor of the Rover to catch any drips

The trouble is that there is nothing to make contact inside the column at that point. On the late IIAs columns the steering shaft is supported by the bearing you can see at the very top of the column; on the early IIAs it is a bushing. After that there is nothing until you get to the bearing at the top of the box.

THis leads to one of two conclusions:
1. There is something that has worked its way into the shaft at that point.
2. Something is rubbing and because of the design of the column and it's support it sounds like it is coming from the point you describe.

From memory you can just pull that top bearing out and replace it. Make sure the preload spring is still good while your there. Is there any radial or axial play is the steering wheel? Another cheap thing to check is that the column mountings are tight, both at the bulkhead and in the engine bay.

One from left field here. Have you lubricated the indicator doohicky as mine sqeaked something fearsome until I sprayed some lube into the wheel housing?

Squeaks are rather hard to diagnose over the interweb.

Cheers
Gregor

PS. Your truck looks great with the truck cab.

Mine used to squeek. Found it to be the cancelling wheel on the turn signal stalk. Might be worth a shot to take the unit off and see if it goes away.
Jason T.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LaneRover

I sprayed the WD-40 up into the collar that is further up from your finger towards the steering wheel. I would give 'break free' a try and spray a fair amount of it up there while turning the wheel back and forth. I know that someone will tell you how that won't do a damn thing but that is what I did and it worked - potentially I had a different squeak or squeal but this fix is very easy and simple to try.

If you are not familiar with break free it is available at gun stores.

Brent

Put some paper towels on the floor of the Rover to catch any drips

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I was going to spray up in the collar...but I ended up taking the entire steering wheel off. Tried spraying WD40 directly down the shaft....still squeaking. I guess I will have to somehow get that bearing out?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greenmeanie

The trouble is that there is nothing to make contact inside the column at that point. On the late IIAs columns the steering shaft is supported by the bearing you can see at the very top of the column; on the early IIAs it is a bushing. After that there is nothing until you get to the bearing at the top of the box.

THis leads to one of two conclusions:
1. There is something that has worked its way into the shaft at that point.
2. Something is rubbing and because of the design of the column and it's support it sounds like it is coming from the point you describe.

From memory you can just pull that top bearing out and replace it. Make sure the preload spring is still good while your there. Is there any radial or axial play is the steering wheel? Another cheap thing to check is that the column mountings are tight, both at the bulkhead and in the engine bay.

One from left field here. Have you lubricated the indicator doohicky as mine sqeaked something fearsome until I sprayed some lube into the wheel housing?

Squeaks are rather hard to diagnose over the interweb.

Cheers
Gregor

PS. Your truck looks great with the truck cab.

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I will attempt to pull out the bearing and replace it as well as the spring. But the squeak is definitly coming from inside the shaft where my finger is pointing. Bearing does not squeak at all...nor does the turn signal indicator wheel. I checked top and bottom mounting and they are tight. Steering column has no play whatsoever. Maybe once I get that bearing out I can get some WD or PB blaster down the steering shaft. It literally sounds like a squeaky old door....like the kind you see in haunted house movies or scooby doo episodes. I have a case of the haunted steering wheel shaft. :thumb-up:

Oh and thanks for the compliment. I just need to get the back part of the truck cab painted to somewhat go with everything else. I've discovered the truck cab is great for summer with no windows as its just as cool as not having a top and keeps the sun off your head like a bikini top.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7704.jpg

You say you sprayed WD down the shaft. What the others are alluding to is whether you lubed the horn contact ring at the top of the column i.e the large copper bushing on the outside of the column. This is a fairly early form of slip ring for the horn connection to the steering wheel and can produce sqeaks. Lube inside the collar with the mating contact when the steering wheel is off too.

Cheers
Gregor

Quote:

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Originally Posted by leafsprung

might be the horn contact

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I checked that as well. The noise is not coming from anywhere near the steering wheel itself.....its literally down in the shaft...basically where the shaft disappears into the dash.

Not trying to sound alarmist but the only time I have had a steering column that creaked, and I mean really creaked like an old door as opposed to have an "I've not been lubricated in a while" kind of squeak was on my 101. In that case the reason was a failed bottom bearing down in the steering box was allowing the end of the column to ride on the casting instead of the ball bearings. The final outcome was a steering failure, fortunately at low speed in my driveway. The reason it sounded like it was at the top of the column was all the bracing holding it in place made the bottom section stiff so it did not resonate.

If lubing the top end doesn't help it might pay to look at the bottom end. Make sure the bolts holding the steering box are still tight. Pull the side plate and check for water in the housing and then have a good look at the scroll and if possible the support bearings.

I think these tings are a pretty long shot but, if you haven't been in there before it is always fun having a poke around and seeing how things work.

Cheers
Gregor

Quote:

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Originally Posted by greenmeanie

Not trying to sound alarmist but the only time I have had a steering column that creaked, and I mean really creaked like an old door as opposed to have an "I've not been lubricated in a while" kind of squeak was on my 101. In that case the reason was a failed bottom bearing down in the steering box was allowing the end of the column to ride on the casting instead of the ball bearings. The final outcome was a steering failure, fortunately at low speed in my driveway. The reason it sounded like it was at the top of the column was all the bracing holding it in place made the bottom section stiff so it did not resonate.

If lubing the top end doesn't help it might pay to look at the bottom end. Make sure the bolts holding the steering box are still tight. Pull the side plate and check for water in the housing and then have a good look at the scroll and if possible the support bearings.

I think these tings are a pretty long shot but, if you haven't been in there before it is always fun having a poke around and seeing how things work.

Cheers
Gregor

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Thanks Gregor for this info. I will definitly look into this. I've noticed on occasion that there is a popping in the steering....so I'm afraid this may be the culprit.

Is there anything difficult about getting into the steering box? Anything to look out for or something that is difficult?

thanks again.

The best thing is to take it off the truck and strip it on the bench and then follow the manual. The only gotcha is that all the ball bearings will fall out of the burman nut at some point. It helps if you only open it up on a clean, contained area. Doing this over a dirty garage floor among years of acummulated crap will have you spending hours hunting them down and wondering if you got them all. Count the balls out and count them back in again. When reassembling coat each ball ingrease to hold them in position while you thred the nut on the scroll.

Oh and pay good attention to the condition of the ball bearing races. If lubrication has been questionable they can often show spalling as a sign of fatigue failure. If present, this pitting will be obvious when you look.

Cheers
Gregor

Perhaps the mounting bolts on the frame end are loose causing the column to rub on the firewall or the mounting brackets?
Jason T.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jason T.

Perhaps the mounting bolts on the frame end are loose causing the column to rub on the firewall or the mounting brackets?
Jason T.

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Checked every single bolt. All are tight. Nothing loose. The problem lies within the steering box or inside the steering shaft...just above the steering box. I took some pics of the setup I have.

I wanted to take the steering box apart but unfortunately I don't have the proper took to get it apart. Any suggestions on where to get this tool?

**Also there is a drain plug on the side of the steering box. Can lubricant be added through this? Drained? Please forgive me for the stupid questions....

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7729.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7726.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7728.jpg


Steering setup for reference....

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...IMG_2779-1.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7713.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7715.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7716.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7717.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NC Rover

I wanted to take the steering box apart but unfortunately I don't have the proper too[l] to get it apart. Any suggestions on where to get this tool?

**Also there is a drain plug on the side of the steering box. Can lubricant be added through this? Drained? Please forgive me for the stupid questions....

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Is the specialty tool you are talking about the puller to remove the steering drop arm? If so, I imagine that there are other ways to get the steering drop arm off, including using a generic gear or bearing puller.

As for the drain plug on the side, that may be the adjuster that sets the amount of backlash in the steering box. The adjuster has a screw with a square-drive male end and a locking (jamb) nut which holds the set screw in place.

Also, I'm not familiar with coil spring conversions, but it would appear that the steering track rod is bent in the last photo. Perhaps it's an optical illusion in the photo--It's the rod that connects the two swivels together so that both weels steer simultaneously. Perhaps this is normal on these conversions for clearance purposes, I don't know, but it surely must weaken the steering system during heavy off-roading.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NC Rover

I wanted to take the steering box apart but unfortunately I don't have the proper took to get it apart. Any suggestions on where to get this tool?

**Also there is a drain plug on the side of the steering box. Can lubricant be added through this? Drained? Please forgive me for the stupid questions....





http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...r/IMG_7728.jpg


Steering setup for reference....

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...IMG_2779-1.jpg

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OK first things first. The plug on the side of the steering box is to adjust the backlash. It's not a bad place to start. Undo the big jam nut and then gently tighten the inner square head nut thing. You should not make it much more than finger tight but you'll know when it's right because the steering wheel won't feel vague any more.

If that does n't fix things the next thing to do is pull the side plate off. Drain the oil through a paper filter and look for metallic nasties. THat should tell you if any bearings are collapsed. Also look at the condition of the groove in the side plate and the matching part of the burman nut. Look for signs of heavy wear or galling.

To remove the steering box I had the same issue. Pullers just were not working. I ended up making a U shaped shim out of .062 sheet steel to protect the steering box housing. Having removed the nut I then went to town with a suitably sized pickle fork and off she came.

As a point of interest you can just see a plug in the top of the steering box in the top picture. That is the fill plug but on yours it seems to be pretty crowded by the brake servo.

Cheers
Gregor

I had the EXACT same problem and was equally convinced the sound was coming from the steering column. I checked everything, oiled/lubed everything and still it persisted... so annoying.

I eventually sourced the noise to a dry bushing at the bottom of the first steering arm - these look almost exactly like tie rod ends, usually with a rubber seal over the joint. I peeled back the rubber boot, hit it with wd40, packed the joint with grease and voila - after months of putting up with that creeeeaaakkkking - it was gone.

Makes the old girl a pleasure to drive again... although now I can hear a few other new sounds... Ah, Land Rover livin'


I'll be dollars to doughnuts thats what's up with yours... get a friend to turn the wheel while you place your hands on the joint and you will feel it vibrating. Good luck.