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Greetings to all. New member here. I have a 1966 II (or is it IIA) 88", there is fluid leaking out around the clutch pedal. I have topped the resevoir off and cannot seem to generate any pressure. Am I correct in assuming that my problem lies within the slave cylinder, or should I be looking at the master cylinder instead, or both. If it is the slave do I have to take the fender off to get at it?
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
It's a IIa.
If the fluid is leaking above the pedal, it's the clutch master cyl. The slave is down on the right hand side behind the engine.
Yes, you have to take the fender off. It's easy - two bolts on top, 4 or 5 down the bulkhead, a few on the radiator support, and disconnecting the 4 wires going to the indicator lights.
Then you have to disconnect the two lines to the clutch master - one is to the res, so you might want to be careful that the fluid doesn't all leak out of that. I usually take the res right off. It's one bolt after you disconnect it from the brake and clutch masters.
The clutch pedal assembly comes right off with 6 or 8 bolts through the bulkhead. Then there are 6 or so screws on a flat rectangle cover on top of the pedal assembly. Then there is a bolt that connects the clutch pedal to the master plunger.
I'd suggest getting a new master instead of rebuilding - they are cheap.
When you put it back together, bench bleed it first. The connect everything and bleed it from the slave. There is usually a round hole in the bottom of the bulkhead with a black plastic or rubber cover. You can get access to the slave from there.
I use a back bleeder, but I imagine you could bleed it with someone depressing the clutch for you.
Make sure to get the correct fluid. I think it's castrol gt lma? Just ask RN, they'll give you the right stuff. Get a big canister - it's cheap and you'll use it when you do your brakes.
Good luck.
Not really........you can make a lateral cut in the top of the fender with your angle grinder and peel the fender back, when you are finished pop rivett a cover strip over the cutQuote:
Originally Posted by PI Guy
note This type of fix usually pisses the purists off :nono: :D:D:D
I just did this job on a '71 IIA 88 at the weekend.
Assuming it is a LHD.
- Remove the splash guard and steerign box shield from the wheel well.
- Disconnect the clutch pipes from the master cylinder.
- Undo the six screws securing the pedal tower to the bulkhead.
- It is quite simple to manouver the pedal tower assembly out through the wheel arch. I may be wrong but the earlier single circuit barking system trucks should be easier than my later dual circuit as there is no servo to avoid.
Its pretty simple and avoids any major disassembly or modifications to the bodywork.
Cheers
Gregor
Gregor, your shortcut assumes the clutch plunger will be adjusted correctly - using your way, you'd have to take the whole thing out again to adjust it and then rebleed.
Taking the wing off is not major.
Ordered the parts today from RN. Ended up going w/ just a rebuild kit to save a little $ (just bought a house, so for now I have to cut some corners).I started removing the wing tonight. Is there any way to disconnect the side markers without cutting the wires. I haven't cut them yet and really don't want to. Thanks for all the input.
There should be bullets that pull out... however, if they've never come apart before now, at this point, they may not come apart....
Well, not come apart without some "persuasion".... ;)
"Your shortcut assumes the clutch plunger will be adjusted correctly - using your way, you'd have to take the whole thing out again to adjust it and then rebleed."
1st thing to do is measure the position of the nut on the old master cyl before removing it. Setting your new master cyl to this dimension will put you pretty close to where you need it to be thus minimizing the need for adjustment.
2nd - Before dismantling everything I was able to get the top cover off to check the condition of the slave. I have a short 13mm spanner with a bent head that allows me to make adjustments in situ.
Cheers
Gregor
The top of the wing on a 66 IIa is totally different. It covers far more of the pedal box. The wing doesn't have the cutout for the booster/master.Quote:
Originally Posted by greenmeanie
See pic:
http://www.roxs.us/images/series14.jpg
Well.............. the bullets came out easily..........the wing is off........the fittings are sprayed down to loosen them(hopefully).......but I discovered that my slave is leaking too. Looking at it quickly I decided that tomorrow I will try to get at it from the interior by removing the floor panel, I realize that some stuff has to be taken off from below but now......... is this the right way to get at the slave. It appears that it is to me but maybe I'm missing something?
Comparitively easy access to the clutch master cyl and dual system servo assisted brakes.
Flame suit on.
Sorry man! I wasn't trying to make it difficult for you, I was trying to make it easy for him! :thumb-up:Quote:
Originally Posted by greenmeanie
It wasn't that hard............really.
Well, she's all back together (the master cylinder that is), and the clutch even works! Didn't screw w/ the slave yet figured I'd give just the master a go and so far so good. Next job is putting all the other stuff back on. Thanks again, got some positive reinforcement here from this thread. I'm sure I've got more questions.......I just haven't started the next phase yet. :thumb-up: