LIFTS-copied from the RR classic page

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/im...cons/icon1.gif LIFTS
Dustin,
Like JeffB, I have tried several combinations on several Rovers and I've come full circle back to the old school original:

HD OME 2" lift, swaybar disconnects, Drop kit in rear, and 265/75-16 Mud Terrain tires. Why? Because it works!!

I have wheeled in some awesome places around the world, competed in Land Rover Trek, several trials courses, completed all of my
LR certifications off road, been off road in the military for over 20 years and I have settled on this combo due to its all around capabilities, affordability, reliability etc. I came to this decision after training under and picking the brains of guys like Bob Burns, Tom Collins, Mark MacDonald (US Camel Trophy team members and trainers)and a whole host of other guys who could leave 99% of us in the dirt(literally) in a totally stock vehicle, and this is the combo that alot of them settle on.

Now I'm not knocking taking a Rover to the extreme(as I have done) and dont want to start an argument over what product is best etc. I'm just saying you need to ride with a few guys who have various lifts etc. and see what you like and more importantly, honestly decide what you want out of the vehicle.

My warning though:
IF THIS YOUR DAILY DRIVER, BE VERY CAREFUL HOW MUCH YOU MODIFY IT!! YOU WILL HATE DRIVING A FULLY MODIFIED ROVER ON THE ROAD!!

Even at my peak in offroading(3 times a month for a full week end) a few years ago, my total time offroad was still less than 10% of my total driving in the vehicle. So once you realize this, you start to see my point. Plus
so many guys put on this big lift and tires, with no protection, winch, mechanical repairs etc.

HAVING A CAPABLE OFF ROADER IS A COMPLETE PACKAGE!!!
LIFT, TIRES, FLEXIBILITY, PROTECTION, RELIABILITY, RECOVERABILITY, TRAINING, EXPERIENCE!!!!

So here is a hypothetical situation, and my recommendation to a person who has a Rover and wants to put money into it and knows(after going as a passenger on a few events) he or she wants to invest in a proper set up and kit that will ensure success!!

1. Have candidate Land Rover inspected by a competent Rover mechanic, and address all the things that need repairing first!!
-in other words, having a car with no brakes, head gasket leaks, no gear oil in the diff(due to a leak), slipping tranny is a big nogo!!

2. Go now and put together a proper recovery kit!! This does not entail going to Walmart and buying a 10 dollar strap. Buy a proper recovery kit:
2-4 3" or 4" x 20' or 30' recovery straps
2-4 D rings
Tree Protector Strap
Gloves/safety glasses
Depth Gage for water obstacles(I use a fiberglass drover stick(6')
Proper First Aid kit
Tool kit/shovel/pick
Choke chains
Saw/Lopers
Hi-lift jack and acc.-know how to use!!(Bill Burkes recovery video)
5 Gallon Water jug
Survival kit for region/weather you will be in
CB Radio/Cell phone
AAA Gold!!!!!! nothing better than paying only $99.00 to get car 250 miles back home!!
See any of the many articles online concerning proper offroad kit, you will find lists of a proper kit(this is just me sitting here trying to remember)
-All of the above goes in a heavy duty box(metal or hd plastic) and gets secured down with HD straps in the rear of the car(you should see what a 35lb tool box does after a car rolls off road--it WILL Kill you!!

3. Now join a club and get some training from competent people on off roading/recover/winch use/tread lightly.
If the person training you looks like he's out of "Deliverance", is drinking a beer while offering advice and holding a six pack in the other hand, or says "f%$ck it, go for it!!" alot, than you are hanging around the wrong off road crowd.
Buy Bill Burkes videos on Recovery/winch use etc and watch and learn. Better yet save some money and attend one of his courses. Also attend a LR dealer event, some are really good, some are soso, but you'll get some experience and meet Rover people.

4. Once you have gotten the vehicle up to par, decide what lift/tires/flex you want. Lets say you go with my recommendation:
-OME HD lift with shocks: $600 with you installing
-Rear drop kit: $150 you install
-Some MT or AT tire of your choice: $500-750(I no longer buy AT tires-too much of a compromise,and are useless if any rain/wet conditions-plus the newer generation of MTs are much quieter, and wear incredibly well.
265/75-16 will fit on RR Classic with the 2" lift, you may need to adjust your steering limiting bolts out a little in case of some rubbing on frame. Disco 1s will need small amount of rear fender trimming(you wont really see if done correctly and touched up with paint)
-Sway bar disconnects(go drive one with out bars and some lift--it sucks on the highway) if you have sway bars. If not prepare for flopsy mopsy!!(my 87 RR had none, my sons 91 has a front only, my wifes Disco has both)
OK, now you've got some clearance and tires, you've taken a big step!!

5. Now we need to protect all that soft underbelly!! In order of precedence:
-Diff and pinion guards
-Steering guard/tie rod protection(try steering with a tie rod folded in half)
-Fuel tank guard
-Transfer box/tranny guard
-Sill/Rocker panel guards(ie rock sliders)
-Steel Bumpers

6. Now you're tired of other folks winching you out:
-Proper winch mount or bumper
-winch rated for 2x you GVWR(some will say this is overkill)ie about 10K lbs
-Proper winch accessories kit
-Maintain your winch and use it properly, respect it as something that can kill you or other people!!

7. A quick note on roof racks-dont overload!!, most racks, much less the roof itself, are only meant to store about 200lbs max-all the crap up there raises your center of gravity exponentially. Remember to figure weight of rack into roof load!!

8. Snorkel- all US spec Coil Rovers are V-8s, so the snorkel is for show only(some will say cold air induction/dust), dont worry I have one too, it looks cool!!

9. Taller lifts-- Here is the deal, easier to buy 2" and decide to build more later (and sell your used 2" components)than to build $5000 in suspension and then figure out it sucks most of the time on the road and try to go back.

10. Always continue to improve your training, use common sense, if you have that funny feeling in the back of your noggin, dont do it!! Dont let people pressure you into doing what doesnt seem right or is out of your ability/comfort zone. Its easier to turn around and go back than have to abandon your vehicle and walk out!!

11. Dont be afraid to ask questions!!!!!!!!!! Buy beg or borrow any of the Bill Burke videos, Camel videos, and get familiar with one of the best resources written, Tom Sheppards "Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide".

And finally, myself and many of the professional LR guys would rather you turn up with no modifications, proper kit and an open mind than a Rover with 10" lift and a chip on your shoulder!![/

I find your posts to be quite informative........ :thumb-up: thanks Dave

dido dave .marc

I just put a 1" inch lift on my "96" Disco. W/ 265 75 16 AT. M-F I commute to work. I take the Rover off road on the weekends Would you suggest a sway bar? It is a little sloppy on the highway. I have the Bill Burke video on recovery. Would you reccomend the Trophy dvd also. I also just joined a club to learn more first hand ! I enjoyed your thread. See you on the trails! regards Jeff !!

Jeff,
Are the original sway bars off the truck? I have had several Rovers with and without, I like to have them now, and use disconnects(several sources on those). The CTrophy videos are all cool and show a whole lot of different "stuck up to roof" situations and the solutions to getting out of those. You may get some rub with the MD lift and the 265's, you can adjust front steering stops some, and a little cutting helps in rear. Enjoy your new setup!!
Cheers,
Jack

Jack, I have some rubbing in the rear. Should I put heavier springs or should I add more lift? Do you know of the interior light on driver's side only does not go on when I open the door. However the light will go on if I open any other door except driver's side. Regards Jeff:thumb-up:

Jeff,
Dont let yourself be rubbed in the Rear......

Since you only did the Med Duty lift but are running 265/75-16s you will have to do some trimming, normally I only recommend 245 width with this lift, but thats ok. Dont mix the different springs, or you will have a very tail hi disco. either jack up each side one at a time in rear, or find a ditch or ramp you can back up on and see where the interference is. It should be at rear of wheelwell, so I usually take a dremel or cutter with radial bit(wear eye protection!!) and cut off a little lower rear lip right in front of mud flap, this will cure the problem. you may have to cut and retry couple of times. Get some touch up paint to cover the bare aluminum. Some guys just mask off the whole lower 2-3 inches of body(doors and rear fender) and spray on rhino liner(you can buy in aeresol can now), since it is easy to touch up.
You will probably have to adjust the front steering limiters in a little to keep the front tires from rubbing the radius arms. S
Some rubbing is expected, but try to get it down to minimum.
I would run the Med duty lift for a year or so, then see if it meets your needs, you can always easily sell it and go to HD or bigger.
As far as you door light goes, I would say your door switch is broken or bad. look between the hinges and you will see a plunger style switch, held in by a tiny phillips screw, remove and spray with elec. contact cleaner, and try it again. If that doesnt fix it, order a new one.
While you are at it, spray every door hinge, lock cyl(ie use the little red tube with the can of spray to get in the lock hole), door check etc with some sort of lube, WD40, lithium etc.
Hope this helps,
Jack

Jack, Thanks I appreciate the feed back! I decided that I hate the rubbing! I ordered the OME HD 2" lift kit. I do not want to mickey mouse it. I want it to be right! I have 265 / 75/ 16 that should fit ok. What do you think? I will check out the electrical. Regards Jeff

Question - I have had the OME HD setup for a year now and I just purchased some 265/75 m/t and took a little trip off-road and I had major rubbing in the rear, I had trimmed and extended the rear fender thinking I would avoid the whole rubbing issue, but I hit the wheel arch where my rear door is, cut my new tires up a little :mad: will extended bump stops cure my problem? Spring Spacers? body lift?

I used spring spacers with your set up on my classic to stop rubbing. I trimmed a little of the inner rear wheel well just to be sure. If you have poly bushings this kit will not work, I tore out my bushings the first time I drove it with stock trailing arms and 4 1/2" of lift. I had to upgrade to rovertym arms with genuine bushings. the rovertym arms have the option of spacing the rear wheel back some. Its worth it, I now run 255/85's with out any rub, at full flex.

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Originally Posted by DiscoRover

Question - I have had the OME HD setup for a year now and I just purchased some 265/75 m/t and took a little trip off-road and I had major rubbing in the rear, I had trimmed and extended the rear fender thinking I would avoid the whole rubbing issue, but I hit the wheel arch where my rear door is, cut my new tires up a little :mad: will extended bump stops cure my problem? Spring Spacers? body lift?

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This is really strange because the way the suspension is setup it as the axle goes up it also gets pushed slightly to the rear so if it's hitting by the door then something does not seem right it should be hitting at the rear of the wheel well.

As for all the others with 265/75's you will still rub even with heavy springs and spacers if you do any serious off roading and you don't trim your rear quarter panels. It does not look bad just do it before you tear up your rear quarter off roading and need to do body work. Unless you never do any off roading in which case don't worry about it.

The cut out is pretty easy if you have a dremel or something similar. I just backed up onto a curb and then taped off a straight line from 0-2" in line with the wheel well and cut along the edge of the tape.

Yes, I trimmed the rear part almost like that and I extended it out with a
1/1 square tube so that parts alright, I masked off a the part that was rubbing (where the door is) and trimmed it, I might just trim the whole thing because it looks hacked

But what would cause the rear to hit the fender by the door? Like this wasnt no little rubbing, Its like my tire would tuck and then it would bend the metal outwards and slice into my tires every single time i hit a bump

It did the same thing on both sides, worse on the right though

I am not no hard core rock crawlin rover dude, I have been off-road a few times, I am part of a club and we have like 4 events every year, plus the times I go with just a few people, but it wasnt untill i got my steel wheels and M/T's that this started to happen....

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Originally Posted by DiscoRover

I am not no hard core rock crawlin rover dude, I have been off-road a few times, I am part of a club and we have like 4 events every year, plus the times I go with just a few people, but it wasnt untill i got my steel wheels and M/T's that this started to happen....

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I can't speak for all Disco I's but on mine I have plenty of room in front. Is anything bent at the rear Arm? trailing arms?

The only other thing I can think of is and this is just theory I have nothing factual to base this on. Since you said it started with you new steel wheels. I think you mentioned that you have 265/75 tires. If you bought the American Racing Steels they have a smaller offset then the stock wheels. I think it's about 3/4" to maybe an 1" this would give you a slightly wider stance couple this with the wider tires and you might have an issue. Just an idea. If you have any car ramps what I did to test fex is put one under the front passenger side and one under the drivers rear side. I also incorporated a 6" curbe into this and then drive on them. This should push your rear wheel pretty far into the wheel well so you can see what it's doing.

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by JSalyer

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/im...cons/icon1.gif LIFTS

8. Snorkel- all US spec Coil Rovers are V-8s, so the snorkel is for show only(some will say cold air induction/dust), dont worry I have one too, it looks cool!!

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First and foremost. JSalyer, Great posts.:thumb-up: Some of the more intelligent posts and responses I've seen. Anyhow, This may be a stupid question, but I've seen this mentioned in more than one place now. Why is the snorkel considered for show on a V8? Does it not have any practical use? Is it mainly considered for diesel because of the additional intake help from a turbo setup? Otherwise the V8 has to work quit a bit harder and get air....? Just wondering, as it seems outside of some slight loss of performance, it would still keep the intake free of water. Thanks, keep those posts coming!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jahrasta

First and foremost. JSalyer, Great posts.:thumb-up: Some of the more intelligent posts and responses I've seen. Anyhow, This may be a stupid question, but I've seen this mentioned in more than one place now. Why is the snorkel considered for show on a V8? Does it not have any practical use? Is it mainly considered for diesel because of the additional intake help from a turbo setup? Otherwise the V8 has to work quit a bit harder and get air....? Just wondering, as it seems outside of some slight loss of performance, it would still keep the intake free of water. Thanks, keep those posts coming!

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I dont know Mr JSlayer's reasoning for calling snorkles on V8's "show" but if they are hooked up correctly the will prevent hydro-locking the engine should you wade too deep. Your ECU and other electrical equipment may be fried but at least your internal moving engine parts will be free from damage (hopefully).

There are a lot of factors in fording deep water, for both petrol and diesel, besides just having a snorkel.