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What is the average cost to galvanize all the pieces on a Land Rover?
The places I've contacted are being a bit coy: they quote minimum prices to do stuff (150.oo) , but I can't get anyone to give me a rough estimate for a complete galvanizing job---Soooooo, has anyone had a load of parts done lately, and what was the cost?
Bonus question:
How is it calculated?
weight? square inches covered? amount of zinc used?
Calculated by weight. From what I've heard, most places won't pick up such a small job as a single Land Rover provides. Most guys will go in with others to have a large job for the galvanizers.
Colin
Galvanizing jobs are calculated by weight. Usually goes in 250 pound increments. That is, in your case, the first 250 pounds is $150. That's a very good rate by the way. The next 250 is $150 more. So it's more cost effective to have enough that you are going in with more like 500 pounds and not 300. That's why you piggy back. Another factor is that all your little parts have to be wired up. If you go in there with a load that's going to cost Mr Yard Boss two hours or more in labor to tie wire all your stuff to a frame he will tell you to take a walk. Also, things tend to get lost in the hot tank. Best to wire the stuff yourself to be sure it doesn't end up in the bottom of the zinc tank.
So the estimate is really on you. That said, I would just pay whatever. Just having a facility (or multiple) say they will do it is gold. Also it is very good practice to tip Mr Yard Boss a couple twentys, a case of cold beer or the like. I bought the yard gift cards for the local barbecue joint last time. Now they look forward to me coming in there with my piddly little piles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea
I paid $250 at Atlantic Galvanizing last spring to do the parts to my Series 3. That's the minimum. DO tip the yard boss and/or leave him beer. I have heard multiple stories that they will do a better job when this happens. Worked for me.
Definitely count your parts when you drop it off and make sure they write it down. If you can tie your own stuff together, do it. Welding wire is cheap, and use lots of it.
I took mine in just cleaned up, with all the old stuff on there. It turned out 8 of 10. If I had to do it again, I'd sandblast first to give them a virgin surface.
Any advice on what to use to wire the smaller parts up? And/or best method for stringing them up? And should you wire them to some other "big" parts (door frames, bonnet frame, etc) to ensure they stay together?Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea
In the Memphis area, there was a per pound charge to clean and a per pound charge to galvanize. With a minimum of $350.00. I don’t remember the per pound price .40 to clean and .41 to galvanize, somewhere in that neighborhood. One thing to be aware of, if you have moving parts such as a hinge, it will not “hinge” when you get it back. I was able to heat it with a torch while working the hinge to remove some of the coating.
A tree made of angle stock bolted together is fine. Use steel wire. Heavy wire better. Not multistrand, just something like baling wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind
Hi Everybody!
I just got all my car's galvanizing done!
I saw an article in the British "Classic Land Rovers" magazine about another stateside rover that had all their stuff done by Art Galvanizing in Cleveland Ohio.
I contacted them and they said they would be happy to do it so I sent it in 3 large boxes(!!!). It took a few weeks, but my dad picked them up for me a few days ago and I'm SO HAPPY! ALMOST everything looks like brand new! The only thing that didnt come out prefect was the front bumper, but they said it was due to poor quality metal ( it is a newly made, after-market bumper that we modified by drilling and cutting for a winch). They dipped it twice, but it just wouldn't hold a uniform finish when it cooled. Oh. well, the winch will cover up most of the splotches!
Total cost for almost 200 lbs. of parts was only 150.oo.
I recommend them highly!
Art Galvanizing Works Inc.
3935 Valley rd.
Cleveland, Ohio 44109
216-749-0020
You can spot treat the bare spots. Wire brush the area with a stainless steel brush. Apply solder flux and heat the area with mapp torch. Sometimes you can spread the surrounding zinc into the bad spot and sometimes you have to add more. You can get zinc in the plumbing department.
Also use heat and a blow gun to clear out threaded holes before chasing threads with a tap
Glad everything worked out ! Invest in a good tap and die set.Quote:
Originally Posted by michelle
Cheers 🍻