Getting no spark after dumb mistake

A month ago, I accidentally knocked over the oil-bath air cleaner while working on my 1963 Series IIA. Only after I had reassembled it and tried to start the car did I realize that oil had traveled down the hose into the carburetor. It wouldn't start as a result. I ended up breaking down the carburetor to clean it all up. The car started after that, but it ran rough and cut out after a few unhappy cycles, with lots of black smoke out of the exhaust. I cleaned the spark plugs and restarted. Same thing. I did this many, many times, hoping that I would eventually burn all the oil out of the system. At one point, I got it to fire for about one minute before it gave out. After that, I have been unable to get the engine to catch at all. In fact, I no longer seem to be getting a spark and I don't know if it's related to my previous efforts. I replaced the coil, the points, and the condenser, as well as the high-tension lead and spark plug leads. I also checked the wiring. Still no luck. Any help fixing the problem would be most appreciated.

Verify that you're getting 12v to the coil. Verify coil ground is good and block to frame ground connection is good. The coil lead should spark to ground on the frame or block if it's working. If getting spark through coil, then verify spark through distributor by holding a wire/plug to a good ground and turning engine over. If no spark, likely distributor issue (cap, rotor, condenser setting). If spark, likely fuel issue or timing issue if distributor bumped or turned at all.

A little oil down the intake is unlikely to hurt these engines.

JP, thanks for the help and I apologize for my ignorance about all things electrical. I have verified that my coil and high-tension lead are good by hooking the coil directly to the car battery (for just a second) and holding the lead near the block. But when I reinstall the coil and hook up the side wires, I get no spark from the high-tension lead when I crank the engine. If it helps, I have verified that there is a current between the + and - sides of the coil. Any further advice? Thanks.

So the hot side of the coil comes from the ignition switch (negative earth vehicle) and the ground side goes to the distributor. When the points are closed, the coil is charging, and when they open, the energy stored in the coil is "dumped" to ground at the right spark plug based on where the distributor rotor is at the moment (timing). If you have a plug wire running from the coil to the block with a spark plug on the other end, it should spark every time the points open. If that's not happening, you have a problem in the distributor unrelated to timing, such as points not opening, bad condenser, or very commonly, the point base plate is not properly electrically isolated. There's a plastic isolator that goes on one side of the points that has to be there. You can check that the points are working by checking the continuity between each "point" of the points when they are open. Both sides should not have a connection to ground when they are open. But it's been a super long time since I messed with a points system. I convert them all over to electronic ignition, as it is much less of a hassle, in my opinion. I think our hosts even sell a kit.

JP,

I fixed the problem! As you suggested, the culprit lay in the points area. I was ploughing through old Rovers North forum posts looking for possible answers and found one where someone had reattached the condenser and LT wire to the points post incorrectly (below the metal locking nut instead of isolated between two plastic insulators). This is exactly what I had done when I replaced my points. The truck is running well now. Thanks for your help walking me through it.

Awesome! Yep, just a small mistake in that area will lead to a no start condition in a hurry, as you witnessed.

let me help!! some vehicles have a ballast resistor on the firewall or someplace. when the ignition key is in the start position (starter engages) electricity goes thru another wire to the points. this is a full 12 volts. when the key is released to the run position the current that goes thru the ballast resistor is still going to the points but at at 6 volts. this saves burning up the points. the initial 12 volts (bypassing the resistor) is to provide a more robust spark for the starting procedure. if your points burn out in a couple weeks you might check them at the run position and see if they're running on 6 or 12 volts?