$$ in exchange for your help!!

I am very willing to offer $$ in exchange for useful information that helps with my situation. If you are able to tell me (based on your extensive knowledge) what is wrong and what I need to do to correct it, I will compensate you for your time and knowledge.

My situation: I have a 2000 Range Rover 4.6HSE. Just recently it has stopped “working”. The battery is fine, I’m tried jumping it but to no avail. I was told that it may be fuses or the relays but have yet to purchase any because why spend more $$ if that’s not what’s wrong. If you are able to figure out that it is then you will be rewarded. When I turn the key, the engine does not turn over, I hear a “clicking” noise coming from the fuse box area. I wasn’t sure if it was the starter or alternator. Usually they gradually go bad and there are early signs that there is a problem. Nevertheless, I’m not ruling anything out. Anyway, if you have a good idea what it is, please let me know. You can email me at Andrew.Stoffer@med.navy.mil or awstoffer@email.msmary.edu and we can exchange information and I can send you $$ if you figured out the problem. :thumb-up:

Andy46 - more infor is needed, assuming the engine is not seized preventing it from starting. What else comes on electrically when you turn the ignitiion on. Has the battery been checked for voltage and CC amps. I have seen what appear to be perfeetly good batteries shell or flake lead and gradually short out. You also cannot jump a battery in this condition, but you can unkook it and jump directly to the battery cables. If it starts, the battery flaked. It should stay running as long as the alternator is good. I would also check battery cables for corrosion and the post clamps to be sure they are not cracked. You cannot always see it from the outside. You will want to look at the exposed end and to see if there is any corrosion and also the sheathing to see if it is cracked. You can also flex the cable and see if the sheathing cracks. If its cracks the cables are bad. I would also inspect he battery post clamps. If they are the metal band style the bands can crack in spots and the contact is not good. You simply cannot get them tight enough, despite the fact they appear to be tight. The clicking you hear is probably the starter selanoid / relay. I would double check the fusable links to be sure they are intact - they probably are since you're getting the selanoid to click. You might also trying tapping on the starter with a hammer (lightly) to see if the bendix gear is stuck. Tapping on the housing can release a stuck bendix and you will at least hear the starter moving again.

Hope this helps. Without more infor it is hard to diagnose the problem. Good luck.

Everything is functional - ie the lights, the horn, the radio, the windows. There are no codes being thrown either.

Andy - Take a jumper cable from B+ directly to the starter motor. Make sure the truck (sorry for the reference) is in Park or Neutral. The starter should spin if it is electrically sound. This leaves the starter relay or solenoid and the assiociated wiring to sort out. If it doesn't spin, bench test it and replace it if required. Good Luck!

Ditto on Dune runner. You may also try a free standing battery to rule out your battery. I have seen flaked batteries still operate lights and things as the drain is not significant, unlike starting. When I ahve issues like this the first thing I look at is the battery - weak or flaked batteries can do weird stuff. Have an auto parts store check the battery.

You might also try turning over the engine by hand with a wrench on the crankshaft. Be sure to DISABLE COIL WIRE so as not to generate spark and have engine turnover and make wrench fly around.

Have you visually verified that the fuseable links are intact? Most likely they are if lights, etc work, but it sounds like you may need to start ruling certain things out to narrow the issue.

Let's start over on this one.

First off, we need to find out if the truck is sending power to the starter when it's supposed to. Using our trusty test light (if you don't have one, do not pass go, go get one!). Hook the test light to the smaller terminal on the solenoid (it'll have a push-on lug) and the other end of the test light to ground. Turn key to crank position. If light illuminates, we have presumptive proff that the truck is telling the starter to spin.

If the light illuminates, now let's check battery voltage. If resting battery voltage is less than oh, let's say 12 volts, it's suspect and should be replaced. Now, turn on the headlights and look at voltage drop. Now, turn headlights off and try to crank starter. If voltage falls, it could be a bad battery, or a dead starter, jumping the battery can rule out the battery.

Test it and check back!

PT

Check your key fob . Ihave 2 keys only 1 is calibrated to start the vehicle and when the battery gave up in one i used the other to open the vehicle but would not turn over:o