5th Gear
Door sitting flush to rear tub
On my rebuild I used the Defender seals inside of the rivet on seals. They are quite a bit thicker...which makes me wonder if this is the cause of my doors not closing flush with rear tub. Removing the seals and shutting the doors flushes the doors pretty well.
Has anyone used the defender seals and flushed their doors with the rear tub? or is the another trick, shims, etc...that i am missing?
Birmabright Brotherhood
Take the vow, join the brotherhood!
Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB
1st Gear
Re-adjust your striker.
5th Gear
I have it has far back as I can. I actually drilled the holes a little bigger on the passenger side to slide them back deeper. Maybe need to drill a little more...Originally Posted by solihull109
Birmabright Brotherhood
Take the vow, join the brotherhood!
Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB
Overdrive
What do you mean that the "Defender seals are inside the rivet on seals"? It is my understanding that the defender seals are slip-on and replace the other style of seals (after removing the circumferential lip). Do I have this wrong (I've not converted mine yet)?
--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).
1st Gear
Mark, you're correct. The Defender style are slip on.
Drill more. You would surprised how much I've needed to drill Defenders for them to fit when new.
5th Gear
You are correct. I had to grind the lip off to allow the defender seal to slide over.
Looks like I will drill out more.
Birmabright Brotherhood
Take the vow, join the brotherhood!
Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB
4th Gear
I cut the lip off the bulkhead since it was getting repainted, but actually found it no problem to slip the defender seal over the lip on the tub side.
The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion
1st Gear
the lip can actually get cut off with tin snips. the only part that is a little hard is the winshield frame. Way less messy than grinding it off.
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