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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    903

    Default clutch question: Slave push rod length?

    It appears that the clutch slave cylinder push rod I have is too short. I'm unable to adjust the rod out enough to get to the recommended 2 7/8" distance from the cylinder mating surface to the bottom of the top nut on the rod. my truck is a '66 IIa. I know there are two pushrods (II/IIa and III) are these different lengths?
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
    Posts
    401

    Default

    Travis,

    Sorry I can't help, but I am keenly interested in others' input on this, as I am very close to the end of my pushrod, and I have to be careful when tightening the jam nut in such a way, to prevent the pushrod from walking out, since there are only a couple of threads left.

    So, in essence, I have the same problem, only I have just enough left on the pushrod to actually function, and I have always wondered if this was common. I have already had it walk out, once. It took about 500 miles, but I certainly don't want to have to deal with that again.

    Hope you get some useful input (not just for my sake).

    -Gary
    "I can't believe I'm sitting here, completely surrounded by no beer!" -Onslow

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    1,239

    Default

    not much help but i just found that series i & ii have different push rods than & iia. i & ii 537601 - iia 576751
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    903

    Default

    Thanks guys. Just as a test, I cut the head off a bolt, and joined it to the pushrod to lengthen it. Not permanant, but enough to see what happened. It served to lengthen the rod, and increase the throw, but the tranny is still spinning with the clutch to the floor. I will play with the adjustment and see what happens.

    If anyone can measure the overall length, and the length of the shaft that's threaded that would be great. If I can get those dimensions, I'll just make one. Hell, if I can't I'll just make one, and wing the adjustment.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Portsmouth, VA
    Posts
    331

    Default too short

    push rod I have is too short

    Travis, Travis, never admit that your push rod is too short
    Jim Wolf

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    128

    Default i too have a short pushrod

    :O

    I had a similar issue with my truck when i got it. I bled it, bled it, adjusted it, bled it,cursed it, cursed myself.

    I felt like it was too short as well although it measured to spec. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to work. I cut a piece of all thread and used that a little longer, didn't really help either despite being longer.

    I never fully resolved it except all i did was disassemble the slave cylinder and put in a new cup and bleed it out. Still wasn't very good and I frequently had to double push the clutch pedal.

    That all being said, after I drove the truck for awhile it started to move the pedal up towards the middle of the stroke. I can only assume that there was air in that bastard somewhere as it has been fine for months. Quite a mystery and a pretty irritating one at that.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    903

    Default

    I have a good solid pedal to the floor. Event though I've lengthened the rod, I still can't get it to shift well. It will grind in every gear, even third and fourth. Obviously, there's still some clutch contact in there somewhere, otherwise I would'nt have a spinning gearbox! I'm able to drive it by double clutching, but I have to double clutch every gear. Annoying. The other thing its doing is lurching in first and reverse from a dead stop. If I slip the clutch quick I can avoid it. This may be caused by slop in the drive train though. It needs new u joints, and the slip joint in the rear shaft has some play.

    Oh well, any thoughts are appreciated.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
    Posts
    401

    Default

    How is your master? Is there any possibility that it needs replaced/rebuilt?
    "I can't believe I'm sitting here, completely surrounded by no beer!" -Onslow

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Bloomfield, CT
    Posts
    1,391

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thixon View Post
    The other thing its doing is lurching in first and reverse from a dead stop. Oh well, any thoughts are appreciated.
    The lurching and the dragging together are making me think friction plate is bad.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    903

    Default

    Rine,
    Mast is brand new, but it could still be pedal adjustment at the master. I'm gonna try that today.

    Terrys, I'm hoping your wrong, but the same thoughts crossed my mind before I started tinkering hard with the adjustment. The clutch parts are all supposed to be new. Here's where I get scared. The guy I bought the truck from was a doofus of the highest order. I've had to redo almost everything else he did, so this would be par for the course. He had receipts for all the parts, but that may not mean anything. The good news is that I have to pull the body off again to finish painting anyway so I could check then.

    I'm gonna try and adjust my pedal so I get more throw today and see what happens.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

 

 

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