I am also pursuing a 2a recovery this weekend- IN east tennessee have similar concerns with moving the long dormant beast. But am I correct in understanding that if I disengage the engine from the drive train, I shield the engine from the forces of moving it and can then literally drag it if necessary with 2 come-alongs.... If that is the case I want to focus my contingency planning on getting it in neutral or disconnecting the drive train- which looks pretty easy - four 9/16" bolts. Am I missing something here?
Like suggestions for PB blaster and mystery oil.
as you are pulling it, give a rap on the rim with a hammer. That is what has always freed up a frozen wheel for me.
(after of course making sure it isn't in gear or that the emergency brake is on)
1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
1965 109 SW - nearly running well
1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
1969 109 P-UP
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2
I hadn't considered the emergency brake. It had not been used for years when it was last driven, but since it has been sitting for so long I suppose at some point it's possible/likely that someone engaged it.....
if that is now: a) rusted & b) integral to gearbox,
would disconnecting driveshaft do it?
or is there another way to work around it?
When I moved my 65 109. I didn't think it was possible but the emergency brake still worked. It was not a rusted hunk of metal.
If it is then disconnecting the drive shaft or removing the axle half shafts would do the trick. (maybe even just removing one of the axle half shafts would be required)
1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
1965 109 SW - nearly running well
1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
1969 109 P-UP
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2
2 things:
A) If you are in ATL, we must have a drink.
B) I beat you to it: my truck already says "Mad Max" across the back
@ kwd509, For your issue, I'd say just try to put the transmission in neutral. If not, then try transfer case neutral. Shouldn't mess up anything for the short distance you are moving it. If worse comes to worse you can disconnect the rear driveshaft.
They are 3/8"BSF.
I have moved dozens of rovers that have been sitting a LONG time, and never found one with a stuck ebrake, simply because they are plenty greasy inside them. Stuck brake levers, Yes, but not the drum/shoes. Nor I have I ever seen a wheel bearing sieze from sitting. Getting them to move really depends on the ground they are sitting on and how round the tires are. A half flat tire, with any age, is hard as a brick and doesn't willingly roll.
If it was left in gear, it may take a bit of tugging, especially with a S3, but never any difficulty putting the TC in neutral. A few planks may make rolling easier if you're trying to move across soft ground.
Frozen wheels...not too hard to free up without alot of fuss...Jack up the truck safely, take off the hub drive flange, loosen up the hub nuts...then shake the tire/wheel- even employ a BFH. I had to do this to a parts car that sat in a field for 30 plus years...it had sank almost up to the chassis in the soft soil. Terrible day....it was raining- 33 degrees outside...worst recovery Ive ever done...but freeing up the wheels was the easier part of it. J
I am really appreciative and rather amazed by the collective chiming in here on this issue. Friday is the big day and I have a lot more confidence in going after this. Will let you all knownhow it goes and post a picture or two as well. Keep the ideas coming.