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Thread: U Joint replacement

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Providence, RI
    Posts
    455

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    Well upon learning the schedule of my 8 month old (in a different vehicle) required a prompt departure and return time I decided to tempt fate and make the 2 hr highway rnd trip without replacing them. Definitely getting some feeling from the back end upon our return. My wife who was driving behind me said my back right tire was slightly wobbling, which I could feel above a certain speed (can't say what, speedo doesn't work). This leads me to believe that the wheel bearing is going too. Wee! Just got the truck back from 10 months in the shop, glad to see there's plenty left for me to tend to....

    Back to the U joint, I'm going to try my hand at it now, I'll probably tackle that, and then the wheel bearings if that is what it ends up being, I suppose the tire could be mounted off or imbalanced but I doubt it, I don't think its been off since I got the truck and it was fine before.
    _________________________________________
    1986 3.5l 110 SW Austrian Feurwehr

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Providence, RI
    Posts
    455

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    Quote Originally Posted by thixon View Post
    I think your buddy is referring to switching springs on the same u-joints you were using with the old springs.
    I think this is exactly what he meant and is the case, the PO put the springs on and probably didn't swap out the u joints.
    _________________________________________
    1986 3.5l 110 SW Austrian Feurwehr

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    315

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    First try to do it yourself. Best way is with a vice and a couple of sockets. Use the sockets to push around the caps once you've removed the C-clips.

    Watch out, if the thing doesn't budge, STOP. You WILL break the vice!!! Yes, I've been present when this happens. The people at Advance Auto get really upset with you when you break their vice.

    So your u-joints are in there good. Find a driveshaft shop and have them replace it. Having the driveshaft shop do the work is cheaper than replacing a broken vice...and your work gets done. Also get them to balance said driveshaft while they are at it.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

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    Wow Max, must have been one wimpy vice! If it's that stuck you can put you oversize socket, open end up, on the ground or other solid surface, put the drive shaft yoke over it so the cap will fall into it, and give the top cap a quick burst with the air hammer. The quick shock load should be enough to break the rust bond free.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    315

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    Quote Originally Posted by I Leak Oil View Post
    Wow Max, must have been one wimpy vice! If it's that stuck you can put you oversize socket, open end up, on the ground or other solid surface, put the drive shaft yoke over it so the cap will fall into it, and give the top cap a quick burst with the air hammer. The quick shock load should be enough to break the rust bond free.
    Actually I was assisting a u-joint replacement for the front axle out of an old bronco. Brother, they did not want to move!!! The guy I was with decided we needed to put a breaker bar on the vice handle. Yes...something broke. The casting on the vice!!

    The people at Advance auto told us to leave, except they used many discouraging words. Many which I shouldn't repeat here.

    Shop down the road said they would replace both for $35. Price was right .

    So that is why I say if you can't get it done, then forget it. Take it to a shop and have them do it. No reason to destroy your own equipment...or get banned from the auto parts store.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

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    I worship you Max! Not everyone can say they've been banned from Advanced Auto! Those stores suck...

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

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    Quote Originally Posted by I Leak Oil View Post
    I worship you Max! Not everyone can say they've been banned from Advanced Auto! Those stores suck...
    I'm on a self-imposed ban from Advance Auto.

    Funny, I was thinking---they were probably using a vise that they bought at Advance Auto. They must be really angry about the breakage since they can't order another one because they dont know the year, make and model vehicle that it came from.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Southern Maine
    Posts
    279

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    U joints used to be pain to do since I only decent vise I had that would open far enough to use sockets etc. was an old blacksmoth type vise. Plenty strong but when open real wide the jaws faces were no longer parallel. SO.. I borrowed this tool

    http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-Ball-.../dp/B0002SRGXY

    from a friend. I used it once and then bought my own. ( I piad at least 20% more 10+ years ago from local Autoparts store.) . UJ's have been a snap ever since. IT's simple to used and super strong.

    ..Talbot

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
    Posts
    1,743

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    Quote Originally Posted by SafeAirOne View Post
    I'm on a self-imposed ban from Advance Auto.

    Funny, I was thinking---they were probably using a vise that they bought at Advance Auto. They must be really angry about the breakage since they can't order another one because they dont know the year, make and model vehicle that it came from.
    Nice!
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Providence, RI
    Posts
    455

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    I successfully swapped out the u joint on the sliding yoke end, it wasn't too bad but definitely took a few hours...glad I waited. Once I got one cap out the other didn't want to go back in straight to be pushed out the other side. I think I shaved a tiny slice off of the inner yoke way at the start pressing it in and getting it aligned which is unfortunate but the joint is in and quite smooth. Now that I understand how it works and is done, I think I'll take the other end to the shop down the street and see how much they want to pop it and replace. If too much or they aren't able, I'll dedicate the time to do that end, hopefully it will proceed quicker.
    Last edited by Cutter; 10-06-2010 at 10:33 PM.
    _________________________________________
    1986 3.5l 110 SW Austrian Feurwehr

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