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Thread: How long can I drive with...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Southern Maine USA
    Posts
    71

    Default How long can I drive with...

    I have, as many others, have the vibrations at around 40 and then highway speeds.

    I've replaced the front shaft, rear roto and u-joint, and had wheels balanced (lug-centric).

    After searching other posts, I am convinced it's the t-case bearings or maybe the diff bearing. All I know is that when I take out the front shaft (and it's new and balanced), the vibrations go away.

    So, with the diff-lock engaged, is it ok to drive around on just the rear drive shaft? I was going to attempt to change out the bearing(s) myself and since I've never worked on the t-case, there will be a learning curve.

    Also, does anyone know of any tools that would help out or any tricks to getting at the bearing in the case? Does it need to be dropped? Thanks for any help
    "Out of every one hundred men, ten should not even be there, eighty are just targets, nine are the real fighters, and we are lucky to have them for they make the battle. Ah, but the one, one is a warrior, and he will bring the others back"

  2. #2

    Exclamation

    Check the sway bar ends, which when worn will cause a vibration in the front end similar to the driveshaft disintegrating. Do not drive with the diff lock engaged or the transfer case will grenade itself, it is for temporary off road use only.
    As far as working on the transfer case yourself, it took my mechanic with 20 years LR experience 7 1/2 hours to change my input seal as the tc had to be removed, fixed, and put back together again. The acetylene torch was used to loosen a few bolts, which is not normally accessable to us.
    This is so complicated that w/o the experience, I wouldn't try it due to potentially catastrophic results.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Southern Maine USA
    Posts
    71

    Default

    Mjollnir,

    Where is your location and name of the shop? I'm in sothern Maine and need to find a good trusted shop to do these kind of repairs. Thanks
    "Out of every one hundred men, ten should not even be there, eighty are just targets, nine are the real fighters, and we are lucky to have them for they make the battle. Ah, but the one, one is a warrior, and he will bring the others back"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Union ME
    Posts
    191

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dandruka View Post
    Mjollnir,

    Where is your location and name of the shop? I'm in sothern Maine and need to find a good trusted shop to do these kind of repairs. Thanks


    If you're in southern Maine, try getting in touch with Matt Browne @ Overland engineering. I'm sure he can assist you. Sorry, I don't have the number handy.
    knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain



    www.downeastcoachworks.com

  5. #5

    thumb-up

    My mechanic is Mike Holland in Guilford, CT (www.hollandsgarage.com). Since you are in Maine, I think the closest would be Taylor Congleton who is the mechanic for Rovers North in VT. You could also try the mechanic listed above, as that is how I found Mike- through a forum. If you need someone closer to you, ask Rovers North as they are always helpful.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Posts
    889

    Default

    Matt Brown is an independent Land Rover only mechanic. He is highly regarded, as is Carey at Downeast coachworks, who mentioned Matt to you originally. Both are exceptional, and recommend each other enthusiasticly. I think you would be in good hands with either of these gentlemen. Matt is closer to you, but if he has a waiting list for repairs, and you fancy a drive to the Rockland Maine area, Carey is only 1.5 hours away from portland.
    Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

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