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Thread: 2.25 liter Rear Main Seal Install

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  1. #1

    Default 2.25 liter Rear Main Seal Install

    Looking for a bit of instruction on installing the rear seal on my Series 2A engine. I have heard that you can use 2 gap tools to start the T seals into the block. Would you use the finer/thinner blades or the thicker ones. I also saw where one person fashioned their own wedges like the factory used. How have you all successfully installed yours?

    Secondly, am I correct in thinking that after you slide the rear main bearing cap down, you then push the circular seal with the spring inside forward then install the two seal halves over that?

    I don't want to screw up the seals and have to order replacements cause I did something stupid.

    Thanks,
    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IronMike View Post
    I also saw where one person fashioned their own wedges like the factory used.
    That's the way I did it.

    Quote Originally Posted by IronMike View Post
    How have you all successfully installed yours?

    Well, I can tell you wat DIDN'T work for me, though others have had success--The strips of aluminum cut from a beer can method. The aluminum wasn't strong enough to resist distorting under the outward pressure of the cork t-seal. I really mangled them. Maybe I should have used a Foster's can...
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
    1,504

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    Doing the seal with the beer can method is very fidgety and you should plan on ripping one of the seals unless you have some luck on your side. There is a wedge tool for this but as you can see I didn't have it on hand at the time.

    Hope this helps:

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    28

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    I just finished putting in new seals last week. I used two long feeler gauges that let me choose the optimum thickness. The seals slid right in. The feeler gauges are much tougher that the beer can method.

    BTW, still trying to mate the trans to the engine. What a pain in the you know what. Even the alignment tool has not made it any easier!!! Hope you have better luck with that task!

    Bob

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
    1,504

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    When you get jammed up trying to slide the transmission back in, I find it is best to stop what you are doing, add some support so the transmission doesn't fall of bend anything and then walk away. When I come back to it, it always seems to just slide right on in. Don't ask me how.

  6. #6

    Default

    So I guess you would use a feeler gauge thicker than a beer can but not the thickest. As for the other seal that has the spring, that is pinched by the two half circle seals that are bolted in?

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