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Thread: Fuel Sender

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    498

    Default Fuel Sender

    Can a diesel 88" gas tank sender unit be used in a petrol 88? I received a diesel sender unit (pictured below) instead of a petrol one. I know the petrol ones are hard to come by.

    There is notch on the float arm of both the petrol and diesel versions that appears to allow you to remove and then interchange the arms. But with some light torquing pressure, I get no release, and don't want to break it if it doesn't unscrew.

    Can't find a schematic of the diesel set up to better understand how this works. (anyone have that?)

    Why would it ship with a float arm with no float, and then another arm with no threading but a float?

    Weird.
    1970 88 IIA

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Greenville, NC
    Posts
    260

    Default

    It looks very much like the sender on my IIa (the original) and I don't know why it would work-they both float on the fuel level. On my sender the arm is doubled as if you attached those two pieces together with a clip on either end. mine is soldered. What is the hardware in the bag?
    64 IIa 88
    94 Discovery
    06 Toyota 4R (DD)

    ~Matt
    --------------------------------------------
    "Not all who wander are lost"~Tolkein

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    498

    Default

    Matt - that's just a form shot from the web, I don't have the hardware in the packet.

    My gut reaction is that to use this assembly in a petrol you pry the float off of the 'detached arm' and then bend the end of the arm coming out of the sender around it - and just toss the 'extra' detached arm.

    I will say that the shape of this arm (dipped) is different than a petrol (straight) and wondering if this 'solution' results in an inaccurate reading???
    1970 88 IIA

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
    Posts
    1,743

    Default

    When I replaced the sender in my 109 SW tank the sender came like that. You are supposed to measure the height of the tank and then attach the arm with the float to the arm on the sender itself. The little clamps hold it together either forever or until you have it soldered.
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Bloomfield, CT
    Posts
    1,382

    Default

    Lane's correct; you attach the two arms together with the clamp, so that the travel of the arm equals the height of your tank. (Pssst, your gauge doesn't care if it's diesel fuel or gasoline in the tank)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    498

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Terrys View Post
    (Pssst, your gauge doesn't care if it's diesel fuel or gasoline in the tank)
    LOL!

    Thanks all.
    1970 88 IIA

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    368

    Default

    The only thing i would add having just replaced mine is that the little wire clamps that are supposed to hold the adjustable arm to the main arm are totally ineffective so once you have determined the appropriate length use a more permanent solution. I used some fine gauge baling wire that I double wrapped and twist crimped.
    1995 NAS D-90 Soft Top, AA Yellow
    1973 Series III '88 Hard Top, Limestone
    1957 Series I, Deep bronze green

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Fleetwood, PA
    Posts
    183

    Default

    The diesel one might work. When I couldn't find the senders for my military underseat tanks I ordered military specific ones from lrseries.com. What I got were the same setup as for the diesel. ( same item #'s) Haven't had petrol in the tanks yet so I can't say, but I also measured my old senders and cut the new rods and overlapped and soldered them. Hopefully it all works.
    Neil Hanekom
    '73 LHD 88
    '75 FFR 109 exMOD Build Photo's
    '99 D1

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Flagstaff, Arizona
    Posts
    1,087

    Default

    What you have is a universal sending unit intended to be fitted to a large number of different cars, both petrol and diesel. That is why you set the length of the float arm for the height of your vehicle's fuel tank. This will work on all factory negative earth Land Rovers that still have a factory or factory like front or rear fuel tank.

    The Land Rovers that came from the factory wired for positive earth requires an NLA sender unit identified by a little tower on the top side.

    When I needed a new sender unit in my SII I used a negative earth MGB gauge on an aux. panel because it is compatible with the sender units currently available and looks right (I now have a MGB tach in the hole where the fuel gauge sat). I set the float arm so the float touched the bottom of the tank when empty, used the provided clamps then soldered the two arm sections together.

    You asked about the wiring. There will be an uninsulated tab that you should wire to frame ground, a wire for the gauge and a wire for a low fuel warning light. The low warning tab is easy to verify as it is an on- off switch that only conducts when the tank is nearly empty. You can ignore this tab if you don't want to add a low fuel warning light.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Washington, VT
    Posts
    180

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TeriAnn View Post
    The Land Rovers that came from the factory wired for positive earth requires an NLA sender unit identified by a little tower on the top side.
    I have been following with interest. When I begin the work on my 64 2a diesel in the next few months I expect that one of the first orders of business will be the fuel tank and associated components. With the exception of the tank all other aspects of fuel system have been cleaned and repaired. Sadly, that tank was w/o cap for many years and it was filled to brim with diesel water combo.....

    So,
    any projections on what might I find in terms of degraded components?
    &
    what are my options relative to sending unit, if it needs replacement. Am I compelled to go to negative earth?

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