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Thread: P38 power steering conversion ??

  1. #21

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    -yes thats the stock mounting flange on the original column
    -36x3/4 splined shafting is available from borgeson
    -the other half is a bearing retainer with an integral mounting flange - I made it.
    -I used a sealed bearing I obtained from a local bearing house.


    Hope that helps

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Greenville, SC
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    687

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    Thanks, Ike! Sounds like a visit to the machine shop is in order!.

    Based on everything, the FJ60 seems like the way to go. No need to re-ream the pitman arm or cut it shorter, LR TREs work. The new drag link and column bearing are the same for all conversions.

    Thanks guys

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
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    1,358

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    Quote Originally Posted by albersj51 View Post
    Very good point! I know the scout pumps cost my right arm to rebuild!
    If you mean the Scout box then Autozone sell an overhaul kit for $29. Pump is just a generic GM spam can.

    Here's the PS set up I did which takes a little from many of the previous posters. Shaft was modified by Ike as described. Joints and slip joint are Borgeson. The mounted bearing came from McMaster Carr and I made up the bracket from metal stock. It uses the upper outer column with no mods and keeps the steering wheel in the exact position it had with the original system. It also uses the original steering box mounts and is VERY strong.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Greenville, SC
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    687

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    Thanks, Greenmeanie!

    So you got the column bearing from mcmaster? Would you happen to have a PN? That's exactly what Im missing! I can get the intermediate shaft/u-joints from borgeson and make the drag link from DOM tubing, taping it for LR TREs, but the column is what hangs me up. If there is a pre-made bushing that I can bolt to modified column, then im in business.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    1,358

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    I don't have the number at hand. The McMaster catalogue is pretty easy to workl with though. You want a mounted bearing with a 3/4" ID and the smallest square flange available. IIRC I had to slot the mounting holes in the flange slightly to match the bolt pattern on the flange at the base of the outer column. I think one of the Toyota vendors (Inchworm maybe?) sels this part already modified.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Posts
    687

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    you are a scholar and a gentleman. Thanks!

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Westborough, MA
    Posts
    79

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    Quote Originally Posted by albersj51 View Post
    Thanks, Greenmeanie!

    So you got the column bearing from mcmaster? Would you happen to have a PN? That's exactly what Im missing! I can get the intermediate shaft/u-joints from borgeson and make the drag link from DOM tubing, taping it for LR TREs, but the column is what hangs me up. If there is a pre-made bushing that I can bolt to modified column, then im in business.
    Make sure you find a set of 11/16X16 left and right handed taps or weld in inserts for the drag link. Everything I could find was 11/16X18. There may be a few guys on here that have them

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Greenville, SC
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    Good call! If I cant find any, I can do it the south carolina way (ie redneck engineering), and cut the current drag link in half and weld it into a longer piece of DOM tubing. I'd prefer to not go this route but if I must I will.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Posts
    687

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    Looks like mcmaster has the left and right taps (for thd cost of my first borns soul). Anyone know if its NS NF or whatever? Also, what chamfer would you recommend, taper (seems too tapered), plug or bottom? My gut says bottom.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cornwall Ct
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    343

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    Quote Originally Posted by albersj51 View Post
    ...and cut the current drag link in half and weld it into a longer piece of DOM tubing...
    Please don't do that. Welding tie rods is a scary thing.

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