Series IIA Ignition Cut out?

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  • 109sixer
    Low Range
    • Apr 2007
    • 31

    Series IIA Ignition Cut out?

    Been having a electrical Gremlin here. Replaced coil, dist, points/cond
    etc...also checked fuel pump, carb, plugs. Replaced ignition switch and wiring.

    The problem is strange...the ignition will just cut out...if I flip the
    switch it will start up again..run for a while and cut out randomly.
    I know it sounds like a short somewhere. I have been putting off
    replacing the entire wiring harness for a while. I'm hoping there is
    a easy fix here that someone may have run into before?
  • B. Wallace
    Low Range
    • Jan 2007
    • 43

    #2
    I'm sure there's a thousand different possibilities, but I had a similar problem a while back. Mine's a SIII, but I discovered tha when I tapped the bottom of the steering column, where my fuse box is located, I could cause it to do the same thing. What I figured out was that one of the prongs that the fuse sits in was a little loose, and would cause the ignition to cut on and off while driving. I simply took the fuse out and crimped the prongs tighter with a needlenose plier.
    It's sometimes the really simple things that can cause a major problem. Don't feel dumb if it is something like that, we've all been there and it took me a while to find my gremlin
    1972 Series III 88

    Comment

    • J!m
      2nd Gear
      • Nov 2006
      • 295

      #3
      Have you inspected the ignition switch itself (where the key goes in)? With age, these parts wear, and you could have an intermittent connection here. Turning the switch makes the connection, and then a bump comes along and rattles it loose on you...

      Maybe check this before the harness ends up in the land fill.
      Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

      1995 110 Regular

      Comment

      • 109sixer
        Low Range
        • Apr 2007
        • 31

        #4
        I've been told that SIIAs truck does'nt not have a fuse in the iginition circuit...
        but I will check to see if someone has done some "custom wiring". Thanks
        for the reply!

        Comment

        • 109sixer
          Low Range
          • Apr 2007
          • 31

          #5
          Jim,

          I have replaced the switch...the switch that was in there was a Kragen
          special, so of course That was the first thing I threw out. The harness
          is 37 years old and getting crunchy. I've heard of a place in Portland
          that sells replacement harnesses for less than 200 bucks. It's called
          the Hoffman Group. I'm thinking of ordering one of those for prevenative
          maintenance. It would really suck to replace the harness and have the
          problem not go away.

          A premier manufacturer of custom wire kits and wiring harnesses, wiring kits, lighting, billet buttons & switches, relays and electrical wiring accessories.
          Last edited by 109sixer; 04-13-2007, 03:10 PM.

          Comment

          • Tim Smith
            Overdrive
            • Nov 2006
            • 1504

            #6
            Where is your ignition switch? Dashboard or the steering column?

            If it's in the dash, then I would check the connections in the back. There is a lot of room for things to get pushed around back there though the years. You know, someone fixes a dash bulb but crammed all the wires back in there when reassembling the dash, causing too much stress on a connector for the ignition. Then one good bump, 10 years later and it comes loose and now you have a gremlin.

            Comment

            • Tim Smith
              Overdrive
              • Nov 2006
              • 1504

              #7
              Oh, just thought of a test you can do to check the ignition switch (and possibly remove the coil, dist, wires etc from the equation).

              Turn on your heater blower on, or something else that works only when the ignition switch is on, and wait for the issue to show up again. When the engine fails then you will know it's the ignition switch if the blower fails too. If it doesn't then it might not be the switch but could be the wires further down the line.

              Good luck!

              Comment

              • 109sixer
                Low Range
                • Apr 2007
                • 31

                #8
                Tried the heater switch trick...the engine cuts out but the fan keeps going.
                It seems to get worse when it has been running for a while ( Hot ).

                By the way the power to the heater switch comes from the coil? This thing
                is a mess!

                Comment

                • daveb
                  5th Gear
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 513

                  #9
                  not all heaters are wired to the ignition side. not a surefire test.

                  Originally posted by 109sixer
                  Tried the heater switch trick...the engine cuts out but the fan keeps going.
                  It seems to get worse when it has been running for a while ( Hot ).

                  By the way the power to the heater switch comes from the coil? This thing
                  is a mess!
                  A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."


                  Comment

                  • Tim Smith
                    Overdrive
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 1504

                    #10
                    Originally posted by daveb
                    not all heaters are wired to the ignition side. not a surefire test.
                    True, true. Was hoping for something easy and forgot about that.

                    Comment

                    • 109sixer
                      Low Range
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 31

                      #11
                      OK...the heater is a Smiths flat heater ( Nice, works great ). The problem
                      began before the heater was installed. I've been behind the instrument
                      cluster more times than I'd like to admit. I believe the problem lies
                      somewhere in the power lead going from the harness to the coil +.

                      I've taken the Dist apart and re-soldered all the connections to make sure
                      there was no short inside the Dist. then I replaced the Low tension lead back to the coil etc...

                      My truck is a 1970 SIIA 109 NADA with Euro spec six cyl motor. It has
                      a Zenith Stromberg carb and the engine is out of a 78 with the smog
                      stuff taken off and capped.

                      Just more info to add to the soup!

                      Comment

                      • Tim Smith
                        Overdrive
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 1504

                        #12
                        Originally posted by 109sixer
                        Tried the heater switch trick...the engine cuts out but the fan keeps going.
                        It seems to get worse when it has been running for a while ( Hot ).

                        By the way the power to the heater switch comes from the coil? This thing
                        is a mess!
                        So doesn't that mean that your coil is still getting power -> which means that your ignition switch is working?

                        I'm grabbing at straws. It's kind of tough to come up with a sure fire test without actually leaning under the hood. Although I'm sure the next poster will be able to do it.

                        Comment

                        • BackInA88
                          3rd Gear
                          • Dec 2006
                          • 332

                          #13
                          Maybe try this?

                          I've had problems like this before on other vehicles.
                          I have in the past run a wire right from the battery to the coil to nail down which side of the circuit (engine or harness) the problem is on.

                          Question, I don't remember, is there a ballast resistor in the coil circuit?
                          These can tend to get flakey after the warm up when they are going bad.
                          71 IIa 88
                          01 D2

                          Comment

                          • singingcamel
                            4th Gear
                            • Oct 2006
                            • 398

                            #14
                            next time you drive it and it cuts out ,check your coil. you may have a bad coil. heats up and then dies .i've seen this problem a few time.also check your coil wire and connections on your coil...
                            also agree with Mr. Smith on the connections on the back of your switch if its in the dash.
                            also when it cuts out ,move or wiggle the ignition switch to see if it helps
                            www.singingcamel.com

                            Comment

                            • 109sixer
                              Low Range
                              • Apr 2007
                              • 31

                              #15
                              I've tried both types of coils ... external and internal resistor.
                              I currently have a brand new Lucas gold coil with a built in resistor.
                              It's putting out 12 on the battery side and roughly 7 to the distributor.

                              I'm thinking it must be a fried ground wire in the harness. SIIa's
                              Have no fuses in the ignition so I could have very well burned out
                              a wire without knowing. Like they say..."the Smoke will come".

                              Comment

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