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Thread: Series IIA Ignition Cut out?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Berkeley
    Posts
    31

    Default

    OK...the heater is a Smiths flat heater ( Nice, works great ). The problem
    began before the heater was installed. I've been behind the instrument
    cluster more times than I'd like to admit. I believe the problem lies
    somewhere in the power lead going from the harness to the coil +.

    I've taken the Dist apart and re-soldered all the connections to make sure
    there was no short inside the Dist. then I replaced the Low tension lead back to the coil etc...

    My truck is a 1970 SIIA 109 NADA with Euro spec six cyl motor. It has
    a Zenith Stromberg carb and the engine is out of a 78 with the smog
    stuff taken off and capped.

    Just more info to add to the soup!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
    1,504

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 109sixer
    Tried the heater switch trick...the engine cuts out but the fan keeps going.
    It seems to get worse when it has been running for a while ( Hot ).

    By the way the power to the heater switch comes from the coil? This thing
    is a mess!
    So doesn't that mean that your coil is still getting power -> which means that your ignition switch is working?

    I'm grabbing at straws. It's kind of tough to come up with a sure fire test without actually leaning under the hood. Although I'm sure the next poster will be able to do it.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Troy Michigan
    Posts
    332

    Default Maybe try this?

    I've had problems like this before on other vehicles.
    I have in the past run a wire right from the battery to the coil to nail down which side of the circuit (engine or harness) the problem is on.

    Question, I don't remember, is there a ballast resistor in the coil circuit?
    These can tend to get flakey after the warm up when they are going bad.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    city of maples
    Posts
    398

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    next time you drive it and it cuts out ,check your coil. you may have a bad coil. heats up and then dies .i've seen this problem a few time.also check your coil wire and connections on your coil...
    also agree with Mr. Smith on the connections on the back of your switch if its in the dash.
    also when it cuts out ,move or wiggle the ignition switch to see if it helps
    www.singingcamel.com

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Berkeley
    Posts
    31

    Default

    I've tried both types of coils ... external and internal resistor.
    I currently have a brand new Lucas gold coil with a built in resistor.
    It's putting out 12 on the battery side and roughly 7 to the distributor.

    I'm thinking it must be a fried ground wire in the harness. SIIa's
    Have no fuses in the ignition so I could have very well burned out
    a wire without knowing. Like they say..."the Smoke will come".

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Berkeley
    Posts
    31

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    I've checked behind the dash and replaced the wires any suspect wires.
    My next step is going to be to split the harness open and trace the wires
    all the way to the battery. OR I could just replace the harness completely
    since it's probably less work.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Have you tried hot wiring your truck? Give it a try. Your truck is easy to start. If your points, valves, plug gaps, and timing are set then your fault should be found in a loose connecion, likely in your ignition switch. Tighten it up, step by step. They're not that difficult, regardless of the Lucas haters. If your distrubuter is properly wired you will have little issue.
    Best of Luck,
    Erin

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Berkeley
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Erin
    Have you tried hot wiring your truck? Give it a try. Your truck is easy to start. If your points, valves, plug gaps, and timing are set then your fault should be found in a loose connecion, likely in your ignition switch. Tighten it up, step by step. They're not that difficult, regardless of the Lucas haters. If your distrubuter is properly wired you will have little issue.
    Best of Luck,
    Erin
    Thanks Erin,
    I will trace all the wiring from the switch back and see where the short is.
    I already replaced all of the wiring in the Lucas 25d.
    This is the strangest issue I've seen in a while. My friends who have similar
    vintage trucks and motors have never had any issues. I guess when the
    harness gets old, the casings can erode to the point where enough heat
    can create less than ideal insulation causing shorting. Specialy along the
    firewall behind the back of the head where the oil seems to seep.

    Do you know of a an upgrade solution for the IIA wiring? I've heard
    suggestion to use a SIII harness since it is fused. Others have recommended upgrading to aftermarket off the shelf harness that
    come pre-wired with a fuse boxe.

    I would love to hear about anyone who has done a new harness with
    an alternator upgrade at the same time.

    cheers and thanks for all of the replies!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    977

    Default

    I've installed two new harnesses to date. The first on the NADA and the second on the 88". Both were done in the course of restorations. I bought my harnesses from Paddock's in the UK, with special instruction to wire for alternator. The quality seems very good. The only issue was a few wires that were too long (none were too short) and the extra wire had to be tied off. No big deal. I will tell you that the wiring harnesses for the NADA are more complicated (only slightly so) than many others. So just be clear when ordering.

    Installation -

    When you first get the harness, you will think, 'my god can I actually hook this damn thing up?' The answer is yes, but be prepared for many hours of work. Time was never an issue with me, because I just hooked up the wires as the restoration progressed. One hard thing to do (nearly impossible without the body off) will be to run the rear half of the harness through the frame. The harness came in 4 parts (at least mine did); the main engine harness, the rear harness, the alternator harness, and the dimmer switch harness. The good news is that you can just install the engine harness if you want. The bad news is that you will at some point have to replace the rear harness, and if you have wiring for an alternator, you'll need to have the alternator setup ready when you go in with the new engine harness.

    It does not come with a fuse box, but is prewired for the original fuse box. I believe you can upgrade this if you want.

    **Oh yeah, don't forget you're going to need a lot of new bullet connectors and ground clips (maybe a few extra bullets too, for any accessories you may have). I ordered these from Triple-C, look them up.
    Last edited by jp-; 04-15-2007 at 11:46 AM.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    977

    Default

    As to your original problem, anything can be fixed. Can it be fixed at a later date (without installing a new harness now), absolutely it can. So if you plan to do a restoration at some point, you may as well wait on the harness. However, it is your call, and there is no way to tell just how bad it is without actually seeing it.

    The problem is without doubt a loose (or corroded) connection/ignition switch internal connection.
    Singing Camel is correct that the coil can at times be at fault for engine cut out, however (in my experience) when the coil overheats the truck may be down 10 minutes until the coil cools back down. Momentary engine cut out, with an almost immediate return to normal running can almost always be attributed to faulty wiring/ignition switch failure. (It is important to note, that momentary engine cut out, with a *delay* in the return to normal running can also be attributed to fuel delivery problems.)

    Now that the problem is identified, all you have to do is fix it. With the engine running there must be good connections at the ignition switch (both incoming power and outgoing power to coil), ignition coil, distributor, and engine ground.

    1. Make sure that the engine grounding wire (to the frame) is solid and is good and clean where the connections are made.
    2. Check the ignition switch hot lead that comes in from the battery (solenoid). Do you have a good connection at both ends?
    3. Check the connection from the ignition switch to the coil. Is it loose on either end?
    4. Check the wire from the coil to the distributor.

    Start the truck in nuetral (with the gauge panel off, be careful not to let any of the wires short) and start wiggling wires. If nothing fails to duplicate the cutout problem, go under the hood. Move the coil wires, move the hot leads going into the gauge panel.

    9 times out of 10, expect the ignition switch.
    Last edited by jp-; 04-15-2007 at 03:59 PM.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

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