Seized brake bleeder screws!!!!

[esquivelia]

Anyone have experience unseizing the bleeder screws on the brake system....(71 2a). I'm guessing that I should heat them up to brake them loose but any input would be helpful. I've already broken one off, so if anyone also has any idea how to get the remnants of the screw out that would be great as well.

p.s. i'm getting ready to rebuild the brake system...i.e.- new seals and so fourth.

[J!m]

E-Z outs typically work well to remove broken bleeders, but I've broken them too...

Soak it with (enter favorite penetrating oil here) overnight, checking it and keeping it wet as often as needed. If it dries out, re-set the clock.

Insert the screw extractor, and gently turn it. It will bite in, and (with luck) break the bleeder free. If it does not break free, you will need some heat next.

I suggest relatively low heat, as you don't want to deform the aluminum. Start with a Bernz-o-matic with propane, then step up to MAPP. DON'T go any hotter than MAPP, and watch it closely, as the MAPP can get hot enough to melt the aluminum, and Acetylene is the hottest flame temperature possible, so just forget that.

If the "low" heat doesn't work, the very best thing is a left-handed drill bit. These are becoming more common, but not at the convenience-store level yet. Get the largest bit you dare to use, and drill CAREFULLY. Under ideal conditions, you would get the diameter drill for the tap size of the threads. Drill slowly, and wait for the piece to un-screw. If it doesn't un-screw, collapse the remains into the new hole and dig them out.

Now chase the threads with the correct tap. If it all looks good, you are ready to reassemble it. If the threads are all messed up even after chasing them, you have a lovely door stop in your hands.

There are many products available as "brake system lubricants" such as one from Lucas and Girling and others. Get the brake system specific stuff and coat the threads of the new bleeder to reduce the chance of seizing in the future.

I also suggest replacing the lines, because if the bleeder is in that condition, it is obvious the brake fluid was not changed every two years as it should be, and the lines are all rusty inside. Floating rust does an excellent job of destroying rubber brake system seals...

Finally, you may consider changing to DOT 5 brake fluid. This is silicone based, and will not absorb water, nor will it harm paint if accidentally spilled. I use this in both of my trucks (DO NOT USE WITH ANTI-LOCK SYSTEMS!!), and it is particularly important for arctic expeditions as the lack of absorbed water means it won't freeze. Frozen fluid (or trapped water) in the brake system can make for some interesting driving on icy roads and packed snow...

After reading all this, you see why 99% of the time, I just order a new cylinder/slave if the bleeder is seized.

[singingcamel]

well said, i can't add a thing. Jim ,you've been there before!

E-Z outs typically work well to remove broken bleeders, but I've broken them too...

Soak it with (enter favorite penetrating oil here) overnight, checking it and keeping it wet as often as needed. If it dries out, re-set the clock.

Insert the screw extractor, and gently turn it. It will bite in, and (with luck) break the bleeder free. If it does not break free, you will need some heat next.

I suggest relatively low heat, as you don't want to deform the aluminum. Start with a Bernz-o-matic with propane, then step up to MAPP. DON'T go any hotter than MAPP, and watch it closely, as the MAPP can get hot enough to melt the aluminum, and Acetylene is the hottest flame temperature possible, so just forget that.

If the "low" heat doesn't work, the very best thing is a left-handed drill bit. These are becoming more common, but not at the convenience-store level yet. Get the largest bit you dare to use, and drill CAREFULLY. Under ideal conditions, you would get the diameter drill for the tap size of the threads. Drill slowly, and wait for the piece to un-screw. If it doesn't un-screw, collapse the remains into the new hole and dig them out.

Now chase the threads with the correct tap. If it all looks good, you are ready to reassemble it. If the threads are all messed up even after chasing them, you have a lovely door stop in your hands.

There are many products available as "brake system lubricants" such as one from Lucas and Girling and others. Get the brake system specific stuff and coat the threads of the new bleeder to reduce the chance of seizing in the future.

I also suggest replacing the lines, because if the bleeder is in that condition, it is obvious the brake fluid was not changed every two years as it should be, and the lines are all rusty inside. Floating rust does an excellent job of destroying rubber brake system seals...

Finally, you may consider changing to DOT 5 brake fluid. This is silicone based, and will not absorb water, nor will it harm paint if accidentally spilled. I use this in both of my trucks (DO NOT USE WITH ANTI-LOCK SYSTEMS!!), and it is particularly important for arctic expeditions as the lack of absorbed water means it won't freeze. Frozen fluid (or trapped water) in the brake system can make for some interesting driving on icy roads and packed snow...

After reading all this, you see why 99% of the time, I just order a new cylinder/slave if the bleeder is seized.

[JimCT]

Before you try the easyout, give the bleed screw a good wrap with a hammer, or hammer and drift if that is easier. One good shot can loosen the corrosion, and it helps the penetrating oil do its work. The secret is to hit it hard.

[J!m]

Before you try the easyout, give the bleed screw a good wrap with a hammer, or hammer and drift if that is easier. One good shot can loosen the corrosion, and it helps the penetrating oil do its work. The secret is to hit it hard.

...and not break it in half...

[esquivelia]

Thanks for all the info.... you've got me thinking about the lines now.

I'm also wondering about the 4 way junction and what i need to be concerned with as for as draining filling and bleeding the system with this 4 way junction in place. Also should/could I blow out the lines with a compressor to maybe clean them somehow?

thanks again!!!

[J!m]

If the fluid is brown in color when you drain it, it is time for new lines.

the 3-way junction on the rear axle is brass (at least it SHOULD be) and should be perfectly fine to re-use. The front junction is brass as well, if I'm not mistaken.

New lines are not terribly expensive, and it IS the braking system- don't take any chances with it... You'll have peace of mind knowing its done right.

[esquivelia]

Thanks again guys!! Just ordered all new lines for the brakes which will lead me to start a new thread about chassis repair. Maybe see you in the new thread...

Thanks again!!