No, I have only run it a few hours in the driveway but the compression is less then it was when I first put it back together. I just thought 110 was low for new rings but I really don't know.
No, I have only run it a few hours in the driveway but the compression is less then it was when I first put it back together. I just thought 110 was low for new rings but I really don't know.
If I'm wrong someone will correct me. as I understand, you won't get optimal compression until the rings are fully and properly seated. Also, there was a thread on GnR about checking compression on these motors, may want to check it out.
http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/s...ession-Numbers
Also, you dont want to idle the engine to break it in, you want to drive it under different RPMs so the rings will seat.
Best of luck.
I agree--Find out how to properly break in an engine and follow those procedures closely. Doing it improperly could have a lasting effect on an engine's health and lifespan. Varying the RPMs is only one aspect of a proper break-in. There are other factors including pressure that you can't duplicate on an ordinary engine test stand (or sitting in an unfinished chassis).
--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).
I only skimmed the first 4 pages, but it sounds like you haven't found the problem. I can say with some certainty that it has nothing to do with your cam, jumping timing or whatever. My initial thought was blown head gasket between 3&4, but your compressions are good. If you have spark at the plug wires,and it's running on 1&2, but it's not running on 3&4, I'd look to see if those 2 plugs are fouled.
Sounds good, Even though it isn't running good & is very weak on power right now I don't see any reason why I couldn't drive it on short local trips to help break it in. Any thoughts.
It is Fixed !!!!!!! The short of it is there was a leak in the bottom of the intake manifold where the exhaust preheats the intake air. The fix was to make a plate between the two manifolds. Basiclly isolating the two. Thats it! Thanks to all of you guys for helping me. Cant wait to drive it, it's been months!! Just in time for the snow!
A leak caused spark plugs #3 and 4 to not spark unless you disconnected plugs #1 & 2 ?????
--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).
3&4 had spark but would not fire (ignite), when I pulled the wires off of those cylinders it never changed but I had good spark. I had everything it needed to run but it just wouldn't run. The hole (I never found it) is inside the "box" where the two manifolds bolt together and the exhaust passes through to warm the intake air. By blocking off that open space & isolating the intake the leak is plugged. YaaHooo