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Thread: new-to me-94 D-90

  1. #1

    Default new-to me-94 D-90

    I recently aquired a 94 D-90 and wanted to get some feed back on it. I saw on the forum that rust is the main culprit on these trucks and mine has more than some unfortunately. Can anyone recommend some sort of blanket treatment for the undercarriage that will stop/inhibit rust?
    Heat bypass lever only seems to run on defrost-not to floorboard as I would assume it's supposed to do when in lower position?
    Also the fiberglass top is badly sunbaked and I've got mixed reviews from detailers on what I can do to condition it?
    Does anyone know of any D-90 groups/clubs in CO?

    Thanks-

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    208

    Default

    Try connecting with the Solihull Society in Colorado. Not exculsive to D90s but they're good group.

    POR15 works pretty good but you have to do the prep work real good so it sticks well. Waxoyl in the inside of the frame helps as well. I can't help you with the heater or top issue.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by seanholiman View Post
    I recently aquired a 94 D-90 and wanted to get some feed back on it. I saw on the forum that rust is the main culprit on these trucks and mine has more than some unfortunately. Can anyone recommend some sort of blanket treatment for the undercarriage that will stop/inhibit rust?
    Unfortunately once it has begun there's little hope. Start saving for a new galvanized frame. Anything you do to a rusty frame is a waste of time.
    Heat bypass lever only seems to run on defrost-not to floorboard as I would assume it's supposed to do when in lower position?
    Also the fiberglass top is badly sunbaked and I've got mixed reviews from detailers on what I can do to condition it?
    Does anyone know of any D-90 groups/clubs in CO?
    No help there but plenty if you go to the D-90.com forum.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    1 hour North of Rovers North
    Posts
    144

    Default

    for you top, go to a local boat dealer or repair shop, most are quite knowledgeable about gelcoats and fiberglass.
    67 angry hamsters

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Bloomfield, CT
    Posts
    1,382

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    Take the heater control cover off the end of the dash, and check that the outer tube of the control in question isn't slipping. It's just a spring clamp that holds it in place.

  6. #6

    Default

    I pulled the cover off the drivers side and all I found was the linkage to the controls? Does the 94 even have heat to the floor boards or is it all defrost?
    Perhaps I need to pull the dash on the passenger side?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    1 hour North of Rovers North
    Posts
    144

    Default

    if you remove the duct on the lower dash with a phillips screwdtiver you can see the flaps that open and close to regulate hot air flow to the floor. if the control cable is jammed you can push the flaps in with your fingers, just be careful that the mice that live in the lower dash/heater duct dont bite your fingers.
    67 angry hamsters

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
    Unfortunately once it has begun there's little hope. Start saving for a new galvanized frame. Anything you do to a rusty frame is a waste of time.
    I am the Waxoyl specialist here at Rovers North and I do not entirely disagree. Waxoyl is FANTASTIC but once your truck has the rust cancer there is only so much you can do. If you want to prolong the life of the chassis, do a thorough Waxoyl treatment on it (and bang off the existing rust before applying!) then wash it regularly if you get it salty and reapply the Waxoyl regularly. If you do not have rust issues you should not have to reapply the Waxoyl, but in a rusty situation you are bound to have places that poke back through.

    Best of luck!

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