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Thread: clean with just brake fluid/ pushrod question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Patchogue NY
    Posts
    11

    Default clean with just brake fluid/ pushrod question

    well after having fun drilling out the rusted hardware to get the dustsheild out, i;m about to attempt rebuilding the clutch master and slave which both weren't pitted inside so hopefully they will work fine afterwards.............should i just clean them out with fresh clean brake fluid? When i pulled the slave was the pushrod supposed to come out with it......being a new owner I'm finally seeing the frustration/"fun" that these trucks can be nice to get in the s2000 and have everything work nice .....

    plus i have a brandnew bullbar assembly that the previous owner bought for the truck but never put on.....anybody interested in trade from rims/tires the ones on the truck are dryrotted and skinny, don't think they will pass inspection.....

    on Long Island

    thanks guys for all the help so far
    -DOn

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    1,226

    Default

    i am in the middle of the same job. replaced the slave last oct. did clutch and prsr plate in jan. put in a new master sunday drove 3 miles and blew out the slave flex hose. cause: adjusted the mc push rod before reinstalling. had the rod adjusted too long which didn't allow the fluid to drain back into the mc, pressure built up with every shift. clutch slipped a little and pedal got harder and harder 'til the flex rupture. enjoy. and i used brake & electrical cleaner.
    Last edited by scott; 05-01-2007 at 11:22 PM.
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Washington DC
    Posts
    513

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scott
    adjusted the mc push rod before reinstalling
    well, that is how it should be done. you want just the smallest perceptible free play between the pushord end and the master cylinder piston. the factory used really thin washers on the nuts either side of the barrel @ the end of the pedal arm. I found that with a regular hardware store washer it was difficult to get the correct freeplay.
    A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    980

    Default

    Dave,

    You're right about the freeplay, but having the right amount of freeplay doesn't do any good if the pushrod in the master cylinder isn't coming back far enough to relieve the pressure.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    1,226

    Default

    the 1/16" play has to be obtain while the system is all together w/ fluid in and air out. my mistake was doing it on a bench and the mc piston was not in the full open position (allowing the fuild to return to zero pressure and the slave piston to return to its rest position). this causes the clutch to slip as the throw out bearing is still apply force to the clutch well after your foot is off the pedal. i'm thinking of cutting a hole in my wing to access the mc rod adjutment and covering it with those diamond plate wing top protectors. i really don't want to pull the wing off to adjust that rod legnth.
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    980

    Default

    Diamond plate looks pathetic. It's use on Land Rovers should be banned.

    Pull the wing you turkey.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
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    Default

    geeze that's harsh. they're not my first choice. i'm going home tonight and see if i can cut down some wrenches and get them and my hand in through the wheel well. the other option is to pull the mc, guess adj on the bench, reinstall and test. repeat as needed. wing removal doesn't look like much fun. heck i haven't reinstalled the floor boards, doors or bolted in the seat box from the cluth install. if i take off the wing, that's not really needed for wheeling, there's no telling when i'll put it back on
    Last edited by scott; 05-02-2007 at 05:22 PM.
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    980

    Default

    Why don't you pull the mudshield any see if you have enough room?
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    1,226

    Default

    i did, that's how i got the mc out and back in. (and that another part i hadn't put back). i need to go back and see if there's enough room to pull the plate off the top of the mc bracket and if there's enough to get a couple of cut down line wrenches in there. the job, wife, kid and navy reserves keep getting in the way of my time with the rove.
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    1,226

    Default

    morn'n jp

    you aren't still mad about those little red clippy things are ya?

    with the mud shield and wheel off there was plenty of room. sitting on the tire with the brake drum as a back rest it was easy to get the cover plate off the mc housing unit but i just couldn't get wrenches on the push rod nuts so i pulled it all out. there are those freak'n flanges n the end of the pedal that has the push rod nuts sort of hard to get a wrench on, even when its on the bench. any way i guess adjusted put it back in and about 11pm was out cruising the nieghborhood. drove to work today, about 7 miles with thirty or so starts and shifts and all feels good. no grind no slip
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

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