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Thread: New to the world

  1. #11

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    Where in the "Boston area" are you? I'm in Acton. Just met a great guy from Winchester. I'm trying to get a small Boston area community together, meet some "like minded" individuals... I'm a mechanic always willing to lend a hand. PM for my information.

    best
    Chris

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnyc View Post
    As posted below, get that clutch master done ASAP.
    Oh yeah--The lights and the MC should be your priorities. I forgot about the MC leak, despite having mentioned it, in my other post.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Phippsburg, ME
    Posts
    886

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    Quote Originally Posted by primerib View Post

    one tail light/ reverse light does not work (hopefully not a wiring issue
    GroundGroundGround................................ ............

    Check your ground wires - in my experience most (but certainly not all) wiring problems can be traced to bad grounds - and it's important to note that ground wires for many rear lights are grounded to the "aluminium" tub - which, as you will soon discover, turns the aluminium to white powder and kills the ground connection.

    Reground all the rear lights to the galvy trim and the problem will be solved.

    Also: The rear wiring harness takes a beating from sand and crud kicked up from the tires and the road. Plan on replacing it someday - it's no biggie and you'll clean up many problems - and you'll learn a lot..

    Welcome!

    Ted

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Plattsburgh NY area
    Posts
    1,011

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    Prime,
    nice looking truck. I have found that making a cheater wire with aligator clips on both ends is a great trouble shooting tool. This won't be the last time you will be tracing down wiring problems. I use this cheater to check for ground problems. I clip one end to a good ground on the truck and then contact the groung connection on the problem light. If it lights your sure it's the ground. I also use a test light to check source problems.
    Welcome to the sickness!
    THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
    THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
    THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
    THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
    THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
    THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Phippsburg, ME
    Posts
    886

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by siii8873 View Post
    Prime,
    nice looking truck. I have found that making a cheater wire with aligator clips on both ends is a great trouble shooting tool. This won't be the last time you will be tracing down wiring problems. I use this cheater to check for ground problems. I clip one end to a good ground on the truck and then contact the groung connection on the problem light. If it lights your sure it's the ground. I also use a test light to check source problems.
    Welcome to the sickness!
    X2.... Very good advice. And keep it handy.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    Eventually you will rebuild or repair just about every part on the vehicle.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    East Granby, CT
    Posts
    1,884

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    I'm in East Granby, CT. Not too close to Boston, but I've tinkered around a little with Rovers and I'd be willing to help out with repairs if you stop by. PM me if interested.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Boston, Ma
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Thanks a lot guys!

    I have started down the road to repairing the master cylinder and light. no luck with either yet.. But, I stopped the squeaky fan belt! So, the neighbors are a bit more pleased!

    I was looking at the master cylinder, and I have a power booster to my brakes. So two reservoirs, one for my brakes and one for my clutch master...does that mean I have a series III clutch master cylinder? and still a series two slave? I am about to order the parts. a Master and a Slave. does anyone recommend that I get any additional parts that I will most likely have to replace along the way?

    Also someone recommended the green bible. Is that:

    Land Rover 2/2A/3 1959-83 Owners Workshop Manual (Autobook Series of Workshop Manuals)

    or a different one?

    Thanks again guy! pleased to meet you all.

    Also, I discovered that i have a pinion seal leak..Is that a relatively light undertaking or is that a tricky one?

    Thanks for the help!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    43

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    A bit of a trek from Bean town but Kane Motor Car in Kingstown RI is the only place I let touch my truck and only when its too cold for me to work outside on it.

    http://www.kanemotorcar.com/

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Posts
    889

    Default

    Make sure you order a flex hose for the clutch system, it will usually break when you try and unscrew it from the slave. Have a close look at the hard line from the master to the flex hose. if it looks solid, you are fine, but if there is any rust or questionable look to it, you may as well replace it and be done with it. it will make it much easier to tighten new fittings than the old ones if it is rusted.
    Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

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