Clutch issues...

[tkneese]

So I'm there cruising my IIA through downtown waving back at people like I'm in a one car parade... I go to shift it into first and the clutch wont disengage the gearbox so it grinds and i try every gear and i get nothing. I stop the engine, put it in gear and start the engine. Having the pedal all the way to the floor it starts normally and i let the clutch out and we're off again except it engages the gear about an inch off the floorboard. I limp home and get to reading...

I bleed the clutch to cross that off the list. No change.

I was driving it daily so I don't think its "stuck" from sitting and the fact that i can start it in gear with the clutch depressed without it jumping forward like it would when its in gear has me scratching my head.

Any ideas before I take it to a shop and pay an arm and a leg for a new clutch? Any ideas are much appreciated.

-Tanner

[busboy]

The hydraulic portion is very simple, you push down on the pedal, it moves the master cylinder piston a set amount, that moves that set amount of fluid down the line to the slave cylinder that moves a fixed length rod that disengages the clutch. If some of the fluid gets lost in the process the fixed length rod will not move as far. So if the slave cylinder is leaking it can only leak out and the fluid level will drop but if the master cylinder is leaking it can leak internally, (bypassing). If it's bypassing the fluid level will not decrease but the amount of travel will depend on the rate of bypass. You can take it apart and change the internal seals but because of internal corrosion and wear I would suggest a new clutch master cylinder as they are inexpensive and easy to replace.

I should add that it is possible for the clutch lining to have come apart but the master cylinder is a lot more likely and worth trying first.

[SafeAirOne]

It sounds as if your clutch is suddenly not disengaging enough. Because of the sudden onset, I'd agree that there is some pressure or fluid loss somewhere in this very simple system. Ordinarily I don't suggest this, but if you're not into doing a whole lot of troubleshooting, you can replace the ENTIRE system at a pretty low cost (less than a mechanic will charge for diagnosis and labor to repair, I dare say) and everything will be new.

The system consists of essentially 3 items: The master cylinder, the slave cylinder and the flex line. The rest is just a few hard lines that don't often fail or wear, but check for signs leakage along the route of the hard lines anyway).

Replacing those 3 items is fairly simple, especially if you happen to have a right-hand drive rover and even more so if it's a SIII. After that, it's a simple bleed job.

[amcordo]

One other key part of the system proper fluid. Don't just use anything. Did that. It destroyed the brand new MC in a few months. Only use the genuine LR stuff or Castrol GTLMA. Other stuff might work too (others can chime in), but I can guarantee those two work fine without hurting the rubber seals.

It sounds as if your clutch is suddenly not disengaging enough. Because of the sudden onset, I'd agree that there is some pressure or fluid loss somewhere in this very simple system. Ordinarily I don't suggest this, but if you're not into doing a whole lot of troubleshooting, you can replace the ENTIRE system at a pretty low cost (less than a mechanic will charge for diagnosis and labor to repair, I dare say) and everything will be new.

The system consists of essentially 3 items: The master cylinder, the slave cylinder and the flex line. The rest is just a few hard lines that don't often fail or wear, but check for signs leakage along the route of the hard lines anyway).

Replacing those 3 items is fairly simple, especially if you happen to have a right-hand drive rover and even more so if it's a SIII. After that, it's a simple bleed job.

[amcordo]

Also... since you're about to embark on a MC (Master Cylinder) and/or Slave Cylinder replacement some hints: (sorry if you're already familiar with the job)

-It looks like a scary project the first time, but it's not. It can actually be done quickly if you just get to it.
-It is a messy job. You'll want to cover any nice paint that's near the project with a good rag. This fluid will strip paint easily.
-To get to the MC in the engine bay remove the wing (fender), don't waste your time trying to jimmy the MC out without doing that. Removing the fender is only a handful of bolts, and if they're rusted on use this as an excuse to put new bolts on. Bolts are near your footwell, along the bulkhead leading up to the windshield, on a support that holds up the bulkhead (firewall) and on the breakfast (front grill).
-To get to the SC (to replace it, and or to bleed the system) remove your floor in front of the passenger seat (if it's a Left Hand Drive).
-Have a friend or partner help you bleed the system
-Don't put anything together until you've tested it thoroughly.
-Make sure the lines are secure and not leaking before reassembly

[sleam]

Thanks for this thread. It's just what I needed to hear as I've had the same problem this week. No loss of fluid but loss of ability to disengage. I'll order the parts and see about getting help! thanks again, sarah