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Thread: Door Capping

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Dadeville, Alabama
    Posts
    37

    Default Door Capping

    Trying to remove upper doors from 88' and the capping is stuck to the rubber gasket. What is holding the caping to the door as it comes up 1/4 inch from the door and the schematics i've seen only show the 2 bolts from the upper to the door. Question? Do I separate the rubber abd capping or is it safe to pull off the capping with the door tops Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Phippsburg, ME
    Posts
    886

    Default

    The capping is riveted to the door - 3 or 4 rivets - can't remember.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    The Granite State (NH)
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TedW View Post
    The capping is riveted to the door - 3 or 4 rivets - can't remember.

    Yeah. It should come off with the door top. There's no attachment betwen the rubber and the capping, except through age in your case.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Posts
    889

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    To clarify the above posts, the capping should NOT come off with the door top. the rubber should. You need to separate the rubber from the capping with a putty knife, and will most likely need some new rubber seals. the capping will need to be re-riveted to the lower door.
    Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

  5. #5
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    Apr 2008
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    The Granite State (NH)
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stomper View Post
    To clarify the above posts, the capping should NOT come off with the door top. the rubber should. You need to separate the rubber from the capping with a putty knife, and will most likely need some new rubber seals. the capping will need to be re-riveted to the lower door.
    Thanks, James! Yes I was talking about the rubber with the doortop. I just reized that the phrase I quoted had "capping" in it.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Posts
    889

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    I thought it was my lack of coffee stupor this morning, but I read your post 3 times, and I was scratching my head. I knew what you meant, but I was thinking it just didn't sound right!
    Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Dadeville, Alabama
    Posts
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    Thanks, that is what I thought. The bolts seem to be at an angle that prevent them from coming straight up and out. Truck had a complete nut and bolt restore in 1999. How aggressive can and should I get? i do not want to do more damage but want these tops off for the summer months. Ithought about putting a ratchet in the bolt with the nut and use it to leverage it out after I loosen the rubber gasket form the capping. Ideas please!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Bergen County NJ
    Posts
    265

    Default

    maybe cut or find some thin long wooden wedges and tap tap them in there to get it to budge..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    The Granite State (NH)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadevilledisco View Post
    The bolts seem to be at an angle that prevent them from coming straight up and out. Truck had a complete nut and bolt restore in 1999. How aggressive can and should I get? i do not want to do more damage but want these tops off for the summer months. Ithought about putting a ratchet in the bolt with the nut and use it to leverage it out after I loosen the rubber gasket form the capping. Ideas please!
    The doortop studs should be at a slight angle to give the top of the door an inward lean to match the angle of the roof sides, but the studs should be parallel with each other and shouldn't cause any binding in the holes.

    Often times, water gets into the stud holes with the doortop installed and if you aren't in the habit of removing your doortops annually, the studs can rust solid in the holes, where it becomes necessary to start sacrificing body parts inder to separate the two.

    I know of one particular rover where the doortop was sawed off and the studs STILL couldn't be pounded, burned or drilled out of the door bottoms.

    What I'm leading up to is that yours might be in the beginning stages of being rusted in, but you may have caught it in time if you still have some vertical movement when you try to separate the door halves. Presuming this is your issue, I'd try to get some sort of penetrating oil in there and work the doortop up and down till enough corrosion breaks free that you can separate the pieces. The wooden shims (Home Depot/Lowe's, etc...) mentioed above are also a good idea. Note that the studs have to come out relatively evenly, lest you cock it forward or aft and jam up the works.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    41

    Default

    I was in a similar situation this past winter when we were removing the door tops to replace the window tracks. In the end a combination of pry bars (being careful not to bend or damage the upper window or the galvanized door trim), wood wedges, PB Blaster, propane torch (just on the nuts/studs at the bottom... very risky and I had a fire extinguisher right there just in case), and wooden blocks and steel pipes to place against the studs and hammer from the bottom (I placed the nuts on flush with the bottom of the studs to get the largest area to pound against and not damage the threads). If you use any of these methods do so at your own risk... I'll fully admit that I was in a rush and while I lucked out I could have easily broken something or damaged something very easily. If your door tops are able to move a little bit I would suggest the same as above, soak them with penetrating oil every day, and spend a few minutes just sliding the tops up and down to loosen things up more. Good luck!

    Edit: One more thing... if the rubber gasket is sticking to the door bottom I have found that Simple Green does a wonderful job of softening rubber without damaging it. I also soaked the gaskets on our doors to loosen them up.
    ~Neil

    1974 Series III 88
    1955 Chevy 3200 truck

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