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Thread: Roof rack feet

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Bergen County NJ
    Posts
    265

    Default

    If the holes are already there from the rack/PO, you might as well just use 'em..
    ---- 1969 Bugeye ----
    ---- 1962 Dormobile ----

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

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    Looking at your pictures I would guess that there should be a bracket that fits into the gutter w/ hold-down clamps and then the rack would bolt to it. The hole in your rack appears to be very large to be bolting through a gutter, can't imagine there would be any strength left. I have a Brownchurch rack on my DII and it is similar to Photographer's photo above...the rack fit's into the gutter then there is a hold-down clamp that clamps under the gutter. Can't say as though I've ever seen any rack that bolts through the gutter.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Bergen County NJ
    Posts
    265

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    yeah, on second thought, if all you have are 4 of those little tabby leg things with bolts, its not going to be too sturdy.. The patriot rack pictured above has it right. I'd attach wider feet and fab up clamps.. Especially if you plan on really using the rack.
    ---- 1969 Bugeye ----
    ---- 1962 Dormobile ----

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

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    My first instinct says to do something like this, though with a little more thought, this could be greatly simplified:

    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    I put in a call to Brownchurch about this very subject a short while back. The holes in the feet are from the factory, the feet are designed to be bolted to the coachroof gutter. They intend for you to drill holes in your precious gutter!
    I used to have little one inch c-clamps holding it on, which worked OK. I am going to come up with something different for remounting my rack (just picked up from galvy with a shiny new coat of zinc) which will be as effective but less invasive than the Brownchurch method.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    103

    Default

    O2batsea, like to see you ideas or solutions. I have the same exact rack with holes in the feet. About to paint my roof and want to make sure I have the best option for securing the rack. If its drilling holes thats ok too, but I want to make sure it is. Thanks!
    1996 Discovery SE7 5spd -SOLD
    1962 Series 2a 88"

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    Well, honestly the best way is to poke a hole in the gutter and bolt the thing down as they tell you to. This has several good points to consider. One, there is no hardware on the "outside" of the rack feet to snag on obstacles. Two, it's pretty darn secure an non rattling. And finally it's a really simple solution.
    All that said, I am not going to drill holes in my newly galvanized roof gutter. What I may do is take advantage of the holes that are already there; the rivet holes. Since they are located every inch or so I can make a simple bracket that is L shaped in profile, and put holes along the bottom of the L that match up to the roof rivets. 4 or maybe even 6. A single hole in the top of the L for a turnbuckle or j bolt which will attach to one of the square tubes, probably in one of the relief holes. I have to think about this a little more as I might have two holes in the top of the bracket and run two turnbuckles one angled forward and one angled back. That would prevent the rack from creeping.
    These brackets can be permanently installed, so that removing the rack is just a matter of undoing the turnbuckles or j bolts or whatever. The nice thing is that these will also stay "Inboard" of the gutter so will be less likely to snag. They can be installed with pop rivets or 5/32nds machine screws and nuts (are those size 8 or 6? can't remember). A little 5200 under them to seal out the water and that's that.

  8. #18

    Default Roof rack feet

    I'd modify it to some sort of clamp. Below are pics of how RN used to build their SS racks. Not sure if they still do this or not.

    Foot side view:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Foot inline view:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Foot with clamp hardware:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm about a month away from actually installing this rack (roof rebuild not yet complete). so I' cannot say how well they work.
    Tom P.
    1965 exMoD 109
    1995 RRC LWB w/EAS

  9. #19

    Default bolts

    There is nothing as secure as the through bolted feet. The clamps tend to get hung up on trees and branches .




    Quote Originally Posted by luckyjoe View Post
    I'd modify it to some sort of clamp. Below are pics of how RN used to build their SS racks. Not sure if they still do this or not.

    Foot side view:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	RN_rack_foot1.jpg 
Views:	252 
Size:	33.5 KB 
ID:	6905

    Foot inline view:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	RN_rack_foot2.jpg 
Views:	264 
Size:	21.4 KB 
ID:	6906

    Foot with clamp hardware:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	RN_rack_foot3.jpg 
Views:	245 
Size:	27.4 KB 
ID:	6907

    I'm about a month away from actually installing this rack (roof rebuild not yet complete). so I' cannot say how well they work.
    1968 battlefield ambulance/camper
    1963 Unimog Radio box
    1995 LWB RR

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