Sounds like your diagnosis is making progress. Before I would change the IAC I would clean it out with some carb cleaner. Take both rubber hoses off and then squirt the cleaner in from both sides. also make sure there are no damaged wires at the electrical connector for the IAC (like mouse chew marks, don't laugh, seen that more times than you would think, apparently rodents like the taste of wire insulation) If none of this works then my next step would be replacing the IAC. When you pinched off the valve and the symptoms disappeared you confirmed the source of the condition.
Originally Posted by
parrie
Thanks again guys. Last evening I went over everything that I can see and could not find any obvious intake leak. Also confirmed that the plate is closing. I removed the IAC for inspection but not really sure what position valve should be in...the valve itself moves freely however it is not in the closed position (should it be?). I cleaned it up and re-installed but there was no change, starts & idles fine, hit the gas and the rpms rise w/o returning to normal. Gale, I did your air hose squeeze test with the engine stuck on high rpm and sure enough the rpms dropped down to normal idle. If your theory is correct it looks like I need a new IAC wouldn't you say?
PJ, if your still out there, how are you making out getting your started?
Gale Breitkreutz
'03 Disco
'74 Series III 88 (sold, 4/13)
'47 CJ2A