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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Thanks again guys. Last evening I went over everything that I can see and could not find any obvious intake leak. Also confirmed that the plate is closing. I removed the IAC for inspection but not really sure what position valve should be in...the valve itself moves freely however it is not in the closed position (should it be?). I cleaned it up and re-installed but there was no change, starts & idles fine, hit the gas and the rpms rise w/o returning to normal. Gale, I did your air hose squeeze test with the engine stuck on high rpm and sure enough the rpms dropped down to normal idle. If your theory is correct it looks like I need a new IAC wouldn't you say?

    PJ, if your still out there, how are you making out getting your started?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Shoreline, WA
    Posts
    408

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    Sounds like your diagnosis is making progress. Before I would change the IAC I would clean it out with some carb cleaner. Take both rubber hoses off and then squirt the cleaner in from both sides. also make sure there are no damaged wires at the electrical connector for the IAC (like mouse chew marks, don't laugh, seen that more times than you would think, apparently rodents like the taste of wire insulation) If none of this works then my next step would be replacing the IAC. When you pinched off the valve and the symptoms disappeared you confirmed the source of the condition.
    Quote Originally Posted by parrie View Post
    Thanks again guys. Last evening I went over everything that I can see and could not find any obvious intake leak. Also confirmed that the plate is closing. I removed the IAC for inspection but not really sure what position valve should be in...the valve itself moves freely however it is not in the closed position (should it be?). I cleaned it up and re-installed but there was no change, starts & idles fine, hit the gas and the rpms rise w/o returning to normal. Gale, I did your air hose squeeze test with the engine stuck on high rpm and sure enough the rpms dropped down to normal idle. If your theory is correct it looks like I need a new IAC wouldn't you say?

    PJ, if your still out there, how are you making out getting your started?
    Gale Breitkreutz
    '03 Disco
    '74 Series III 88 (sold, 4/13)
    '47 CJ2A

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Thanks Gale. I would never laugh at mouse chew marks, little rascles are the enemy! Did a complete inspection of the IAC and cleaned it up but no go. Before I spend the +/-$200 on a new one I'm gonna see if I can pick-up a $30 used one of ebay. I'll post the results. Thanks again!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    10

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    The scanner we used was OBDII, so good to know. I'll look into a better scanner and will check with the dealer, they may be willing to read the codes for me at no charge, they've helped me out with info and advice before. I did look thru the RAVE manual, quite a lengthy read, and it does have great info. It's a little over my head at times, but I'm getting there. It definitely helps. I'm gonna look into the wiring first, trace it all and make sure everything looks ok, as long as I can get it to start I'll be able to get over to the dealer for the codes. Thanks.

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