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Thread: Exhaust Manifold Replacement

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  1. #1

    Default Exhaust Manifold Replacement

    My S109 has developed a leak around the exhaust manifold. It looks like some type of silicone sealant was applied to it before. The mating flange to the exhaust pipe also has one of the corners cracked off so I am replacing the manifold.

    I have purchased the manifold, fixing kit and gasket to replace the manifold. Is there anything else I should pickup prior to starting work?

    I will review the manual but would it help to remove the drivers side fender to get easier access to the manifold?

    Rick
    73 xMOD S3 109
    52 M37

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    337

    Default

    I just did this job two weekends ago. I decided not to remove the wing as mine is a LHD and all the steering bs would still be in the way. I recommend soaking the bolts with some PB Blaster or the like a day or two before tearing into it. There's a chance you'll need to replace some of the hardware too.

    Reassembly is much easier if you loosely install the exhaust manifold first before sliding the intake down on top. Those little spreader nut/bolt things are a pain to get started with both manifolds in place. Remember to keep it as loose as you can as there are two locating dowels on the head you need to sneak the intake by.
    '67 sIIa 88

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by east high View Post

    Reassembly is much easier if you loosely install the exhaust manifold first before sliding the intake down on top. Those little spreader nut/bolt things are a pain to get started with both manifolds in place. Remember to keep it as loose as you can as there are two locating dowels on the head you need to sneak the intake by.
    Check that your intake manifold fits on the new exhaust manifold before you even try to put anything back together. I had to grind a bit of the cast material of the exhaust manifold to get my intake to fit on. I took both off attached together and also assembled the two before installing. Enjoy the smell of the new manifold.
    1973 NADA 88

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Plattsburgh NY area
    Posts
    1,011

    Default

    I also did this job recently except it was both the intake and exhaust which I did not seperate. Be sure to put everything in loose and make sure the dowel pins engage in the manifold befor tieghtening everything up. Mine was a real tight fit on the outer holes and had to be aligned very well to engage on the pins.
    I like the brass nuts idea, think I will change mine over.
    THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
    THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
    THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
    THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
    THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
    THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by siii8873 View Post
    I like the brass nuts idea, think I will change mine over.
    It's time well-spent.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  6. #6

    Default

    The manifold replacment went pretty easily it took a bit longer then expected as I did not order new studs for the intake/exhaust manifold connection and the old ones were pretty much welded into the old exhaust manifold.

    After installing the manifold the truck now sounds like crap. seems like alot of valve noise. I torqued everything down as per the instructions and installed all bolts in there previous locations.

    I have to adjust the valves and timing to see if that resolves the issue.

    Rick
    73 xMOD S3 109
    52 M37

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rickv100 View Post
    After installing the manifold the truck now sounds like crap. seems like alot of valve noise. I torqued everything down as per the instructions and installed all bolts in there previous locations.
    Valve noise? Like a ticking? Not sure how manifold work would affect the valves. However, an exhaust leak at the manifold = loud ticking sound.

    I'd get a length of vacuum hose, stick one end in my ear and probe around the manifold area with the other end till I found the leak, were it me.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  8. #8

    Default

    Any exhaust leak will make it sound like its ticking. Usually a culprit is the joint to the exhaust pipe. The ball and socket of this must be cleaned and I use some exhaust cement to make sure on these. Rust and old hardened crap will make it impossible to seal properly once removed.

    Note to self: must tighten up mine as it has left black spots on the down pipe.

  9. #9

    Default

    Thanks for the tip. Does anyone know if I can use Permatex Copper Anti-Seize instead of the Foliac J166 called for in the manual?

    Rick
    73 xMOD S3 109
    52 M37

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Rick, I've used the copper anti-seize on numerous exhaust projects as well as hi-temp industrial applications, it should be fine. Make sure the threads are clean and free of dirt/rust.

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