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Thread: Exhaust Manifold Replacement

  1. #1

    Default Exhaust Manifold Replacement

    My S109 has developed a leak around the exhaust manifold. It looks like some type of silicone sealant was applied to it before. The mating flange to the exhaust pipe also has one of the corners cracked off so I am replacing the manifold.

    I have purchased the manifold, fixing kit and gasket to replace the manifold. Is there anything else I should pickup prior to starting work?

    I will review the manual but would it help to remove the drivers side fender to get easier access to the manifold?

    Rick
    73 xMOD S3 109
    52 M37

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    337

    Default

    I just did this job two weekends ago. I decided not to remove the wing as mine is a LHD and all the steering bs would still be in the way. I recommend soaking the bolts with some PB Blaster or the like a day or two before tearing into it. There's a chance you'll need to replace some of the hardware too.

    Reassembly is much easier if you loosely install the exhaust manifold first before sliding the intake down on top. Those little spreader nut/bolt things are a pain to get started with both manifolds in place. Remember to keep it as loose as you can as there are two locating dowels on the head you need to sneak the intake by.
    '67 sIIa 88

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for the tip. Does anyone know if I can use Permatex Copper Anti-Seize instead of the Foliac J166 called for in the manual?

    Rick
    73 xMOD S3 109
    52 M37

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Not sure of the 2.25 manifold setup (whether bolts or studs are used), but I've taken my cue from the aviation maintenance community and used brass nuts to secure the manifolds on my 2.5. That way, I'll never have to worry about breaking off a stud when I have to mess with the manifolds 10 years from now.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    216

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    Quote Originally Posted by east high View Post

    Reassembly is much easier if you loosely install the exhaust manifold first before sliding the intake down on top. Those little spreader nut/bolt things are a pain to get started with both manifolds in place. Remember to keep it as loose as you can as there are two locating dowels on the head you need to sneak the intake by.
    Check that your intake manifold fits on the new exhaust manifold before you even try to put anything back together. I had to grind a bit of the cast material of the exhaust manifold to get my intake to fit on. I took both off attached together and also assembled the two before installing. Enjoy the smell of the new manifold.
    1973 NADA 88

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Rick, I've used the copper anti-seize on numerous exhaust projects as well as hi-temp industrial applications, it should be fine. Make sure the threads are clean and free of dirt/rust.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Plattsburgh NY area
    Posts
    1,011

    Default

    I also did this job recently except it was both the intake and exhaust which I did not seperate. Be sure to put everything in loose and make sure the dowel pins engage in the manifold befor tieghtening everything up. Mine was a real tight fit on the outer holes and had to be aligned very well to engage on the pins.
    I like the brass nuts idea, think I will change mine over.
    THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
    THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
    THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
    THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
    THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
    THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

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    Quote Originally Posted by siii8873 View Post
    I like the brass nuts idea, think I will change mine over.
    It's time well-spent.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    East Granby, CT
    Posts
    1,884

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rickv100 View Post
    Does anyone know if I can use Permatex Copper Anti-Seize instead of the Foliac J166 called for in the manual?
    I don't think your question is fully understood, that's why people are talking about using anti-seize on the threads.

    According to the manual, they want you to use the J166 anti-seize on the mating surfaces between the head and exhaust manifold only. This is called out because originally there was no gasket between the exhaust manifold and head, only between the intake manifold and head. Now it is typical to use a single gasket that seals both the intake & exhaust manifolds to the head, so no anti-seize is required on the manifolds or head.

  10. #10

    Default

    There is better luck had in using the one piece gasket that seals the intake and exhaust ports. The later two gaskets to seal just the intake was a "later" rover idea. I say it in quotes as I have no idea when the change was made

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