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Thread: Rear Crossmember or Chassis

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    But, I disagree with my comrads in arms that a rear cross member replacement is almost as much work as a frame replacement.
    Well, what I really mean is that if I had a fresh new galvy frame on hand and a janky 2A that had a bad rear cross member, I would just go and do the frame swap rather than patch the bad chassis. If I was gonna keep it, that is.
    I will add that if the bulkhead proves to be full of rust, your best option for repair parts is Pegasus Parts in the UK. They have as close to genuine as you can get.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Auckland, NZ
    Posts
    451

    Default

    Do the chassis swap. Buy yourself a set of fasteners and fixings before you begin. Whole lot cheaper than and less stressful than getting to the final stages and realising you don't have the right size/type of fasteners or fixings.

    http://www.landrover-parts.net/
    Alan

    109 Stage 1 V8 ex-army FFR
    2005 Disco 2 HSE

    http://www.youtube.com/user/alalit

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    West Caldwell, NJ
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by disco2hse View Post
    Do the chassis swap. Buy yourself a set of fasteners and fixings before you begin. Whole lot cheaper than and less stressful than getting to the final stages and realising you don't have the right size/type of fasteners or fixings.

    http://www.landrover-parts.net/
    While I've heard that the above link for bolts is an amazing set, does anyone know of a cheaper place for bolts, or even better, a list of needed bolts?

    I did find this one kit: http://www.aseriesspares.co.uk/class...prod_1301.html ... while cheaper, i'm still wondering if it'll have everything I need, or if I'm better off just going to a local fastenal or something.
    --Ryan

    Current:
    1966 Series IIa "Olive"
    2006 LR3 HSE
    2003 Discovery II

    Former:
    2001 Discovery II
    1994 Defender 90 #416

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Auckland, NZ
    Posts
    451

    Default

    Consider the price of a compiled set that has the requisite number of fasteners and fittings versus sourcing and buying the individual components when you don't yet know the sizes or number required or what clips and other fittings you need.

    Seems to me clear which is the cheaper option.

    On the other hand, just buy a job lot of anything and make them fit. That'll be even cheaper.
    Alan

    109 Stage 1 V8 ex-army FFR
    2005 Disco 2 HSE

    http://www.youtube.com/user/alalit

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Edmonton AB
    Posts
    202

    Default

    Personally I recommend getting a generic bolt and lock nut in either UNF or UNC I just didn't see the point of using lock washers or trying to find BSF nuts and bolts. I did buy the factory floor screws but never used them, Slotted heads, give me a break it's not the stone age, I went with a 10mm hex head, although my floors are aluminum checker plate they are still quite slippery with snow on the boots so the hex head screws just give a little more grip. The cost of buying generic hardware was very low but worth the money in time saved.
    1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

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