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Thread: Diff Lock stuck

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    36

    Default Diff Lock stuck

    I just got a '97 Disco and can't seem to get the diff lock to engage. It switches between high low range just fine but it just won't move into diff lock. I asked the previous owner and he didn't even know there was a diff lock or what it did. So I'm not sure when the last time it was engaged if ever.

    Anybody have any suggestions.

    Thanks

    Buddy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    33

    Default Diff Lock Problem

    This is a typical problem on these vehicles. Some previous owners never use the diff lock or low range and the transfer gearbox levers sieze. You'll need to get to the selector assembly on top of the gearbox, soak it with penetrating oil and gently work the lever loose. Go easy because some of the linkage componants have been known to snap.

    Arthur

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    twisties~Vermont tarmac rallye style
    Posts
    1,066

    Default

    Here's the Discovery I transfercase illustration.

    As you can see, the diff lock mechanism is comprised of a lot of little parts that require lubrication and operation to keep in top condition. Unfortunately, to do the job properly, you will need to open 'er up and get after it...

    Hope this helps, all the parts are listed below in case you happen to break something or might possibly need replacement.

    18. RND640 LINK ARM - DIFF LOCK LT230
    19. RND641 CLIP - CLEVIS PIN TSFR LVR LT230T
    20. RND642 RETAINING CLIP
    21. RND643 CLEVIS PIN - TRANSFER LEVER LT230T
    22. RND644 RETAINER CLIP - CLEVIS PIN
    23. RND642 RETAINING CLIP
    24. RND645 PIVOT PIN - DIFF LOCK ROD
    25. RND646 LINK ROD - TRANSFER BOX LT230
    26. RND647 CLEVIS - TRANSFER LINKAGE LT 230
    27. RND648 BUSH - GEAR SHAFT LT230
    28. RNE157 NUT - M8
    29. RNE450 NUT - M8
    30. RNE469 NYLOC NUT - M8
    31. RND649 LINK CONNECTING - LT230
    32. RND650 GASKET - GEAR CHANGER LT85
    33. RND651 SPRING PIN - TRANSFER LINK
    34. RND456 WASHER - FLAT 8MM I.D. (used in many other places...)
    35. RND652 HOUSING - DIFF LOCK SELECTOR LT230
    36. RND653 O-RING TRANSFER CASE
    37. RND654 O-RING TRANSFER CASE
    38. RND651 SPRING PIN - TRANSFER LINK
    --- RND655 CLIP
    39. RND656 SWITCH - DIFF LOCK/REVERSE
    40. RND657 NUT (again, used in many other places...)
    41. RND658 GROMMET - TRANSFER LEVER - LT230
    42. RND659 GASKET - TRANSFER LEVER TOP LT230
    43. RND660 BALL END SEAT - TRANSFER
    44. RND661 CLEVIS PIN
    45. RND662 CLEVIS PIN
    46. RNH313 CLIP - COUNTERSHAFT RETAIN DISCOVERY I
    Last edited by TSR53; 03-26-2007 at 10:17 AM.
    Cheers, Thompson
    Art Director, Rovers Magazine
    Rovers North, Inc.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    36

    Default thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by acpatsouris
    This is a typical problem on these vehicles. Some previous owners never use the diff lock or low range and the transfer gearbox levers sieze. You'll need to get to the selector assembly on top of the gearbox, soak it with penetrating oil and gently work the lever loose. Go easy because some of the linkage componants have been known to snap.

    Arthur
    Thanks I'll have to give it a go once I have time to pull the center consol out.

    Buddy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Glenwood,N.B. Canada
    Posts
    78

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Buddy
    Thanks I'll have to give it a go once I have time to pull the center consol out.

    Buddy
    First time i did this fix i was about 6 hours, the consol removal and installation taking the most time.......there are a few pop rivets holding the gaitor retainer in place which have to be drilled out...... nice to have a Shop Vac on hand to keep things tidy........ you will also need a pop rivett gun and some 3/16" rivetts for the re-install........

    Once you have the CDL unit in your sights try some WD 40 and gental side to side persuation, do not use excessive force or heat of any kind there is a nylon bushing under the lever which protrudes up thru the cross shaft.

    If this easy approach dosn't work....and it may not.......

    remove the CDL unit to your bench and take it apart, you may have to use the wire brush of your bench grinder to clean up the crossshaft....

    Lubricate everything well before assembly i use a mixture of gun grease and anti-sieze

    As the British say re-fitting is the reversal of the above

    ps: the crosshaft, if damaged , is pricey to replace, over $100.00

    one last thing.........test the engagement of everything before installing the pop rivetts especially if you have frigged with the linkage in any way.......ask me how i know

    regards;
    Dave
    Last edited by landi41; 10-30-2006 at 01:58 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    twisties~Vermont tarmac rallye style
    Posts
    1,066

    Default

    Super tips! Great! Thanks for the DIY R&R on this.
    Cheers, Thompson
    Art Director, Rovers Magazine
    Rovers North, Inc.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by landi41
    one last thing.........test the engagement of everything before installing the pop rivetts especially if you have frigged with the linkage in any way.......ask me how i know

    regards;
    Dave
    Thanks Dave
    I got it working this weekend although it was quite fun. The center console came out without too much hassle. Too bad I can't say the same thing for the shift mechanisim. The shaft was so ceased up it was not going to move at all. So I decided to remove the unit. Well lucky for me the retaining pin had also ceased up inside the saft. So after about an hour and a half of prying the diff lock lever apart and chiseling the pin out I finally removed it. Ater a good bit of persuading with a hammer I finally got the shaft to start moving. I cleaned off all the rust and applied a healthy helping of grease to anything that could posibly move and reassembeled after bending bending the diff lock lever back to normal. :-) All seems to work now.

    Thanks for all the pointers.

    Buddy.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    320

    Default

    A bit of preventitive maintainence I do is to completely mummify all these components with tons of grease whenever it is remotely convenient to do so.

    This keeps everything working perfectly.

    Also, it helps to use low range and the diff lock occasionally, even if you don't venture off-road very often.
    Photographer / writer for LRM (until they screwed me).
    1995 110 Regular
    300Tdi, Series and Defender repairs in CT

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sandbach
    Posts
    4

    Red face Dif lock stuck

    Hi Buddy,

    I have the same problem with my 97 Discovery. Have you anything else to add that might be helpful? I'll get out there with my can of penetrating oil, but wonder how much fuss it is to do?

    Seems to me though, that a Landy without dif lock is handicapped!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sirloincloth
    Hi Buddy,

    I have the same problem with my 97 Discovery. Have you anything else to add that might be helpful? I'll get out there with my can of penetrating oil, but wonder how much fuss it is to do?

    Seems to me though, that a Landy without dif lock is handicapped!
    Hmm I would say give yourself at least a half a day just incase things get complex. Mine was a pretty big pain in the behind because the shaft that slides side to side. (can't think of the proper name) was totaly ceased up in the aluminium bushing that is the end cap of the shift unit. The other thing was that the pin holding the shaft to the linkage was also ceased up in the shaft.

    Advice? hmm pull the center console out this is fairly simple just go slow if you've never done it all the screws are fairly easy to find. I had to unhook my parking break cable to get it out. Then once it's removed Drill out the rivets for the Diff lock lever. This will reveal the linkage. If you can get the retaining pin out of the linkage then you can remove it fairly easy and it will be easier to free up once out of the vehicle. I used a hammer and lot's of penetrating oil till the shaft finally started to move then I pushed it all the way to the back and sanded off all the rust and applied lot's of grease I kept working it till it moved freely.

    Check to make sure the diff lock works by moving the lever with a pair of pliers to ensure that It is not the problem. Once everything is moving put it all back together again. I made sure to pack mine totally full of grease to try and avoid this happening again. Make sure to test the lever before you rivet the cover back on.

    I also had to chissel out the retaining pin and pry my likage bar apart to get it removed let's hope you don't have that problem.

    If you have a specific question let me know you can always email me at tfricke at gmail dot com since I don't check this board very often.

    Good luck and remember installation is the reverse of removal.
    Last edited by Buddy; 12-22-2006 at 10:04 PM.

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