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Thread: Hub problem

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Edmonton AB
    Posts
    202

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    Quote Originally Posted by leafsprung View Post
    Part number is 561886 - 9/16 BSF x1.21/32 press in stud

    Busboy - this is the press in late SIIA alternative to the thread in type you have.

    -cheers -Ike

    Les Parker... RN stocks that stud, # PLC405 @ $2.72 each.
    Currently we have good stock.
    It does mean removing the hub, though. Still, a perfect time to repack the bearings and check the hub oil seal, anyway.

    Thank you both for your reply, after breaking out the vernier those two numbers seem the same at 1 21/32 (1.656) INCLUDING the head so the threaded portion is actually shorter than the screw in type stud which might work for factory rims but I need a pull in that has a threaded portion 0.150 longer than the original thread in ones so 1.8 inches minimum NOT including the head.
    1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

  2. #12

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    That info was mostly for gogo to fix his hub without replacing it but also to let you know that there was in fact a press in stud made for late SIIA. Regarding your need for a longer stud - you may have to make some studs if you want BSF. If you cant manage it - I may be able to make some for you. Some things you might consider - 1) Use metric studs, there is a defender HD wheel stud FRC7577 which is 60mm with the head (2.36 in) 2) convert to disc brakes - this will allow you to use just a bit more of the stud as you will have no drum

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Edmonton AB
    Posts
    202

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    I have tried that FRC7577 it would be too long but I could cut it or remove the hubs to install them, I just thought there HAS to be a pull in stud out there the correct length and diameter not taking into account the thread but I have been unable to find one so far. The only ones suitable have too much of an unthreaded shank and are way too long. I don't want to custom make something as it presents too much of a problem for getting a replacement quickly. I had thought about converting the front to discs but not all 4 that is something to chew on. I had also thought about using the 561886 ones and counter boring the back face of the hub 150 thou, I'm sure the hubs could take it. If the hubs were aluminum I could use a back spot face to avoid pulling the hubs but that wouldn't work in this case. The wheel stud conversion project is still there just on hold for now.
    1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

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    Quote Originally Posted by gogo34 View Post
    Wow! It sounds like that may be a solution. What does it take to install the press in style? Special equipment, take the hub off, etc?
    It depends on your competency level but for most it's probably easiest to remove the hub. You drill out the existing hole to the root diameter of the splines on the new studs. You can hand drill them I suppose or you can put them in a drill press\bridgeport and do it that way. Get a nice rigid, spuare setup and you won't have any problems. The rims are lugcentric so you need to make sure you're on center to the existing threaded hole or you may end up with excessive runout of the rim or lug nuts that fight one another when tightened.
    Once the holes are drilled out you can press them in or draw them in using a spacer (washers) and a lug nut. I prefer to use the flat side of the lug nut so it doesn't distort the spacer or damage the nut.

    FWIW I like the SIII lug nuts and studs and would do them all at somepoint if I were you.
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    58

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    Quote Originally Posted by I Leak Oil View Post
    It depends on your competency level but for most it's probably easiest to remove the hub. You drill out the existing hole to the root diameter of the splines on the new studs. You can hand drill them I suppose or you can put them in a drill press\bridgeport and do it that way. Get a nice rigid, spuare setup and you won't have any problems. The rims are lugcentric so you need to make sure you're on center to the existing threaded hole or you may end up with excessive runout of the rim or lug nuts that fight one another when tightened.
    Once the holes are drilled out you can press them in or draw them in using a spacer (washers) and a lug nut. I prefer to use the flat side of the lug nut so it doesn't distort the spacer or damage the nut.

    FWIW I like the SIII lug nuts and studs and would do them all at somepoint if I were you.
    Thanks guys. I think I'll try the press in route. I'll let you know how it turns out.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    city of maples
    Posts
    398

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    I've done this alot over the years , the replacement studs are shorter. you can buy these thru our host. Yes you will need to remove the hub to do it properly, the replacment stud willl have threads , splines and the shoulder. I over drill the hub to match the opposite end ( the flatten end, looks like a nail head) by about 1/4 inch at the most ,press it in to match the correct length, and tack it with a welder.

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