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Thread: Click and squeal won't start

  1. #1

    Default Click and squeal won't start

    Title sums it up. I have managed to get it to reluctantly turn over a couple of times after sitting, but after checking the battery, cleaning up the contacts and grounds, and even installing a brand-new solenoid, I am left with the death click followed by the squeal. Starter was rebuilt back in May. Was running fine until the temps dropped, and this has been the problem since.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Edmonton AB
    Posts
    202

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    Could the coolant be frozen and the fan belt is squealing on the frozen water pump pulley. Try turning the engine over with the crank handle.
    1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks, BB, but the squeal sounds like it's coming from the firewall, and happens after the click when I turn the key. Then nada.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Edmonton AB
    Posts
    202

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    I would still try turning the engine with the crank handle, if you can turn it over try starting it with the crank. The engine could still be frozen and the squeal could be the starter solenoid?
    1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

  5. #5

    Default

    Ok, rolled it over a couple of times by hand, (not to start it) and turned the key and got it going. Still made the squeal when it turned the switch.

  6. #6

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    Shut it off and tried it again...and back to nothing. Squeal coming from solenoid.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

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    You may not be getting enough juice to keep the contacts latched. Or not enough juice to turn the starter. I'm completely serious when I say this, my lawn tractor squeels when the battery is under charged or is dying. The starter wants to turn but because there are no longer enough amps it just squeels. I replace the battery in that damn tractor every 3 years or so and it does the same thing every time.

    How did you check the battery? Just the idle voltage or did you load test it? The battery cables could be bad too even though the connections are clean. Get a set of jumper cables direct to the starter and see what it does. Work your way back from there.
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

  8. #8

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    Battery was checked and topped up at Sears. I guess I'll throw it on the charger and start fresh. Thanks for the suggestions so far. This is frustrating to say the least.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Edmonton AB
    Posts
    202

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    Check the head lights are brightly lit when on, if not it could be the battery is low but it may also be the body ground is bad but the engine ground is good. This would mean the solenoid is not getting 12 volts to keep it engaged.
    1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

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    Don't get frustrated. These are very simple electrical systems and if you go at them methodically you'll find it pretty quick. Get another car and get a set of jumper cables, - side to a good ground on the block, + side to the + lug on the starter. If it turns then you can work back from the starter from there. A test light and multimeter can get you a lot of info quick.
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

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