Series IIA Engine Woes

[mearstrae]

The socket size is 13/16th of an inch. Old cars (and tractors) use these larger plugs.

'95 RRC Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[fbnksrover]

Whew. Thanks for that. Got the spark plugs out, but made a rookie mistake. The wires from the distributor weren't labeled, so now I don't know which wire goes to which spark plug. My green bible says 1342 firing order, but not sure which wire goes where?

[fbnksrover]

Okay, I attahed some pictures to see if anyone can comment on my handiwork. Engine will turn, but won't catch. I'm going to try to attach a video to see if anyone can identify what may be the problem.

[fbnksrover]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUy_N...ature=youtu.be

So, here is the link to the video. God forbid it work, because the little guy won't. Here is a list of things I have done to him within the last 24 hours:

- Removed the distributor cap and all of the innards down to the base plate, and then replaced. (I think it was in the correct order, but drawings in the Green Bible weren't exactly clear on how to replace the weights.)

- Changed the spark plugs (AC Delco 45XLS). Set the plug gap to between .75 and .80, so should be okay?

- Replaced the plug wires after I took them out. This may be the problem. Didn't pay attention to the order, so not sure if they were replaced in the correct order, and the Green Bible ain't helping me here, and neither is Google.

- Took the top off the Carburetor (Rochester Model B) simply out of curiosity (couldn't help myself, have a 4 day weekend). I couldn't really check the float level because i don't have a gauge to do that. Looked okay to me. Replaced it and attempted to start it up...fuel sprayed from the carburetor. Wasn't tight enough and I wasn't real clear on how to replace the gasket. Figured out you have to remove the various bits of hardware to do that, but only after I slightly tore the last one I have. Didn't use any hylomar to help with the seal, but not sure if you can do that on the carburetor? Still some drops of fuel leaking, but can't figure out if that's due to the seal or the fuel union.

- Not really sure if the levers on the side of the carburetor are correct, hence the photos.

Currently, not running, but probably nothing major, just some gremlin I can't seem to work out.

Little Pooter is being a mean SOB this week.

[busboy]

You can tell if you have the plug leads on in the correct place. Remove #1 spark plug and rotate the engine with the hand crank slowly bring #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke, you can tell it's the compression stroke by placing you thumb/finger lightly over the spark plug hole and you will feel the pressure releasing. The rotor will be at the #1 position so that lead goes to #1 and the rest follow. Next check your point gap and make sure they are tight, it's crucial that the gap is set correctly. Make sure all the wires are attached to the coil and if you stick the #1 plug on the end of the lead and let it touch the engine you should see a spark at the plug when you crank the engine. If there is a spark reinstall the plug and remove the air intake from the carb. I keep a small squirt bottle that I can fill with gas and a little squirt down the intake of the carb and a crank should start the engine. If it still won't start make sure you have fresh gas. As was already mentioned the engine needs fuel air and ignition at the right moment. You gave it fuel from the squirt bottle, with the air intake removed it is getting air down the carb and you proved it has a spark and compression. Now I did once see where the vacuum advance inside the distributor had broken and jammed the distributor in such a way that the spark was in the wrong place. Look at the vacuum advance where it attaches to the plate under the cap and make sure the attachment is not all bunched up. You could hook up a timing light to #1 plug lead but not everyone has one available to them. Those steps are easy to do and can be done by the side of the road with basic tools.

[busboy]

We posted at the same time, your plug gap should be .030 inch your gap is way too large and that is the problem, points should be .014 to .016 inch.

[fbnksrover]

I should have been more clear. I used the mm (.75 to .80) to set plug gap. I think it is correct, but wasn't real sure what "slight drag" meant from the book. I'm not so sure the point gap is set correctly. I couldn't quite figure it out from the book. I could not figure out how to slacken the gap. All I did was press the side of it to open it up, but then it would spring back. It was the only way I could get the feeler gauge in there. What's the magic trick I'm missing?

[busboy]

To decrease the plug gap very lightly tap the end of the plug on a hard surface to close the gap, it doesn't take much, and to open it I use a feeler gauge and wiggle it open slightly. The gap is correct when the right size feeler will just go in with a slight interference/drag.

[busboy]

Ah sorry you wanted the trick to setting the points and that does sound like you problem. They are critical. I have only ever seen adjustable points but I do believe there are set NON adjustable points available nowadays. To adjust points, key must be OFF and 4th gear selected with the distributor cap off. Rock the vehicle until the points come up on one of the 4 corners of the square cam, if you go too far you can go backwards but then come back forwards again to the set position. This is where the points are set .014 to .016 inch, by loosening the hold down screw with a flat blade screwdriver then use the same flat blade to insert into the notch to slide the points more open or closed. It is difficult to do especially if there is play in the distributor shaft. After you have it set tighten and recheck. It is also important that you inspect the contact surface of the points, they should be smooth as they pit from use and you cannot get them set if there is a large pit mark. They can be filed smooth with a point file or small smooth file. Excessive pitting is caused by a bad condenser, I always replace both when changing points.

[busboy]

One other thing make sure the spring loaded carbon brush is still in the center of the distributor cap and is free to move in and out.