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Thread: And the Saga Continues...the Muffler

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Manassas, VA
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    41

    Default And the Saga Continues...the Muffler

    Okay, so as you can see from the photos, my muffler has split. I have no idea how that happened, but there it is. I am assuming that I need a new muffler with tailpipe assembly? Do I need any other pipes? How about the bracket(s)? Tail pipe hangers? It looks like the PO welded the pipes to some type of hanger. Any advice on that? Is this a do it yourself job, or do I need to drive it to the garage?

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    These brackets don't look like the ones in the green book. The pipe from the left hand driver's side does not look like it's attached the way the green book illustrates. What am I about to get myself into?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

    Default

    None of that looks stock. What needs replacing depends on your mechanical ability and your willingness to search for parts that will work. If all the pipes are good leading up to the muffler then just look for a muffler that will fit in that space and make it work. Otherwise, you're probably better off just putting in a new system front to back.

    Or just take it to a shop....
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    You can pay for all the hangers, rubber straps, nuts and bolts as well as the pipes and muffler and it will end up costing you a day's work at least. Or, you can go to a local shop and have a stainless steel system made for roughly the same money.
    In my humble opinion the original Rover exhaust is shyte.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
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    3,435

    Default

    Before you have this happen to the new exhaust components, you might want to check to make sure your fuel/air mixture and valve & ignition timing are acceptable and that there are no exhaust leaks upstream. Your muffler has the classic appearance of being blown apart by a backfire through the exhaust system.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    killingworth CT
    Posts
    836

    Default

    I agree that that silencer has blown up because of built up exhaust gases in the can. If you are not familiar with setting the carb and timing have a qualified mechanic set it up before you fix your exhaust system. And I do agree that look less than stock, or oem parts, which is not a problem I have seen more homemade or muffler shop made systems on series trucks, not a big deal. Did you hear a large bang when driving it?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
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    1,796

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SafeAirOne View Post
    Your muffler has the classic appearance of being blown apart by a backfire through the exhaust system.
    Or the old banana in the tailpipe trick....
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SafeAirOne View Post
    Your muffler has the classic appearance of being blown apart by a backfire through the exhaust system.
    What a great opportunity to see an exploded view of a muffler's inner workings!
    ____________________________
    1959 Series II 88"
    "Grover"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
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    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by I Leak Oil View Post
    Or the old banana in the tailpipe trick....
    ...a classic!
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Manassas, VA
    Posts
    41

    Default

    I just went through the nutroll of replacing the distributor, spark plugs, wires, and setting the timing. I think the blow out was due to the initial failed attempts at resetting all of that, I just never noticed. I think I'm probably going to replace the entire system with a stock system. Any advice on Pro Line versus original parts? Also, where would I find instructions on replacing the exhaust system? Doesn't look too difficult, but that's the rookie in me talking.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Posts
    889

    Default

    If you can undo nuts, you can replace an exhaust system. there is nothing more than remove and replace. Get some PB Blaster and start spraying the studs on the exhaust manifold flange, buy some brass nuts to replace what you have on there when you reassemble the new exhaust, and use neversieze on the rest of the bolts as they hold up the hangers on the new system. Nothing to it.
    Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

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