Oil Pressure

[Jim-ME]

I know the oil presure specs for a 2.25 Rover engine should be between 45 and 65 lbs @ 2000 rpms. What should a healthy engine read at idle? I am running 10W40 Valvoline for engines with more than 75,000 miles and my oil pressure reads 10 to 15 lbs at idle. Should I start to be concerned about engine health? Would it help to change to Castrol 20W50? Also, my mechanical gauge is currently hooked up to the oil filter assembly via a banjo and adapter where the oil warning light sender screws in and I've often wondered if I'm getting a true reading. Is there a "better" place to tie into? Thanks in advance,
Jim

[jp-]

A good question.

I too have my oil gauge tied into a banjo fitting on the 88". The 109" is a bit different. On the 109", my gauge drops to around 20-30 lbs. at idle. The longer at idle, the lower it goes. If left idling it usually will get no lower than 20. This is on the 2.6l six.

On the 88", I put in an oil pressure gauge off a tractor, it has no numbers, just yellow, green, and red. Yellow is labeled "low idle", green is "normal", and of course red is "high". I like this gauge, even though it doesn't have numbers. It usually never falls below midway on the yellow. If I had to guess, I'd say that that would also be around 20lbs.

If the engine doesn't make any knocking sounds when accelerating from low idle, I would think that you would be ok. Although, 10 does sound a little low. A thicker oil will help, but it could also be air in the oil gauge line. You can bleed the line by loosening the nut on the back of the gauge slightly while the engine is running.

I use 15w-40 in both engines.

[Jeff Aronson]

Jim,

I have the same style oil pressure/water temp gauge as you. Sometimes mine needs a "tap" to get the needle to move up [particularly when cold] but generally speaking, this is the more accurate gauge.

When my engine is cold, oil pressure at start up is 40 and it goes right to 60 under load until it warms up. Once there, the idle pressure is closer to 20, and I keep the idle speed quite low by choice.

When the gauge dips under heavy braking, or the oil warning light comes on for a moment under heavy braking, then I know it's time to either add a quart of oil or look up the mileage since the last oil change.

I run 10 -40w oil this time of year, 10-30 in the winter. Many owners chose 15-40w "diesel" oil or 20-50w oil for their engines. Remember that 20-50w wasn't even available when the cars were designed.

Oil pressure that seems to leap about, even when the oil is clean, is usually a sign of bearing wear.

Enjoy your Rover,

Jeff

[daveb]

hi jim

if you are really concerned you can try another guage, if you have one laying around. in any case, rule of thumb is minimum 10psi for every 1000rpm.

i'd be much more concenred with the higher rpm pressure figures, but the idel numbers are usually where you start to notice a problem. everything that jeff says is good advice too.

rgrds
dave in dc

I know the oil presure specs for a 2.25 Rover engine should be between 45 and 65 lbs @ 2000 rpms. What should a healthy engine read at idle? I am running 10W40 Valvoline for engines with more than 75,000 miles and my oil pressure reads 10 to 15 lbs at idle. Should I start to be concerned about engine health? Would it help to change to Castrol 20W50? Also, my mechanical gauge is currently hooked up to the oil filter assembly via a banjo and adapter where the oil warning light sender screws in and I've often wondered if I'm getting a true reading. Is there a "better" place to tie into? Thanks in advance,
Jim

[jp-]

everything that jeff says is good advice too.

Sometimes I wonder why I'm really here?
I guess I'm just not good enough, huh Dave???

[Jim-ME]

Thanks to all that replied. I never questioned accurracy of the gauge as it is brand new, but I have noticed that especially in 80 degree weather the idle pressure has dropped. I'm not as concerned about engine health after reading the replies but would like to know where I can find or which manufacturer makes 15W40 oil. I feel that 20W50 is to heavy. As I plan to have a 2.5L diesel installed down the road I just want to take to best care of what I have until the $ are there for the swap. Yes Jeff, I do enjoy her and am having an absolute ball!
Jim

[Chris McKnight]

Many owners chose 15-40w "diesel" oil or 20-50w oil for their engines. Remember that 20-50w wasn't even available when the cars were designed.

The green bible recommends different viscosities for different brands, but they list 20w/50 for Petrofina and 20-50 for BP, as well as 15W/50 for almost all the other listed brands. Maybe the manual has been updated.

I've always used Castrol 20W/50, simply becaused they list Castrol 15W50 but the 20W/50 is easier to find. I switch to 10W/40 for the winters now that I'm no longer living in Georgia.

It also depends on the type of climate. The SIII GB has these temperature ranges in its extreme temperature chart:

Degrees are Celsius
up to -10: 5W/20, 5W/30, 5W/40
-20 to +10: 10W/30
-20 and up: 10W/40, 10W/50
-10 and up: 15W/40, 15W/50
0 and up: 20W/40, 20W/50


Chris

[daveb]

I guess I'm just not good enough, huh Dave???

no. sorry.


just kidding.


Seriously, I just felt like jeff's comments meshed with my experience as well. so rather than repeat it I just put in a "+1'.

your comments sounded good but I never had a 6 cylinder LR, never used a tractor OP guage and never had to bleed the guage's line so I couldn't really comment. I have heard that the lower end bearings in the 2.6 should be considered a wear item and if you have any question about the oil pressure then you should change them. But like I said I never owned one, so that could just be hearsay.

Another comment, if you wait until there is bottom noise regardless of your engine type you have waited too long to address the situation, and the crank will likely need to be reground and a full rebuild in order.

My experience with the 2.25 is that the engine mains go, starting with the center one. then the rods, cam bearings and the oil pump. I was able to restore decent OP in my 88 by swapping in new mains (except for the rear) and rods and rebuilding the pump. That was with the engine in the car.

rgrds
Dave

[Jeff Aronson]

Jim,

Since I had a Rovers North rebuilt engine installed in my Rover about 10 years ago, I've not run 15-40w oil. I did so routinely in the previous engine.

I do remember that it was not available in the big box auto store [AutoZone, VIP, etc.], but NAPA, Carquest and their ilk carried it all the time under their private brand name oils.

As for the value of any advice I offer, I know that Dave B was just being kind to me. If I were really on top of Land Rover maintenance, I would not be able to write as many "Lite Break" stories as I've done . Dave has witnessed my off road driving and repair capabilities at East Coast events; I'm as inept as a talentless contenstant on American Idol!

Jeff

[daveb]

Yikes! Since I agreed with you I guess that puts me in the same boat. Somewhere I have video of Jeff driving off road. He does just fine!

No footage of Jeff doing repairs though

Jeff I thought your "reality show" experience was limited to "Pimp My Rover"

I read your LB stories before I ever even owned a LR. You probably have more Series LR miles under your belt than most of us.

cheers
Dave

As for the value of any advice I offer, I know that Dave B was just being kind to me. If I were really on top of Land Rover maintenance, I would not be able to write as many "Lite Break" stories as I've done . Dave has witnessed my off road driving and repair capabilities at East Coast events; I'm as inept as a talentless contenstant on American Idol!

Jeff