Oil Pressure

[luckyjoe]

Actually, 20W50 is closer to what would have been used in 1960 (and a better choice for 2.25l) than light multi-grade oils such as 10W30/10W40.

Your motor will thank you...

Tom P.

[jcasteel]

Could someone post a picture of this banjo fitting and oil pressure guage? Maybe relative part numbers or thread sizes if I'm able to pick up the parts from the local plumbing store. I'm looking for a cheap way to monitor oil pressure and water temperature until I can upgrade to a Smiths dual guage.

[luckyjoe]

John,

Here is an earlier thread where LR part numbers were discussed:

http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187

Regards,

Tom P.

[yorker]

15w40 is available everywhere now- it is a VERY common diesel oil and since diesel engines often require a LOT of oil the 15w40 often comes in gallon or larger containers which I find very convenient. I use Shell Rotella but there are others out there that are good too.




More than you ever wanted to know about motor oil:
http://www.off-road.com/RoverWeb/OilFAQ.html

Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.

Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job.

there is a more updated version of this document here:
http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

[JimCT]

We are running 0W-40 Mobil One in our '68 ambulance/camper. Starts in the dead of winter like it is 70 outside. Good for the heat of summer too. I get almost instant oil pressure, even during the coldest days in winter. Good flow through the oil cooler too. An when you pull off the valve cover to set the valves it looks like new. Jim

[TedW]

It is my understanding that synthetic oils can have a wider spread in viscosity without the risk of thermal breakdown of the polymers described above. I believe that this is because they are simply more stable throughout any given temperature range.
I have a new engine (under 3000 mi. so far) and plan to run synthetic(probably 5w40 Castrol Syntec) when I hit 3k. My mechanic (I believe everything he tells me) says to break the engine in on the "dino juice" (regular oil).
A change I strongly recommend is synthetic gear oil. A huge change in performance was my experience after making the switch.
One very cold night during a winter in the early 90's I left a bottle of synthetic gear lube (Amsoil, I think - available from our hosts!) and a bottle of standard 90w hypoy out on the porch. It hit -20F that morning. The regular gear oil came out of the bottle like it was rubber cement, but the synthetic seemed little different than when it was warm. I will never run regular hypoy again.
The only problem: It leaks out faster!
I would very much like to hear other opinions about synthetic versus regular oils, especially if you have read of negatives regarding synthetics.

[LRBear]

The only 2 problems w Synthetic that I'm aware of are:

-the higher cost. (Although this can be offset by the ability to extend your oil change intervals.) AND this isn't as bad of a cost delta for the do-it-yourself job as it is for the Jiffy-Lube job.

-the uncanny ability of synthetics to find even the smallest leak path. (Although this probably also indicates an increased ability to lubricate even the "tight spots".)

In general an older engine might not be a good candidate for synthetic simply because of all of the "new" leaks you'll discover. But a newer engine will reap all of the benefits AND last much longer! (Still, I'd go ahead and try it in an "older" engine, then determine if the "new" leaks are significant...)

Yes, most mechanics will recommend that you use the "dinosaur-oil" for an new engine break in.

-Bear-

[TSR53]

...The only problem: It leaks out faster!...

Land Rover has always been ahead of the times. That's the built-in Land Rover GPS system! Follow the trail... so at least you know how to get back home.

[luckyjoe]

Ted,

I see the increased cost of synthetics as an burden for a Series used off-road. It's much more expensive to change the fluids after significant water crossings, so I doubt I'd ever really see the advantage of extended change intervals. I'd gladly welcome the synthetic advatages, but in a Series I'm not sold.

I run Mobil Delvac1 5W40 in my VW Tdi and it is a fantastic oil. It's full synthetic from group 3 base stocks. If you are looking for a 5W40 full synth, then I would look no further than this oil. I've run it in a high mileage D1 4.0L as well and no increase in leaks.

Tom P.

[TedW]

Tom,
I agree with your point on cost vs. benefit, especially if you are doing water crossings on a regular basis and change fluids frequently. I find Synthetics to be preferable because of the temperature swings up here and because (as I understand it) they just run cooler and do a better job of lubricating and preventing wear. I do not extend my changes - every 3k for me. I do think that synthetics are a no-brainer for everyone with a Fairey overdrive with its small oil capacity.
You are right about the Delvac. Great stuff. I actually have a stock of VW/Audi spec 5w40 Castrol Syntec (from Belgium! Smells like good beer!) that I plan to run. Also group 3 base stocks, if I remember correctly.
Some people go nuts about oil. Castrol has a 0w30 Syntec that was green and smelled like gummy bears (still might). Supposedly the elixir of youth for the Audi 1.8T engine. People on the Audiworld site were hoarding it, and sending messages about which Autozone stores had it in stock. They would even post pics of their garage walls lined with bottles of the stuff. The conversation got to the point where people were comparing lot numbers printed on the bottles. Must not have any kids or aging parents!