Introduction and some general questions.

**copedog** · 10-07-2013, 09:27 PM

Hi All,

New member here. New to LRs as well.

I have run across a 65 IIa for sale locally and I have spent a good bit of time researching here the last few days. I would like to get conformation on what I have learned and also ask a few questions after I go see the truck in person tomorrow.

I will be using the truck on my ranch 90% of the time as a run around vehicle. This task I'm sure it will handle fine.

The other 10% I would like to flat tow (4 wheels down) behind my motorhome for trips out west. In researching here it seems that the Series Rovers can handle this multiple ways. I have read that it is OK to just to put the transfer case in neutral, tranny in 4th and go. Lots of stuff spinning and probably not the best option. Secondly, these LRs have full floating axles BOTH front and rear. This means that I can put locking hubs on all 4 wheels and roll with them unlocked and nothing spins. I did read a little about possible wheel bearing issues for log hauls this way. Some guys pack the bearings for an extra measure of security. Lastly, guys even pull the half axles and go. My preference would be to put on hubs only when I'm taking a trip and use the flanges when at home.

So, am I on the right track?? Anyone done this behind an RV?? Are hubs hard to find?? How can I ID the axles that are on it???

This truck looks like it has replacement fenders (wings) as they have headlights and turn signals along with headlights inboard (on the breakfast?). My guess is that somewhere along the line newer model fenders were added. Should this raise any flags?? What else can I check to make sure its not a franken monster????

I'll take lots of pics and post them after I see it.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

**rwollschlager** · 10-07-2013, 10:41 PM

as far as towing, you are in the right track! you have to engage the transmission in 4th so that it lubricates everything in there. The locking hubs are the safest way to go, in case your truck pops out of gear while flat towing. You should not have any wheel bearing issues flat towing with the two sets of locking hubs so long as you're on top of your lubrication (like with any trailer).

You should have the standard rover 10 spline axles, which would need the Warn M-11 type hubs (arguable the best available) or most other 10 spline hub will do. I don't believe there would be a huge benefit to keep swapping between hubs and flanges, except to save wear on the hubs, which should not be significant anyway. To ID the axles, pop off the dome/conical (chrome at one time) cap to see the end of the axle shaft at the drive flange, count the splines, some of the later trucks had 24 spline outers, but your's is more than likely just a 10 spline.

Post pictures, thats the best way to determine if its a franken rover. The double headlight thing is pretty common, and if you have a metal dash, your truck is combination of II/IIA, plastic dash indicates series III. If your first and second gear are syncrho'd (no need to double clutch) then you have a series III transmission. There are some differences between II and III, but largely speaking they are the same animal and having a franken rover wont be that big of a deal to handle.

good luck!
-Rob

**SafeAirOne** · 10-08-2013, 07:52 AM

Speaking personally, I wouldn't bother with swapping back to solid drive flanges. Just keep the locking hubs on all 4 wheels all the time.

**copedog** · 10-08-2013, 10:31 AM

Thanks for the replys. I'm going to go look this afternoon.

**LR Max** · 10-08-2013, 12:49 PM

X2 on FWH on all four. Warns are the best but if you can't find them, superwinch makes a good pair. I've got em on my truck and they are great. Very tough and easy to engage/disengage.

As others have said, open em up and see what you've got. Then its easy to buy the right ones...the first time!

**copedog** · 10-08-2013, 07:55 PM

Alright guys,

Went to see the truck today. I did read the lrfaq.com list of what to look for before heading out, especially frame rust issues.

Frame looks sound. No issues that I could see. Light surface rust, but nothing bad.

Mechanically it needs a little work. It has not been driven much since the current owner purchased it 2+ years ago. It started but didn't run real great and we had to leave the choke on a bit in order to keep it running. Took it for a spin around the block and it was overheating by the time we got back. It definitely has no-scyncro 1st and 2nd so series II trans. Did not try 4X4 as we were only on pavement. Diffs looked fine. Hopefully someone can confirm type from the pics. Usual leaks.

Body looks good. I did take a picture of the front end with dual lights.

Interior needs work. There is no front seat, just some padded seats sitting on the "hump". The floor looks to have been covered in a foil backed sound deadener and then a carpet placed over it. I did look the floors over from the underside and they look sound so I don't think it was put in to cover up anything. There are rear jump seat frames laying in the back that need cushions. The dash consists of 2 gauges, speedo and fuel/amps. Not sure if they worked. Electrical looks like it will need some work as well. Lots of stuff cut like the wipers.

Overall the frame and body look good. Its hard to tell how deep the mechanical issues go without more digging.

I'll try to post some pics.

Comments welcome.

Thanks,
Scott