Engine Rebuild Advice 2.25L

[mrmurray]

Hello,
I recently acquired a 1967 Series IIa, 2.25 liter 88” station wagon with safari top and overdrive, 12v negative ground conversion, zenith carb, 10Si alternator. This is my first land rover, and I am really excited.

Unfortunately, the engine had low compression in #2 and #4, so I have decided to rebuild the 2.25. I want to keep this vehicle original, and have rebuilt several engines over the years (just never a rover engine).

My question is this: what updates/modifications are recommended during overhaul? What parts are ok to reuse vs. replace (e.g. lifters?).

Lastly, are there any pitfalls I should watch out for?

Thanks a ton for any advice you can share!
Mike in Portland (OR)

[LR Max]

Pull it apart and see what you've got. A lot of times the block cracks between #2 and #3 piston. If this is the case, then its a whole new ball game.

In all honest, you will be taking your block, crank, connecting rods, head, etc to a machine shop. They'll be doing the new machining for you.

For the block, I'd go ahead and bore to .030 over while you are in there. Also look at sourcing a 2.5 crank as I think they have more stroke (please correct me if wrong!).

Also look for either a 2.5 cam or get an ACR camshaft.

For the cylinder head, make sure they convert it for unleaded fuel (forgot the thing it needs for that, but its a thing, and its needed). Also look at getting the valves lapped and probably a three angle valve job as well. Then port and polish.

Shave that head. Shave it to crap. Mine is shaved so much I had to file the water pump housing by a bit so it would fit.

Replace the timing chain while you are in there. Oil pump and water pump should also be replaced.

The Lucas 45D4 dizzy with the Petronix is a solid unit. Had very little trouble out of this combo. Also procure a Rochester carb. Lastly top off the entire engine with a 2" exhaust from the manifold all the way back.

Or you can dump a 200 TDI in there for about the same price. It'll be more powerful, better MPG, and off road will bring the win with awesome torque off the line.

With all the screwing around with my engine, I could've done that. And that is what I should've done.

[east high]

Rochester B carb with manual choke. They're not all the same.

[SafeAirOne]

There's nothing special when it comes to a rebuild on this engine. Very Basic. Hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel if it doesn't already have them. I personally wouldn't bother with performance 'upgrades' per-se--It'll NEVER be a racing car engine. If I HAD to put a new camshaft it, I might use a 2.5 camshaft, but otherwise, eh.

[o2batsea]

How low is low? Would you try just pulling the pistons, giving the walls a scuff and dropping the pistons back in with a set of rings? That's less than a hundred bux fix. A rebuild is going to be in the 3-5K range all in.

[SafeAirOne]

I dunno...I did a full rebuild on a 2.5NAD and rang in right around $2k, reusing the crank and camshaft.

[o2batsea]

That's your own labor, yes? I did the old 2.25 diesel many years ago and I had the crank cleaned up, bores honed, and a bunch of stuff hot tanked. I got away with new pistons and rings, no oversize. Bearings and gaskets. All that was under 1200. I did all the work in my basement. So it was a pretty cheap rebuild all in all. I think I'd prolly be around 3 these days.
I mean, yeah, you could probably redo the engine for 2, but then would you put the old carb back on? No, you get a new one and a new diz, and maybe a new exhaust manny. Engine mounts, timing chain, clutch etc. So there's other expenses that can push the cost up. Maybe the OP would opt not to do that stuff at the time to save some dough.
I also wouldn't go right to .030 over right off the bat. You can get .010, .020, .030, and .040. I would only take off the very least necessary to clean up the bores.

As for the Tdi swap..I'd certainly take a long hard look at whether the ~4 grand to go with a 200 Tdi wouldn't be better money. There are some modifications needed, but nothing radical. It'll bolt right to the Series bell housing. You'll need mounts, and a plan for the intercooler ( You can fit one in the breakfast). A 300 Tdi manifold on the 200Tdi is a match made in heaven for a Series. All else is cake.

[I Leak Oil]

OP says he's rebuilt engines before (his labor) and no, not everything always needs to be replaced with new. You're stating hypotheticals to bolster a self fulfilling prophecy of a 4k engine refresh.

I doubt he's asking for advice if the plan is to just replace everything.

Good advice has already been given, open it and see what it needs.

[mrmurray]

Thank you for the input. I'll have my machinist determine which parts should be replaced (pistons, cam, etc.), and complete the build in my shop. I intend to re-use ancillary items after refreshing them, not so much to save money, but more to keep the vehicle as close to original as possible (minus the alternator).

My original intent was to see if there are any internal issues (design flaws) I should fix while the engine is apart (lifters, oil pump, seals, etc.)

Thanks to all for the advice!
Cheers
Mike

[TeriAnn]

Also look at sourcing a 2.5 crank as I think they have more stroke (please correct me if wrong!).

Unless he has a very late 2.25 engine his is a 3 main crank and the 2.5L crank is 5 main. They are not interchangeable.

You may just need a valve job or have a cracked head and just need a new head. Depending upon the mileage on your engine you may be able to put the complete rebuild off until another day.

If you have a 7:1 head I would replace it with a new 8:1 head. The new ones are metric so you would need a metric stud kit to go with one.

If you are going for a total rebuild, at a minimum you will need a full gasket set, new timing chain, timing gears & tensioner, new main & rod bearings (Have machine shop check your crank before ordering bearings so you know what size to order, piston rings, possibly pistons, again have the machine shop tell you what size to order, new clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing.

Mostly you take it apart & take everything to the machine shop. They can boil out the block and check everything over. They will tell you if you need pistons & what size. Once you get the list of parts that need replacing from them you can order the parts.

If you have an original distributor it is probably worn out. It never hurts to get a new one. Be sure to have the oil pump dimensions checked.

If you want to add extras, a 2.5L cam would not hurt and balancing the crank, rods, pistons & flywheel can give you a smoother idle and increase engine life. If you have a FACTORY 8:1 head you can have it shaved to 9:1. Most 7:1 heads will easily crack if you shave them that far. An unshaved 8:1 head is 3.590 inches thick. If an 8:1 head has not been cut before, 0.020 in. is close to raising the compression from 8:1 to 9:1. Before milling a head check to see how much may have been removed in the past and subtract that from the 20 thousandths needed to increase an 8:1 head by a full point over stock. If you mill the head place it on top of the block without the head gasket then see if you can run a sheet of paper between the head and the water pump. If yes you will be fine with head gasket in place and torqued down. If not you will need to grind a little metal off.

Adding the extra point compression and the 2.5L cam is the easy stuff to add a little power. You can buy new timing components, new distributor, full gasket set and clutch parts before disassembly but wait on the other stuff until the machine shop has a chance to inspect everything and tell you exactly what you need.