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Thread: 200tdi swap

  1. #1

    Default 200tdi swap

    Ok need some advice.

    Doing a 200tdi swap into a Series IIa (left hand drive). I want to put a new galvanized chassis under it with the leaf sprung suspension. I don't want to have to cut into or weld my new chassis. I need to add power steering.

    Keeping this all in mind what trans and t-case and axles can I get away with? LT77/LT230? What can handle the power?

    Who makes a chassis that will work with this all? Anything I am forgetting?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    canada bc
    Posts
    47

    Default

    hi do you have a high mount turbo on this? I have seen several 2A handle the power of a chevy 250,292 and ford 302 with stock trany t-case and axles, but i think most people will say that is pushing it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    I have one of Iain's chassis. It's a coil sprung 109 chassis but it is very well done. Be sure that you are very specific with your measurements and specifications. Once it's dipped it's kind of a pain to change things, as you must grind off the zinc coating to weld.
    Your best combination is the 200 Tdi with the Ashcroft "stumpy" R380, and LT230 1.2 transfer case. You'll have to modify the seat box to take the R380 tunnel cover, and there will be about 3/4 of an inch that needs to be rectified between the R380 tunnel cover and the Series hump cover plate thing. No mods needed to the bulkhead.
    You'll also have to figure out how to plumb the radiator and intercooler. I would suggest that you use a P38 steering box so that the guts are outboard of the frame rail. The Defender/D1/RRC steering box requires a LOT of rerouting of stuff, and won't let the full width rad/intercooler assembly fit properly.
    One other thing that will prevent gray hair is to get a 300 turbo manifold. This tucks the turbo up and out of the way, allows you to use a stock down pipe and a whole bunch of other benefits. You will have to order the feed and drain pipes.
    For the steering, I welded a VW sand buggy splined shaft onto the end of the Series steering shaft. Kept the Series steering tube and made a bearing bracket that the shaft tube bolts on. U joint shaft is from D2. Or you can adapt a defender steering column. That's prolly easier but the Series wheel won't fit. Maybe you can figure a way to converge the Series shaft with the defender shaft.
    Anyway, good luck. It's a pretty big project.

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