Repairing holes in body panels

[o2batsea]

That or Muggyweld.com. The holes are more or less cosmetic, yes? If so you can fill them with the low heat solder stuff.

[SafeAirOne]

That or Muggyweld.com. The holes are more or less cosmetic, yes? If so you can fill them with the low heat solder stuff.

I've found that on test sections of birmabright, the thin sheet still still suffers heat deformation with the amount of heat that has to be applied to use that stuff, though I may not have been doing it right, either.

Has anyone else used that product on a Rover skin? Any Success?:

http://www.muggyweld.com/

Harbor Freight sells it and I a box of the HF variant, but haven't ever gotten around to trying it.

[I Leak Oil]

I've leaded (tinning these days) traditional steel panels before but I wonder how it would work on birmabright? Anyone done it?

[o2batsea]

The low temp stuff works OK and it doesn't warp the panels when you apply heat sufficient to melt the stuff. Cleanliness is the key. use your dremel to grind out all the grunge from the rotten holes or else the stuff won't stick. melt in enough so that it is a little above the surface so you can grind/sand it back flat. Pretty simple.

[SafeAirOne]

The low temp stuff works OK and it doesn't warp the panels when you apply heat sufficient to melt the stuff. Cleanliness is the key. use your dremel to grind out all the grunge from the rotten holes or else the stuff won't stick. melt in enough so that it is a little above the surface so you can grind/sand it back flat. Pretty simple.

Yeah. This thread has motivated me to try the stuff to fix a 3 inch tear in my driver's door skin at the handle hole. If I can get a few free minutes, I'll do it and post the results here.

If it works decently, it may be just the thing to solve the OP's problem, though I don't know how it'll work in the vertical position (at least I can take my door off and do it flat!).

[o2batsea]

it'll work vertical. It doesn't melt like runny, more like mayo.

[jac04]

There are a lot of automotive panel bonding adhesives available, as well as epoxies. Unless it is a real high-end restoration, I would make a nice aluminum patch, and bond it (and rivet if desired) in place. DIY and functional. A step above this would be to do something like what Mark recommended in post #2 - a flush bonded & riveted patch.

For reference, Eastwood has a 'kit' available to make flush bonded & riveted repairs:
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-p...epair-kit.html

[o2batsea]

Here's my take on rivet patches:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...514#post465514