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Thread: Swivel ball service

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  1. #1

    Default Swivel ball service

    Hello. First off, thanks a ton for all the info provided on this forum!

    It seems my swivel balls have pitting and should be replaced (as evidenced by the significant amounts of oil leaking out of the swivel ball wiper-seals)

    What other parts (besides the swivel balls and wiper-seals) should I replace while performing this service?

    Also, what fluid/grease should I put into the swivel ball housings when the service is complete?

    Thanks again!
    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    The South
    Posts
    127

    Default

    If I were going to the trouble of replacing the swivel balls I'd look at replacing just about everything while I was in there.

    - Railco Bushings
    - Oil Seals, SPH seals and since the hub will be apart too you should replace the hub oil seals as well.
    - I'd look at all the bearings (Half Shaft Bearing and the SPH Bearing and race). If they are worn, replace them.......Hub Too.

    I use 90W Gear oil in mine.........if you do the above you won't have any more leaks.
    1969 IIA - Tan
    1969 IIA - Blue

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Lincolnville, Maine
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I'm a high school shop teacher whose got his kids working on just this approach--replace everything. Just when I thought we had it all taken apart ...

    When replacing the bearing for the half shaft how do you remove the bearing inner race? If I'm looking at the Haines manual I see "distance piece for bearing" and a "retaining collar for bearing". My current method is to go after it with PB Blaster and use a cold chisel on the "distance bearing" since it is flanged. I've inserted a detailed picture of what I'm talking about, (along with a 'proud parent' picture of all the parts the kids have spread across the shop).

    Thanks,
    Steve

    Quote Originally Posted by Contractor View Post
    If I were going to the trouble of replacing the swivel balls I'd look at replacing just about everything while I was in there.

    - Railco Bushings
    - Oil Seals, SPH seals and since the hub will be apart too you should replace the hub oil seals as well.
    - I'd look at all the bearings (Half Shaft Bearing and the SPH Bearing and race). If they are worn, replace them.......Hub Too.

    I use 90W Gear oil in mine.........if you do the above you won't have any more leaks.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

    Default

    It should come off pretty easily if you can get a bearing seperator behind the shoulder of the distance piece and use a press or you're prefered method of removal. The retaining collar and distance piece get reused (i.e. don't come with the new bearing) so I wouldn't suggest using the cold chisel method unless you want to replace them. Use of heat has been known to help as well.
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    The South
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by I Leak Oil View Post
    It should come off pretty easily if you can get a bearing seperator behind the shoulder of the distance piece and use a press or you're prefered method of removal. The retaining collar and distance piece get reused (i.e. don't come with the new bearing) so I wouldn't suggest using the cold chisel method unless you want to replace them. Use of heat has been known to help as well.
    Good advice here.

    I took mine over to my local Napa and they have a full blown machine shop. They used a press to remove them and it cost me like $10 bucks or something.

    Mine were in bad shape so I ended up replacing them and I tried to re-install myself. I put both pieces in the freezer for a couple of days and then heated the half shaft with a torch.......after it's nice and hot you can try and drop them on and use a wooden dowel or something if you need to seat them further. I could not make this work and ended up taking it back to Napa for another $10 bucks where they used a press and were done in a matter of minutes (other folks have obviously been successful with the hot/cold method)

    Anyway, good luck.......what a cool shop project!
    1969 IIA - Tan
    1969 IIA - Blue

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

    Default

    Ah ha! You needed to heat the retainer et al to expand them and freeze the shaft to shrink it! And then work really quickly!
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Lincolnville, Maine
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I think the machine shop will have to be the way to go. I've tried the bearing separator without luck. I also dropped into East Coast Rovers just down the road and got the advice to heat it up and ... "it should come off pretty easily". Well, it's not with oxy-acetylene, so before I do some damage I'll check in with a professional.

    And yes, it's a great experience for my kids, many of whom have never had grease under their nails.

    Steve

    Quote Originally Posted by Contractor View Post
    they have a full blown machine shop. They used a press to remove them and it cost me like $10 bucks or something.

    Anyway, good luck.......what a cool shop project!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,020

    Default

    One way is to die grind the retainer off. Looking at the surface of the bearing, replacing it would be advisable.
    We offer this kit :-

    http://www.roversnorth.com/Products.aspx?gsearch=plk029

    This works for 1 side and covers just about all for the upper swivel pin.
    Les Parker
    Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
    Rovers North Inc.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    172

    Default

    If this is a first time for you I definitely recommend these videos...here is part 1 removal...part 2 for reinstall will come up.

    They are awesome.

    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s2id4_VcJ54
    1963 Series IIa 109" 5 door Safari top (SOLD to new home)
    1971 Series IIa 88" Soft top (SOLD to new home)
    1995 RRC - LWB
    2001 Discovery II SE7 (SOLD to new home)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    Railco bush. Top and bottom pins. Bottom bearing, hub seals, distance piece and hub bearings. Axle u joints. Half shaft bearing. Inner axle shaft seal. Fill with EP00 Moly grease. Our hosts sell it in pre measured tubes (One shot grease). Or use hypoid 140 oil.
    Oh and order new nut lockers too.

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