Delco Alternator question

[NC_Mule]

ok, I've read all 4 pages that come up when you search "alternator" and the Madmax pages. I'm about to install a one wire Delco 10si 60ish amps.
I'm going to follow the wiring diagram below and remove the VR.
My question is, if I take the hot lead from the alternator to the hot side of the started lug, then at that same point run a wire to the hot side of the fuse box....will I be introducing the full amperage into the wiring harness? May be amps don't flow the way I'm thinking and someone can explain why a potential 60 amps coming in at the starter lug will not also pass through to the fuse box when I run that connecting wire.
Thanks pb

edit: I understand that the alternator only puts out what's needed but what if it ramps up to close to max amp output?

[I Leak Oil]

It will only flow 60 amps through that part of the harness if something down stream is drawing 60 amps. Think of it as water in the pipes in your home. Amperage is the flow of the water. Higher amps = more flow. Shut the faucet off and there is no flow = no amps. Voltage is the pressure behind the flow. Shut the faucet off and you still have pressure = voltage. Just an easy way of thinking about basic DC electrics.

[NC_Mule]

Thank you so much. That was the info I was missing. Now I can proceed with confidence. I trusted the diagram I just didn't have full understanding in my head.

[NC_Mule]

OK, so I was gone for 10 days and had to halt progress on this conversion.
Back at it today.
Using the wiring diagram below as my guide.
I have my + from the Alt going to the hot side of my starter solenoid. (per diagram)
I then have a hot all the time wire running from the same side of the starter solenoid that the Alt is connected to running to the hot side of fuse (31) per diagram
My questions is this:
Do you see any issues with just hooking the two wires that I had connected to A1 of the regulator together?
One wire gets it connected to (31, hot all the time) the other wire goes to the ignition switch. Now that the ignition switch is powered it is able to feed the top half of the fuse box (32)
I just did it and everything works(headlights, heater, wipers,lights) and the truck started. I just want someone with more electrical knowledge to think about what I did and confirm that I'm not going burn anything up. Am I over loading the ignition switch?
As far as I can tell the diagram below has a the Alt powering the top half of the fuse box (32)

The wires that were attached to (A) at the regulator are capped and disconnected from the vehicle.

Thanks pb

[SafeAirOne]

Do you see any issues with just hooking the two wires that I had connected to A1 of the regulator together?

No. It accomplishes the same thing as having the one wire going from the ignition switch terminal #1 to the always-hot side of the fuse panel, just make sure the connection is insulated and secured (I'm presuming you've eliminated the external regulator completely).

Am I over loading the ignition switch?

No.

[NC_Mule]

[QUOTE=SafeAirOne;98782]No. It accomplishes the same thing as having the one wire going from the ignition switch terminal #1 to the always-hot side of the fuse panel, just make sure the connection is insulated and secured (I'm presuming you've eliminated the external regulator completely).

Yes, VR is gone. Ok cool, I'll go make a insulated final connection.
A few more things to finish my Alt bracket, measure for a belt and I will be finished. I'll post some pics when everything is completed. The bottom mount required fabrication so I figured if I'm going to be making a new bracket I'd rather stand up then lay on my back so I ended up mounting the Alt up high.

As always thanks for the info.

pb

[NC_Mule]

It's alive!
Fitted my belt yesterday and after 2 days of testing I'm ready to put this project behind me. I'm patting my self on the back for completing my first design and welding project. Homemade bracket fits perfect and pulleys align nicely. I used 3/16x3/4 flat stock and had my final bracket and welds inspected my a fab buddy of mine. He approved and said it will hold up just fine. I need a little bit longer top bracket. I didn't make it, it's off a 1930 Model A. If it were a little longer I could rotate the alternator further from the header. When I pull the trigger on a plasma cutter I'll make a longer one. Forgot to take a pic of the final bracket but the pic of it clamped together for tack weldind pretty much shows what it looks like.
Per the Madmax page you really don't know what output alternator you are going to actually receive because all the parts are mixed up during the rebuild. I ordered a 63amp but the test sheet said it rated at 87. I also learned that they seem to be 1 wire/3 wire universal. One of my pics is of a black plug on the alternator. That's actually a jumper plug. Keep that in and it's a one wire, pop it out and install the wire harness and it's a three wire. Down the road when I have high use items like heated seats and/or winch I'll make it a three wire for better current sensing. For now my stock rover is fine with the sensor jumped.

Thanks for every ones help, it's nice to have it back on the road.

pb

**having trouble loading pics my normal way. Will try again later.