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Thread: Shifting?

  1. #1

    Default Shifting?

    OK, so I get to drive the truck so little that I can't tell if I'm doing something wrong all of a sudden, or if there is something wrong with the clutch.

    First: should the clutch be either ON or OFF with no play? If I try to bring the clutch out slowly, as in when backing up or starting slow on a hill or whatever, I get nothing, nothing, nothing, POP, it's in 100%. New master.

    Second: How the hell do you shift down from 3rd to 2nd? I don't ever remember having trouble with this process, but since getting the truck back on the road again, I just can't do it. I've been trying to practice, but no matter what I do, I'm basically destroying the transmission.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Providence, RI
    Posts
    455

    Default

    That doesn't sound right at all. There should be a feathering of clutch. Downshifting shouldn't be an issue.... Something is amiss.
    _________________________________________
    1986 3.5l 110 SW Austrian Feurwehr

  3. #3

    Default

    Dang..... New clutch master. I was afraid of this. Seems like everything I do for the truck has to be done twice.

    New clutch and master. New dual brake system. New used engine. All of them failing.

    By the way, my method for shifting down is:
    1. Slow
    2. Clutch in
    3. 3rd to N
    4. Clutch out
    5. Bit of a rev
    6. Clutch in
    7. N to 2nd
    8. Clutch to drive as normal

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Banner Elk NC
    Posts
    222

    Default

    Yeah, that looks like the right sequence to me. I feel like it's a pretty small window to slide in to 2nd from 3rd in a perfect smooth motion, sometime I get a little grab and other times I feel like I did everything perfect and grind the hell out of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by rbbailey View Post
    Dang..... New clutch master. I was afraid of this. Seems like everything I do for the truck has to be done twice.

    New clutch and master. New dual brake system. New used engine. All of them failing.

    By the way, my method for shifting down is:
    1. Slow
    2. Clutch in
    3. 3rd to N
    4. Clutch out
    5. Bit of a rev
    6. Clutch in
    7. N to 2nd
    8. Clutch to drive as normal

  5. #5

    Default

    The trick falls between steps 5 & 7 above. Road speed is also important as it dictates your required rev's (step 5). In step 7, when the rev's match and you have ever so slight pressure on the shift lever, you WILL feel a point of low (no) resistance - a void when the lever is almost pulled into 2nd - exactly what you want and a very satisfying feeling.
    Tom P.
    1965 exMoD 109
    1995 RRC LWB w/EAS

  6. #6

    Default

    I know what you mean about the sweet spot when putting some pressure on the stick into 2nd gear. So it seems that I am doing it right, but.... I don't think I'm THAT bad at it. Could a clutch master issue cause problems with this downshift?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Banner Elk NC
    Posts
    222

    Default

    I would say no if you don't have any problems upshifting. Earlier in the post you mention a "off/on" type feeling with the clutch. Have you check the specs at the slave? The manual describes some measurements and adjustments.

    Quote Originally Posted by rbbailey View Post
    I know what you mean about the sweet spot when putting some pressure on the stick into 2nd gear. So it seems that I am doing it right, but.... I don't think I'm THAT bad at it. Could a clutch master issue cause problems with this downshift?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    If, while you are releasing the clutch pedal (engaging the clutch), you come to a point where you have no pushback through the pedal, except from the return springs above the pedal, then suddenly a "bang!" and you have lots of pushback and you get whiplash from the clutch suddenly engaging, then I'd say there's a problem.

    MC or slave piston getting hung up in the cylinder bore would be my guess. This has happened to me before, (on a 3-week new cylinder) to the extent that I had to work the pedal to get the piston to come back out every time. Can't remember whether it was brakes or clutch...

    Needless to say, the cylinder got returned to the seller and replaced lickety-split.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  9. #9

    Default

    That sounds like what is happening, but not as extreme. Maybe it's starting to go that direction.

    I did take it for a drive tonight, and specifically went places where I could practice the shifting to see if I could get it to work the way I remember it working. I think I got a bit better, but the clutch pedal itself still seems to be iffy. I'll be taking it in on Monday or Tuesday. Now that the thing is up and running, I just want to get it tweaked by a pro so I will know what it is supposed to be like.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cape Charles, VA
    Posts
    65

    Default

    I think in your eight step downshifting senario, you need to switch #5 and #6. It's the reving of the layshaft that lets the gear change (maybe not the right explanation). Anyway, having just replaced a master and slave and not liking the initial results, I can only suggest to follow the GB and get ALL the pedal and shaft measurements/adjustments correct. My clutch engages/disengages up near the top of the pedal travel unlike it's previous condition, but it works and now I'm used to it.

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